# will i have enough power for this?

Discussion in 'First Time Marijuana Growers' started by darkkilla32, Nov 19, 2014.

1. If you need to ask this you need to do some homework on electrical systems. There are a lot of factors.

2. well i think my garage has a 15 amp limit and my lights are 8 amps fans are 1 amp and heater is 4 amps  leaving 2 amps left over so i dont blow a fuse

3. OK...here's how you have to figure it.

Anything on a 110 circuit, knock off 10% instantly. AC has integral inefficiencies at about that level.

Now take the "true wattage" of all equipment (for instance, if using a 23 watt cfl that calls itself a "100 watt", it means it puts out the same 1500-1700 lumens a 100 watt incandescent does, but uses only 23 watts continuous, and about 24 while being started)

If you have a ballast, figure a 5% inefficiency constantly (multiply the lamp rated wattage by 1.05) continuous, 10% during startup.

On that 110 circuit, every 100 watts is an amp. period. No ifs, ands, or buts.

However, where there's a 15 amp breaker (BREAKER, not fuse), usually 14 gauge wire was used, so you CAN replace it with a 20 amp simply by throwing the house breaker, yanking the little bastard, unscrewing the bolt that holds the wire, screwing it to a brand new 20 amp, and plugging the new one back in...they're plug and play, essentially.

And to be honest, 14 gauge is modern code, 16 gauge will handle it fine, unless there is an INTENSE surge, or constant draw along a path where there's an inconsistent connection (in other words, if the socket isn't fully and properly wired to the wire, so it sparks, or only has as much wire actually connected to it as if the whole thing was wired with 20 gauge).

If you have 20 amp circuits on the board at all, chances are the whole house is wired with 14 gauge.

BUT...something you're not considering, apparently.

An average household uses 40 kWh/dy. so at peak time (between everyone getting home from work/school and going to bed), you use almost half of that power. That's 2.5 kWh per hour (2500 watts), or 25 constant amps across the MAIN breaker. And that's the AVERAGE across the period where your clothes dryer, stove, dishwasher, laundry machine, and water heater are most often, but not CONSTANTLY, in use...so if ANY of those are electric, while they're on, they are "spikes" CREATING that average, though your normal use may be as low as 2.2 kWh/hr

So even if you can do it on 15 amp breakers, if you have a 50 amp main breaker, at some point in the evening, EVERY evening, you will be drawing over 25 amps on the rest of the house PLUS your "definite" 13 amps, PLUS.

By the way...your 1000 watt HID is NOT going to pull 8 amps. 1000 watts on 110 is 10 amps, no matter how you cut it, and the best digital ballast in production has a 4% inefficiency constant (pulls 10.4 amps) and an 8% inefficiency at startup (10.8 amps), your heater is 5 amps NOT COUNTING inefficiencies (and baseboard heaters have a 10% inefficiency, minimum, constant, and 14% startup...that's for the best ones in existence for electric baseboard heaters).

So between your lights and heater alone, at constant run, not startup, you're pulling 15.9 amps. If you have the most efficient equipment on the market with those wattage ratings.

So short and sweet...you can't even run your lights and heater off that circuit.

4. so you are saying that to run that equipment i will need a 20 amp breaker for my garage so i would go to my breaker box figure out which one is my garages cicuit breaker and replace it with a 20 amp breaker if it isnt already one

5. http://www.onlineconversion.com/ohms_law.htm

Use that, and remember, AC current ALWAYS has a 10% inefficiency...110 is PEAK voltage in the sine wave on a 110, 220 is PEAK on a 220 circuit, but the effective is 100 and 200 respectively. A ballast is, essentially, an inverter...it turns AC current to DC current at a level constant..creating further inefficiency.

So when using a calculator, always use "100" for a 100 circuit, and "200" for a 220 circuit. Only time you can calculate anything electrical with the rated numbers is on a fully DC circuit, because there's no modulation involved.

6. #7
Last edited by a moderator: Nov 19, 2014
Minimum. And even then, you'll have to also look at your main breaker. If it's a 50 amp, you're done for...YOU aren't able to change the panel, your electric company insists a journey licensed electrician sign off on the work before they'll put the meter back on so you have power, and if you try to do it without having the meter pulled, you're gonna fry as sure as Ted Bundy did.

And THAT is likely to cost you in excess of \$2,000

And if you pull the meter yourself, it's a felony charge that the electric company WILL pursue.

7. Though I do have to congratulate you on choosing pretty good gear...only thing I'd have ordered differently as a startup, knowing what I know now, is Gorilla makes the best tents, IMO, even if they're a bit pricy....Lighthouse has an issue with breaking zippers, I hear.

8. im not sure what im reading on my main breaker but it said something about 200 a. max not sure if that means i have 200 max amps or not

9. i will definitely look into it

10. That would mean it's capable of TAKING a 200 amp breaker, max, on that panel. Not necessarily what's there. Gotta read the breaker itself, not the panel. It should have numbers on the switch to the breaker, and that's the breaker's rating.

If the main breaker has to be replaced, you still need a licensed electrician, but it's only going to cost you about \$75 to the electric company for the meter pull, maybe \$200 for the electrician (probably less), and maybe \$50 for the breaker itself.

How far's the garage from the breaker box? I might be able to give you one HELL of a cheat to save your ass.

11. is at most 30 feet

12. OK...walls to go through?

Reason I'm asking is you MIGHT be able to save yourself a shitload of trouble, if the main breaker is 100 or 200 amps. Putting a new 220 circuit in is simplicity itself, and then you cut your amperage in half, on the light, and CAN switch to a 220 baseboard heater (can have up to 4 sockets or wired units on a single 220 circuit by code, and if YOU do improvements like that, it's a "homeowner upgrade"...so long as it comes CLOSE to code, it's legal).

13. the breaker is in the basement so needs to go outside up the stairs and into the garage ?

14. Finished basement? Unless the garage is separate from the house, no problemo, esse. If the basement's finished, just means you're going to have to do some drywall patching afterwards, and my son was doing that for me when he was 12, so it isn't hard.

15. the garage is indeed separate and advice for that?

16. Hard conduit.

Problem is hard conduit is a bit obvious, unless you can run it through soil, instead of on top of cement.

17. well it is in my backyard so i guess obvious isnt too big of a deal

18. wait a sec i just stepped into my garage again and theres a circuit breaker there too there is a line from wires outsdie my house going to the garage

19. Well life just got easy for you, then.

Breaker size on the main breaker?