Why even use return lines in RDWC?

Discussion in 'Hydroponic Growing' started by VicRattlehead, Jul 27, 2021.

  1. Yep. The first one I made was the normal way with pvc, and had that exact root problem but also it leaked like a sieve.
    But you’re still not getting the benefit.
    Each day you have to check your ph, ppms and temp.
    So if you are doing multiple buckets each lid has to be lifted and stick your sensor pen into each bucket, the more the buckets the bigger the hassle. Instead, This way you can drop your sensor into a central res for an accurate aggregate reading
    Also your nutrients need changing on a weekly basis, so if you incorporate a drain plug into your system, turn that on instead of having to lift every single bucket and empty it out ready for the next solution, but if you are running DWC or RDWC you will definitely be scrogging, NOT much fun emptying the buckets then.
    So when you are running the one strain of whichever your best genetics are, after a few cycles and careful recording of especially the ppms. You know exactly how strong to make your solution so the plants thrive to their best ability.
    Because if your solution is too strong the plants will just drink the water and ppms I’ll go up, but if the solution is too weak, the plants will suck all the nutes out in the first couple days of the weekly solution, and just be drinking water the rest of the time.
    It’s all about rigorously recording each of the values, so after a few cycles you can dial it to perfection
    Dj
     
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  2. Make sure you get the proper fittings and don’t use silicone. It degrades quite quickly
     
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  3. #23 VicRattlehead, Jul 28, 2021
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2021
    no scrog, and yeah ill use a pump from the res straight to my sink from either a drain or throw a submersible into the res to empty it lol. Then pump my premixed water back in to refill. I'm not carrying water around

    Going to try the uniseals out and see how they work, hopefully well.

    I don't see why i would have to lift each lid and test each bucket in an undercurrent style system, it is recirculating so I thought i could just check the "control" bucket and be good
     
  4. No not undercurrent, just if you were doing DWC as opposed to RDWC
     
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  5. #25 VicRattlehead, Jul 28, 2021
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2021
    That's my main reason for wanting RDWC, I don't want to be climbing back there wrestling with plants and shit lol. That sounds like a full time job.

    You think I will have serious problems with my water at like 75 degrees max? I don't even know if they would get that warm in the winter. I could add that to the list of shit I need, found one for like 300$ 1/10 hp...should be more than enough for 25g
     
  6. Yes seriously. 75f is 23.9c. Way too fukn hot. It needs to be 16-19c which is 61-66.I’m in mid winter at the moment, and I need chillers.it’s the temp of your room . If you are running mh or hps the room should be 26c and leds 30c. And that will drastically effect the water temp when the lights are on
     
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  7. #27 VicRattlehead, Jul 28, 2021
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2021
    doing LEDs, 600w actual power used

    I mean, I could theoretically get it to be freezing in my grow room by cracking a nearby window lol... Or as cold as the plants could tolerate really. Even without a window cracked I'm thinking I can easily keep the whole tent below 70 degrees.
     
  8. I’m running x6 @645w, and even then in winter I have to heat it up to get to 30c.
    Also remember to put your air pump outside your room as if you are running CO2 you’ll poison your roots and if not the hot air from the room (30c) for leds will quickly heat your water temp up.
    Dj
    Pro tip buy a chiller that runs 3times the capacity of your literage, as their recommended output is BS, it’ll save you heaps on power too. As a big one will get to the right temperature quickly and then turn off versus a small one that’ll just be flogging the shite out of itself all the time
     
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  9. Cuz, ( cousin not because)
    You’ve invested in quality lighting, why skimp on an essential piece of equipment.
    Half asses measures will give you 1/4 assed results.
    And opening a window and chilling your plants to 70f is severely going to stunt their growth.
    I bought x6 Fluence spyder 2i ($3000 each over here) and was growing at 26c or 79f (which is proper temp for hps) and couldn’t figure out why they were stunting until I realised leds run at 30c or 86f room temp for maximum growth
    Dj
     
  10. I don't think the inside of my tent will be near 30c/86f in the winter time. When I'm home my heat is set to like 68 room temp, when I'm gone it's colder.. 400cfm if i need it in the tent...the air in the tent would be refreshed 4 times a minute at that rate

    I'm not worried about getting the absolute maximum quantity, this is all just for me and I can only smoke so much these days lol. Quality I do appreciate though. I hear you though, I'll def buy one at some point. I might end up going soil one more time at this rate, and while thats growing get the hydro setup ready, so I'm not rushing it.
     
  11. Hey just attach an extraction fan with a temp gauge , and set it to flick on at anything above 86f. The air doesn’t need that much refreshing. And there are many CO2 options, that’s all air refreshing is about, just making sure the ppm of CO2 doesn’t drop below atmospheric levels of 450ppm. For veg you want 800 ppm and 1200 to 1400 ppm for flower for maximum growth. But getting into CO2 is just another head fuk
    Dj
     
  12. #32 VicRattlehead, Jul 28, 2021
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2021
    I'm not using co2 and by that i meant it would pretty much keep my grow tent about as cool as i set my house temp, so as cool as i want it. I don't care if they don't grow at the absolute maximum speed possible. But I feel like 70 would be a happy medium for the water and plants assuming I dont use a chiller, or at least until flowering

    I'm thinking i could run my tent at 68-70 degrees during flowering. They might not grow as fast, but I think they would be fine, and the water shouldn't be too hot. I guess I can set up the lights, fan, and put a bucket of water in there and find out
     
  13. I'm wondering now how much a pump heats up the water, but I cant imagine much
     
  14. All good cuz,
    There are a million and one growing techniques.
    For a billion and one reasons.
    You’ll find out what works best for you and your growing goals.
    You’ll have to excuse me as I just assume everyone is growing for yield.
    So the only real advice I can give you about RDWC is DONT GET LAZY with it.
    If you have any more questions or need a hand to nut something out drop me a line,
    But I’m not always in wifi range so it might take me a while
    Dj
     
  15. Definitely a pump will heat your water temp up, and so will the second one for your chiller. Lucky they invented chillers ,huh?
     
  16. And the third one to pump through a UV sterilisation unit to kill all your pathogens
     
  17. Hey quick thought , if it’s minus temps outside for you, buy a air pump that has a nozzle for the intake, attach some poly and run it outside.
    Therefore you can pump fridgid air straight into your water, and you won’t have to buy
    a chiller till summer
     
  18. Big circles fucking suck. I have a system like that, plants in the loop that’s not the first In the loop start to lack certain nutes because every other plant eats it up before it gets to it, then on top of that water levels never stay even
     
  19. Yeah mate, the first system I built had those troubles, the second one works a treat. It works opposite to “current” thinking, each of the 24 pots is on a poly pipe grid, each with their own inline tap, so they all get the same at the same time and levels the same. But main difference is the flow goes into the bottom and out through the top, so never any root jam issues, no need for pvc .all poly pipe!
     
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  20. Ok this sounds really fucking cool… I need pics and links lmfao if you don’t mind
     

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