Winterizing/ De-Waxing Bho (My Method)

Discussion in 'Harvesting and Processing Marijuana' started by todderfran, May 18, 2014.

  1. Here it is.  I know a few blades out there have been wondering how I do this.  I also don't think there are many good places to get this info.  Yes Skunk Pharm etc has winterizing but not really a how to.  I also believe a lot of people bash winterized for taste but they cook the hell out of it when purged.  Not necessary.  this is not the end all to winterizing just my method.
     
    Some tools needed;  Good bud, glass. or SS tubes, beaker, filter system (Buchner, or just coffee filters), parchment/pyrex, vac chamber, and vac pump though not necessary. Butane, and Everclear, or food grade ethanol.  No Iso please.  Iso is the last choice for winterizing.
     
    Good Bud: IMG_1108.JPG heat element on dehydrator is disabled.  Just circulates air.
    Tubes: IMG_1109.JPG
    1.  Blast as usual, thermos soak, closed loop, etc.
    2.  After blast add in ratio of 1 part ethanol to 2 parts butane. IMG_1111.JPG   So if you have 300mL solution after blast add 150mL ethanol.  Pour slow as there is a reaction between butane and ethanol IMG_1112.JPG IMG_1115.JPG   Obviously do this all outside.  the reaction between butane and ethanol will purge all the butane out.  you know the butane is gone when you stir the solution and no more bubbles occur.
    3.  Now to the freezer.  Be sure all butane is gone.  If not you may blow up you freezer.  Leave in freezer covered for 24-48 hrs.  For this run I did a dry ice chill.  This is not necessary, but will help precipitate out more waxes and fats.  For dry ice I do a cooler inside another cooler and leave it outside over night. IMG_1110.JPG
    4.  Filter.  After 24-48 hrs you will notice the solution has become cloudy.  That is all the nasty stuff we are trying to get rid of. IMG_1116.JPG .  To get rid of this you can just pour it through a coffee filter.  however we will use a Buchner funnel with a vacuum assist to speed things up IMG_1118.JPG   To avoid pulling too hard and sucking waxes through the filter I use my chamber as the vac pump.  I set it up pump-hose-chamber-hose-Buchner.  Pull chamber to partial vac then close valve.  Now open valve to Buchner and use chamber as pump.  This will keep nasties out of your pump, and keep from pulling too hard.  Though it is not necessary with ethanol.  If you were single solvent de-waxing you would want to set up Buchner like this. IMG_1119.JPG
    So for those of you who think this is a waste of time here is what was pulled from only half the solution IMG_1122.JPG and this stuff was filtered twice.
    5.  Evaporation:  Now it is time to evap ethanol.  here is where I think people go wrong.  Most think you need to cook it off over a water bath at 170 degrees.  that is where all flavor is lost.  here is what I do.  make a dish out of parchment, or just use pyrex.  However the pyrex becomes a bitch.  Will cover that later.  here is how I fold parchment IMG_1123.JPG   Pour your solution in and place in a well ventilated, cool, dark, dust free area to evap with a light breeze blowing over the solution for 24-36 hrs.  here is a box I made with a 4" inline fan creating a passive air flow.  I put a seed mat in the bottom to raise solution temp to 80 deg.  this box can be directly vented outside. IMG_1126.JPG
    6.  Purge:  After 24-36 hrs. you will be left with a viscous oleoresin of cannabis oil and remaining ethanol.  Unfortunately this is the only pic I forgot.  I will see if I can find an old one.  Anyhow from here you will need a vac, and chamber or will need to do a low, and slow heat purge.  The oleoresin will develop a thin film on top that will not allow the remaining ethanol to escape.  So just vac as normal, or do a slow heat purge at like 100-110.
    7.  Enjoy.  This oil is usually so stable it takes 24-48 hrs in the chamber at 100 degrees.  Remember the evap on pyrex vs. parchment.  I use parchment because after vac chamber it is near impossible to get the oil off the pyrex.  I needed to heat it to 120 so I could scrape it off.  leaving me some crystals of solitude. IMG_1129.JPG IMG_1132.JPG .  I believe the little bit of heat affected taste a bit.  here is what came off the parchment IMG_1134.JPG IMG_1135.JPG .  This stuff is so stable you can hold it between your fingers without it getting soft indefinitely.  I hope you enjoy.  Questions comments just ask.  However this is not a thread to debate winterized vs. non winterized.  We all have our preference.  This is a thread to share ones love for winterized products, and to share others methods.  Whether they be single solvent in a closed loop, or thermos soak method.  This is meant for the at home hash maker.

