What's wrong?

It's a deficiency of a sort but it's impossible to know without all of the details of your setup, medium, water, nutes, additives, pH and PPM. It's not caused by overwatering - it looks like mg deficiency. Supply that other info, including how much calmag that you added and when did you add it? Today? A month ago? All along?

 

What's your ph

 

Not sure what the problem was...maybe something with pH levels, but if you'll look at your new growth coming out...it looks just fine. Always judge whether you have issues by what the new growth look like. The leaves on a MJ plant do not heal up. So once you see issues happening, you can go ahead and count that one out. But anything going on on old growth represents time past and doesn't mean it's happening right now. As far as checking the pH goes, I have no idea what you use to monitor and adjust the pH, but it's been my experience that investing in a really good pH tester is worth every penny. With a soil grow, the pH is not quite so important as with the hydro grow, but if it's out of range really bad, you will see affects from it. As long as you keep it around the right range (6.3 to 6.7 for soil), you'll be fine. If you're not growing "auto" strains, you can grow with soil alone and toss the nutes. Just use some good quality formulated grow soil and simply repot your plant when it becomes root bound. Start them in small containers and only pot up to a slightly larger size when the plant becomes wider and taller than the container it's in. Giving straight pH'd tap water (distilled/filtered waters are missing micronutrients that are in tap water that they need and use and we don't treat in the U.S. with chlorine any longer...they use chloramine now and it won't harm your plants). A good grow soil contains everything a plant needs throughout it's life and repotting into fresh soil when needed resupplies the nutrients your plants need. Good soil is expensive, but it's worth it IMO. We use the soil (Roots Organics Original), tap water and light. Light is the most important element of your grow...it actually makes the plant grow. Nutes are simply plant food and though the plant needs feeding, a soil grow requires MUCH less of the chemical additives than the hydro setup does. To get a great harvest from a plant, you must have enough wattage of good quality flower lighting to get it to produce. You can pour various chemicals into it all day long and just burn your plant. If you're growing in soil, keep it simple. Use good soil and always let your plants dry out to nearly dead dry before watering again. Repot when they outgrow old container into larger one with new soil and you're good for several more weeks. Hope it goes well. Your plants look great now. Whatever your issue was, looks like you got it corrected. TWW

 

You really need to do more homework before you give advice. Google "Free Chlorine in public water supplies" and you'll see that most cities and towns in the USA use chlorine to treat public water.

Do you have the same cut & paste answer you paste for every response you give?

J

 

This is totally false, I have mentioned it before, and yet you continue to give out the wrong information. Deficiencies show themselves on both new and old growth depending on what it is. Mobile elements like Nitrogen, Magnesium, Potassium, and Phosphorous first display their deficiency in older leaves and immobile elements like Calcium, Sulfur and Iron display it in newer growth. You might want to go to growweedeasy.com to the plant problems section and read before you give out the wrong information. It's not surprising the you only yield 10 oz. with a 1000w HPS.

 

Do you even read the questions? His plants don't look great - he has a problem and that's the reason he started this thread - to get help - his problem hasn't been resolved. What could possibly make you think that his issue is corrected? Wow.

 

I don't grow in soil so I'm not qualified to give advice. Sorry. But I would like to know why you use all that stuff? Could all that stuff be part of the problem? I use one thing - bloom nutrients only from start to finish with excellent results.

 

What happens if you end up with too much P? What does a hog do if it eats too much or is that even possible?

 

I wasn't trying to be disparaging brother. You mentioned that this occurred in your last 3 grows, what about the grows before that? Were you using the same mixture of additives or have you changed? Just because a nutrient company offers different additives in their line doesn't mean it's all needed, or that any of it is needed for that matter. I yield 8 oz. per plant with just MaxiBloom. Not suggesting you switch - just making a point that all that stuff is not necessary for great plants.

 

I admittedly know nothing about organic. I use coco. You didn't mention what the difference was between the last 3 grows and your prior grows.

 

organics usually already have a lot of P. Bat has P, grow has P, Bloom has more P. Oh well, google around and see if excess P matches any of your problems since you know you have plenty of P and it's certainly not P deficient. Excess P usually hits iron first and you will see a tell tale yellowing at the very top. So, if that's how it starts IDK. Calcium is a real bitch because almost everything to fix makes something else worse. I grow all organic and only need very small amounts of P and K. It's hard to over fertilize with organics, but I have done it.

 

What are you using for water? If it isn't RO, what is it's starting PPM and do you off gas the chlorine?

 

I agree he probably has enough phosphorus with all that stuff but, If you look at the symptoms of phosphorus deficiency it looks a heck of a lot like his plants. Maybe phosphorus is locked out somehow?
Cannabis Phosphorus Deficiency - See the Symptoms & Get the Solution! | Grow Weed Easy




85 degrees with 1200ppm of co2? I think your temp is too low to take full advantage of the co2. It should be 90-95.