Got some plants in a tent it's rather hot but I'm enriching with c02. I think magnesium deficiency but I added some cal mag and nothing happened anyone else got a guess Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
May be you need to put some ac for the plants or may be to much c02 fix those and wait to see any difference
Looks like some classic nute burn but I'm also not aware of what high levels of CO2 will do to a plant. What're you feeding
A burn. I thought for sure it was a deficiency. What kind of nutrient am I over feeding with. At the point when I took this it had only calmag added to it Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
Are you using new or old soil? It doesnt look like defeciency, the darker green on the inner and light green on the outter THAT looks like defeciency but not the burns. If it isnt too much of something could be heat. If its not new soil maybe there was an imbalance from before?
New soil but they've been in it sometime. I had given them so little nutrients when they started to burn like that. It is hot in my tent but I try to add co2 to compensate. It's also a random bacto mix of soil with a little bat guano added before before I planted Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
How hot is a little hot, how close are the lamps, the plants do seem compact maybe light is too close? What type of light is it Sent from my KFTBWI using Tapatalk
I think the light was too close before. It's been moved to the top of the tent so maybe 3 feet of space maybe more. And the temps vary usually around high 80's with lights on but a few days ago there was a heat wave and it was a hundo in the tent Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
I take that back the top most leaves would probably burn first if light were too close Sent from my KFTBWI using Tapatalk
I use led's mars hydro right now earlier I was using 2 but I cut to 1 because the plants weren't that big and the temps were too high Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
I'll put up another picture later today. But I think the plants were stressed in a few different ways so I'll try to solve the easy problems so I can isolate what's really the problem Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
You need to go back and read the chapter on "grow media" for a soil grow and what it's consistency SHOULD be and, most importantly, how to tell when your plant ACTUALLY needs watered. Over watering, wrong soil mix (desperately need better drainage), see nute burn...which may be from the soil you're using and some heat stress. The sativas can take more heat than the indicas can, but heat will kill them quick if temps get too high. I suspect your biggest issue is over watering though. NEVER EVER give your plant more water until you can lift the container it's in and feel NO weight....NONE, Nada, Zilch....ZERO. Should feel like you've just filled the pot with fresh dry soil for the first time. If you're not waiting till then, you're watering WAY too much. These plants hate having their roots sit in wet soil constantly. Get the temps in your space at least to the mid 80's and below. Chances are that soil was loaded with chemicals so know that it will feed your plant for a nice like span of time...stay away from the nute bottles until the plant has a chance to use what is in the soil. You don't need a ton of nutes to pull off a soil grow if you use a soil of any quality, because MJ is a super fast cycling plant and a plant can only use so much to start with. Many get the hydro and soil grow processes mixed up and just about everybody comes in thinking that the more nutes I give my plants, the better plants I get. WRONG! Change "nutes" to "light" in that sentence and you will have found the secret to growing big plants. LIGHT is the thing that matters with an indoor grow (specifically flower lighting)..and giving them enough space so the light can penetrate the canopy of the plant. Nutes are nothing more than plant food that has been repackaged into pretty shaped bottles with colorful labels...to get you to buy them. If you know what the nutritional intake of a MJ plant will be throughout it's life and can meet that, the plant grows fine. Buy yourself a bag of high quality formulated grow soil. It's worth the money. Water (only after plant has thoroughly dried out) with tap water (we don't treat with chlorine in the US anymore and filtered waters have been stripped of everything and there are micronutrients in tap water that the plants need and use). Spend your money on flower lighting. You can veg easily with CFLs and they are not hot. We use them for veg just for that reason. But if you give a plant the right soil, water and light....you'll come out on top every time. We run 4, 1000 watt HPS fixtures per flower room and flower 2 plants under each on a 10 wk cycle and have been averaging around 5 oz after cure per plant using only soil, water and light. So basically, all you've got to do is water the plant when it actually needs it and repot into a slightly larger container and fresh soil when it becomes root bound and expends the nutrition in the soil it's been growing in. The repot and new soil will pick up feeding your plant and will finish it out. A hungry plant will always tell you it's hungry. The coloring of the foliage will wash out to a more yellowish green instead of the rich blue green we associate with a healthy MJ plant. As a matter of fact, the plant will always tell you what is wrong. You just have to get good enough with it to understand what it's saying...and that simply comes with time spent working with them. Hope this helps you some. TWW
This is impossible....plant weighs, soil weighs, container weighs, it's impossible to feel nada, zero, zilch, zero, none,, no weight. More of your extremely odd advice.
Yep a good way to do it which is what I always do in solo cups and smaller pots until I would get use to that plants specific water consumption is weigh the pot... with just soil that hasn't been watered.. just damp soil from the bag... and that's roughly the weight you want to aim for for your plant when watering maybe a bit heavier to factor in the plant but that plant doesn't weigh much... I'm just saying weighing my pots to make sure they are ready for water has always done me well... I know when my solo cup weights under 90 grams it's around time for a watering... I know when my 2.5 gal pot is around 2000 grams it's time for a watering... I know when a 32 oz soda cup is 115 grams or so it's time for a watering and so on and so on... now as the plants get significantly bigger it'll change some but by then you'll have the watering schedule down pact... my last grow my plants were drinking watering every other day. one in a 5 gal and the other one I n the 2.5 gal... now this grow I have two plants one in a 5 gal bucket and another in a 2.5 gal pot and I've went over 9 days without water wrong them... they are typically going 6-7 days without needing water now. Special Queen #1 https://forum.grasscity.com/index.php?threads/Attempt-#2--(Special-queen-#1).1432973/
I've been growing long enough I don't do any of that. I can look at a plant and its soil and know when to water. After awhile you just get the feel of it. I mainly use sips (sub irrigated planters) indoors anymore. The standard containers I do use are too big to be lifting anyways.
Oh I completely agree that info was mainly for OP haha. Helped me a ton starting out though. I never really had over watering problems I've always underwatered before over watering lol. But yeah I haven't been growing nearly as long so at the start of the grow I weigh to get the feel of it. Special Queen #1 https://forum.grasscity.com/index.php?threads/Attempt-#2--(Special-queen-#1).1432973/