     
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  2. damn...the science behind it is sound...wish I could try that...looks tasty. :smoking:
     
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  3. Great write up todder, very cool way to clean up your extracts.
     
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  4. You dont need to use a passive vac for ethanol washes, only with tane you need a passive vac. good write up :metal:
     
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  5. Great write up. Would ptfe sheets work with alcohol? I use them for my normal butane runs but never tried winterizing. Just thermos method


    Trim Nazi
     
  6. PTFE will work with just about any solvent :p
     
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  7. This is true.  I just added it so people doing single solvent could see how the set up goes.
     
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  8. Damn... this is good. .. you use your buchner funnel instead of coffee filters?
    How many layers of unbleached coffee filters would I use?
    That crap you pulled out... is that what was left in your buchner filter? ? And the solution is now in your beaker right?
    Then heat purge at 80 with air flow. ... then vac purge the last thin film to evap the ethanol away with or without heat for 1 or 2 days sorry... that's where I'm lost. ..

    Sorry for all the question and thanks for the info. .. definitely doing this!
    How long does it take if you don't use the vacuum to filter?
    And should the temp of the pyrex you blast into be cold too .. or the butane?

    Sent from my SGH-I747M using Grasscity Forum mobile app
     
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  9. #9 rizz0420, May 19, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: May 19, 2014
    Sorry todder I'm hoping that covers all questions to make it easy lol

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  10. You can use just 1 coffee filter
    Yeah the white stuff on the filter is the "wax" pulled out.  Leaving the now polished solution in the beaker below.
    Evap at air temp then I vac @ 100-110 depending on viscosity for 24-48 hrs. again depending on viscosity and heat.  This is all strain dependant I find.  Some strains come out so hard they take longer to fully purge. 
     
  11. Sorry I forgot the last 2 questions.  Without the vac assist it takes like 30 min. to over an hour.  Always filter in the freezer so no waxes re melt..
    Temp of pyrex or butane, and material is really up to you.  Won't affect the final product.
     
  12. #12 rizz0420, May 19, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: May 19, 2014
    Beauty man. .. less liable to wax up overall. .. little time consuming but for a personal run of some beautiful herb why not. .. def trying this out!

    Lastly...do u blast on heat or does it not matter ?
    And would you recommend filtering twice?
    Is much yield lost due to this process (not that i care fir personal runs - just curious)
    Thanks man!!... starting to get savvy ! Lol
     
  13. #13 Jimmy Carter, May 19, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: May 19, 2014
    The temp of the solution does kinda matter, you dont want it to dip below -40F or you'll start solidifying actual oils. between -25 and -35F is perfect
     
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  14. #14 rizz0420, May 19, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: May 19, 2014
    U mean when it is in the freezer after filtering out the waxes right?

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  15. this is really great and needed, thank you so much.
     
  16. Temp when you blast as far as I have seen makes no difference.  Jimmy hit the nail on the head though if it gets too cold while in freezer it can start to solidify, or thc can actually start to precipitate out.  Not much yield is lost.  depends on strain though.  And really return % doesn't matter as you are only getting rid of stuff that does nothing for you.  So per gram it should be more potent, and can be sold for more $ per gram.   But FYI after winterizing the return on this run was 20.5% which is huge with winterizing.  I did double blast the material on this run which I recommend when winterizing.  You are going to pull the extra crap out from second blast anyhow.  Otherwise I usually get between 14-18% when winterizing.  Of course again all strain dependent.
     
  17. #17 rizz0420, May 19, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: May 19, 2014
    Double blast as in blast then grind it up and blast again right?

    I cant find ethanol or everclear in canada. ..I love my country but not for oil making.

    Will methyl hydrate work? ? 99.9 % alcohol. ...
    This is all I can really find
     
  18. Thanks for asking all the questions rizz... I'm slowly picking up things too!
     
  19. Double blast is exactly that.  Blast, grind, blast again. 
    Ethanol can be hard to get, same with everclear for that matter depending on where you are.  I got ethanol from amazon for like $50 a pint.  Can't get it in all states though.  Maybe try that.  I have no idea about methyl hydrate.  But basically any high proof grain alcohol works. 
     
  20. Ethanol is the solvent of choice for winterizing, its chemical properties make it so. Thats why you cant just use any alcohol, or even acetone. I've heard of people wanting to do it with practically any solvent that can dissolve the oils. It has to have the right polarity and all that jazz.
     
    IPA can be used but its not the Ideal solvent.
     

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