Wiring boards from different orders in parallel.

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by Sc00byD00bie, Jun 4, 2019.

  1. On the HLG qb288 guide page it says:
    "DO NOT wire different version boards in parallel. For parallel wiring it has to be all QB 288 V2 R spec or all QB 288 V2 or all QB 288 V1 boards on a driver."

    And further down it says
    "Different batches of boards may have slightly different voltages. Use only boards from same batch for parallel connection."

    So does the second warning still apply or can one wire (the same model) boards from multiple orders to the same driver? The way they word the new warning makes it seem like that would be ok. :confused_2:

    Specifically I have three qb288v2, two from one order and a third from a second (it was actually a replacement for a defective board). I'm acutally not even sure they are different batches, this is what they have printed on the bottom right:


    The only difference is two boards say 1814-04 and the third board says 1814-03, is that the batch number or is it the 8D06 number next to it (which is the same for all three).
    If they are different batches, how bad would it be to wire them in parallel on a single driver?
  2. I've seen guys on here wiring different boards like 3000k with a 4000k so ....
    But I don't know seems to me that yours would work. In my experience these boards are tough I've wired mine backwards accidentally with no negative effects.
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  3. Probably a @Tbone Shuffle question lol.

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  4. The main problem is different batches might have a slightly different voltage/current rating so some may appear brighter then others partially because of thermal runaway.

    Thermal runaway gets thrown around a lot with leds but I've yet to see it ever be a big problem with qb's. They have a limited thermal runaway and once they warm up they settle out.

    That's why HLG would probably tell you not to do it. Some may put out more light then other boards and take slightly more of the current. There's no way to balance it out when on the same driver but honestly it would probably be very minimal difference.
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  5. It's a no go with wiring rspec and v2's together. It's the same as wiring v1's and v2's in parallel. They have a pretty drastically different voltage requirement. The v2's can run on 48 volt drivers. The v1's and rspecs need 54 volts.
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  6. Ok cool thank you @Tbone Shuffle ! I wouldnt mind if it just means one of the boards isnt as bright, or brighter, than the other two.
    I'm just starting my first round with the qb96elites and since I grow SOG some of the plants are starting to "lean" towards the boards, which isnt ideal in a SOG arrangment. So I'm planning on using my 288v2 boards cut in half and placed on the edges of the space to even out the light spread a bit.

    These are the cut up boards, had to do some Mcgyvering to make them work but I think they will work nicely for what I want.
    IMG_4917.jpg IMG_4923.jpg IMG_4924.jpg
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  7. Pretty neat project
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  8. Really nice work. Holy shit dude!. Better light distribution. That's always been the 288's problem. They should have build a board 50% larger and spread the diodes out.
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  9. This is awesome! Nice work dude!
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  10. Sweet it fucking worked!

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  11. Thought you guys might find this interesting-


    I picked up a wall meter to compare readings from the ac out versus the in-line meter I have on the dc side of the driver.

    These are both cheap meters, so who knows how accurate the readings are.

    The wattage and amperage is what surprised me the most.

    Could the wattage be reading higher on the ac side vs the dc side because loss of efficiency?

    It’s reversed with the amperage. It’s reading less draw from the wall, but higher post converter.

    Watt vs watt

    Volt vs volt (in-line cannot read past 99.99)

    Amp vs amp

    kWh vs kWh
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  12. The driver itself uses some of that power, I think HLG drivers are about 90% efficient so that’s where that little bit of power goes.
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  13. Thanks man! Yeah the 288 boards really pack those diodes tight when you think about it, I think the 120 and 132 boards are much better in that regard.
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  14. Yeah man thanks to your wiring diagram I was able to figure it out :). Took quite a bit of elbow grease to cut the boards with that hook knife like in that video I showed you, probably spent about 30 minutes just making the scratch deeper until I could bend the board and break it at the seam but it worked out nice in the end.
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  15. We have our local electrical wizard, answering some of these questions.

    LED lighting and effect on Photobiology
    LED lighting and effect on Photobiology
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  16. I've always thought this from the very beginning of my adventure into these boards and led. I imagine it helps with heat distribution as well.

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  17. I really like boards that spread the coverage out also. If you need a denser light just pack more boards together.

    The long guys in this picture are kind of what you described.
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  18. I like that top board layout what are the dimension?
  19. Alot of good info here. Sorry if this is a bad place to ask this question.

    I'm going to setup a small grow to keep my succulents and other plants healthy over the winter, I want the cheapest electric bill possible, I have hoT5 in storage but want LED. Window sills aren't cutting it.

    I was thinking a sf-1000 and run it at half strength or so, should be plenty for what I am going for. Ever need for another purpose I can use.

    Is there some high quality I could build myself and save money? 150$/100 watts from spider farmer seems a bit much. Samsung probably the way to go, I want as much spectrum I can get similar to the sun.

    Skill level - I can't even wire a CFL to a light switch, I'm decent at youtube though.

    I will probably stay away from those cheap blurples that I see everywhere.

    Good useful info, free bump nonetheless

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  20. @trojangrower had one of these lights. He can probably help
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