WSWS perpetual grow

Wow look at them sexy bitches props bro they look magnificent. How much you reckoning before harvest on that older lady


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Larger than you expected huh? Thats good news though ladies loom Great! Are you on your flush cycle now?

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Looks fire dude


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Beauty


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Awesome man that's a sight to be proud of ! props to you


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What leds do you use again???


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Looking good man. I have noticed that compared to other lights if you get slightly low on nitro near harvest the platinums will purple the crap out of the plant. I can make almost any plant I grow get purple at the end if I want.

At this point I wouldn't do much. You're probably only a week or two from chop? Kinda too late to increase nitro. Just remember next crop that the plants point of highest nitrogen consumption in it's whole life is in the late part of the stretch when it's building all that new tissue known as buds. Creating plant tissue requires nitrogen that's why it's so important in veg. I start out with a certain amount of nitrogen in veg and it goes up about 1.5-2ml's/gallon in flower depending on the plant and what it seems to need. Some strains are heavy feeders and eat twice as much food as others.

Depending on the length of the flower time I will taper nitro back around the last two weeks before harvest. Usually near week 7. If you do early to mid flower slight bump in nitrogen next crop you'll notice the plant staying greener and healthier longer into flower which helps make larger colas in the end. My production went way up when I started feeding more nitro longer into the flower cycle.

Just be careful and watch for it getting too dark.

 

That sounds like enough stuff to me. You want to avoid any clawing. That's from nitro toxicity and will damage your yield and growth rate. You just want to give it the right amount so it doesn't go deficient. No matter what some of the bottom leaves will yellow and fall off in flower. It's when they yellow towards the middle and top that you know you need more nitro. Part of becoming a good grower is just learning to recognize what the plant is telling you it wants. I can easily look at any of my plants and tell if they want more or less nitro.

Plant posture is part of that language. The reaching you talked about earlier is what a plant does when it's happy. The first sign of the light being too close is the individual serrations on the top leaves will be curled up and inward. Leaves will start to curl in like a taco shell. I will actually walk the line where the plant usually has a couple of leaves doing that in flower. Part of it is to get the plant the most light it can handle and part of it is that I'm out of light headroom.

If you're using liquid koolbloom you don't need regular bloom. I use the standard bloom for veg plants. Koolbloom is an alternative PK supp that's made to help initiate flowering. It has special ingredients built for beginning and mid flower cycle. It's also twice as strong as standard bloom so you don't have to use as much. Dry koolbloom is made for end flower/ripening and has special ingredients for that. I go from flora bloom in veg, liquid koolbloom early/mid flower, and dry koolbloom from 5-6 weeks out depending on how long that plant takes to finish. When I go to dry koolbloom I drop micro down at least 2ml's because unlike the other bloom nutrients in the line dry koolbloom is 2% nitrogen.

I've also heard that floralicious plus has humic/fluvic acid in it so there's no need to run both that and diamond nectar. I use diamond nectar in veg and floralicious in bloom but I don't really like the floralicious plus that much. I didn't see much for noticeable gains, it's a mess in the res, and it smells horrible.

I really like florablend. It's very cheap and worth it to me. It fills a lot of holes in the standard hydro approach by putting a bunch of organic micronutrients in the mix from plant extracts. I would recommend adding that. It's also great for feeding clones and cuttings. It's very light npk .5-1-1 but has a great mix of ingredients like kelp that has plant growth hormones.

 

I can watch the shape of the very top pistils on the buds that are closest to the light and tell if the light is too close. If it's too close the very tip top will be a little bald of new pistils compared to other buds lower down and if the light is far enough the tip top will have a nice head of healthy hairs. I find this a better indicator to look at for light distance in flower.

 

I noticed something funny about the build on the qb. Look at the light at grower's lights.com. It has splice connectors on the driver output wires that simply make the wires longer. When you get the kit the wire on the driver is plenty long enough to connect directly to the board with no splice. The included solid core wire they splice to is a really small wire. If you look at the pictured lights at HLG's site the driver is connected directly to the board with no splice.

When I watched the youtube build video he recommended the splice so I used it. Then I looked closer one day on HLG and noticed the driver plugged directly into the board there. I was wondering why they would link a video that tells you to use the splice pieces but not do that on their own lights in the picture.

Speaking from an electrical connection standpoint of course it's better to connect the driver directly to the board. You want the least amount of connections or splices possible in a heavy working circuit. Each connection is a possible problem and each one will have a small amount of resistance.

Sorry, I like writing books about minor inconsistencies. Could eliminate a fire hazard though. There's also no need to go through that hole in the heat sink with the wire and possibly fraying the insulation off. You're better off just going around the side with the wire and using a tie to secure the wire to the hole.

 

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