Whats going on here?

Discussion in 'Sick Plants and Problems' started by Burnie420cali, May 9, 2011.

  1. My temp is 75 to 80, humidity is at 50%. Foxfarm soil and nutes. There 6 weeks away from harvest dont want to lose them now. Any help would be great.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Wanna check the back of ya leaves? You my friend, have spider mites.
     
  3. Mites, mites, mites.

    I found this ages ago and I have it posted in my grow room journal.

    Spider mites are probably the most prevalent pest to inside growers. There are many ways to eradicate these critters but can be broken down into two types of methods. These methods are chemical or organic.

    With any pest eradication program where you are depending on a chemical, be it organic or synthetic, it is best to cycle between three different pesticides for optimal results and to ensure the critters don't build an immunity to them.

    Chemical

    I've found that spraying with a pyrethium based spray to be very effective. Buying one that is combined with garlic would work as a repellent to these pests as well. The only problem with this is recently there have been shown to be pyrethium resistant mites. The treatment regime with this should be at least one spray a week, but no more than two. Don't think that more poison concentration will help remove them faster as it may only lead to your disappointment as you see your plants suffer from burning. When spraying make sure that the underside of the leaves get just a much of a generous spraying as the tops.

    If things have got right out of hand and nothing else seems to work you can count on flea bombs purchased from local supermarket. Be warned as they are full of dangerous poisons and the use of these should be greatly avoided within the last few weeks before harvest. The regime for these are one a week until problem solved, this is usually one week but occasionally you will need the second one. Make sure to turn off all exhaust fans for two hours from the time that the bomb is initially going off. After this two hour period is over turn back on exhaust fans and air out room thoroughly. Do this when the lights are out as a room full of fumes has a habit of exploding when a heat source or spark is present. These are so effective because the actually break into every part of the breeding cycle killing mites in all stages.

    The recent success in mite eradication has come from the availability of a pesticide called Avid. Many growers swear that this is the only thing that really works without reinfestation. It is extremely important to kill them off completely and not start breeding resistant populations.

    Organic

    The most popular of the organic pesticides in recent times is neem oil or neem based products. These do work well in most cases. The treatment regime for these is no more than every three days and should be avoided in the last couple of weeks due to the fact that it can give the flowers a dirty flavour when consumed.

    One completely chemical free way to eliminate mites is by manipulating the humidity in your grow room to above 80-90% for no more than three days. Any longer than this and you're asking for mold. This works because the mites absorb the extra moisture in the air and literally explode due to absorbtion of too much water.

    Another manual way to go about things is to go in every day and give the plants a liberal spraying with plain water on both tops and bottoms of leaf surfaces. This physically knocks them of and disturbs there patterns as mites may not move for three days at a time. With this, as with the previous method, beware of mold.

    With any treatment using chemicals be careful to follow instructions and follow good safety procedure. It's not the best feeling to be stuck in bed for a day due to inhalation of chemical vapors.

    Mites are by far the most hard to get rid of pests that attack indoor gardens-- weakening the plant and affecting yield-- badly infested plants yield poorly. I've used many methods to kill mites, everything from wishing they'll go away to spraying with toxic concoctions that would stop a charging rhino is it's tracks, some things I've learned are:

    * Wear gloves and spray in a ventilated area-- have a good wash with soap afterwards.

    * Shake the bottle before opening, take your time and measure out the exact ratio of poison to water.

    * It's best and easiest to attack mites as soon as you notice them, indoors they can multiply from just a few to being everywhere in a matter of 5 - 10 days-- hit them fast and hard.

    * Make a habit of looking under leaves for mites and on the top of the leaves for pale coloured, groups of " pin dot " signs of damage, which usually begin on leaves from the bottom half of the plant-- a quick check for mites every time you poke your head in the grow room-- that's second nature to any grower who has been hit hard by them before.

    * Rid the growroom and it's vicinity of any other plants, or treat every plant in the house.

    * Don't go near your grow area if you have been outside and have touched other plants, always wash and change first.

    * If you haven't got an adjustable pump up pressure sprayer/mister, get one-- a must for all growers-- use a medium fine spray with a strong pressure and spray both sides of every leaf, hold the pot up with one hand and spray the undersides from the bottom up, then spray the outer surfaces (I give the outside of the pot, the soil surface and the grow room's walls a spray as well).

    * Spray with a specialized mite spray in the recommended dosages. There are several products available from any garden centre, the active ingredient to look for is "DICOFOL", it kills mites, and you'll never see one for 3 months end of story. One hit is all that is needed, I've never had a need to re-spray-- this stuff has residual killing ability.

    In Australia there are two mite sprays that contain dicofol that I've used-- Hortico's red spider miticide and Garden King's red spider miticide, both are one hit wonders.

    * Forget those garlic/tobacco/chili etc sprays and other store bought "general purpose" insect sprays-- they never seem to win the war against mites or require multiple applications (I've never used neem oil or insecticide soaps).

    They state on the mite spray bottles that with dicofol sprays you can eat treated vegetables 7 days after spraying-- as this poison is only used once (late veg or early flowering is as late as I would spray or would need to) and with 50 -70 days between spraying and sampling, there should be no health issues.

    Horticulture soaps, pyrethrins and neem have limited killing effect, although if plants are dipped, the killing % reaches 90%+. Multiple applications will be required.
     

Share This Page