Alright guys so maybe you can throw me a bone, especially if your from the state of CA. I moved here and got my drivers license, insurance and yadda yadda for my 1996 Toyota Tacoma. However, to get it registered its gotta pass the smog inspection. Well, my truck has had the engine light on for 2 years now, the dealership I worked at put the OBD II reader on it and said I gotta take it to the dealership to get a more accurate reading as to waht it is. Well they start at $390 to check it out and fuck that. So due to the check engine light still staying on, Ive just been driving it unregistered in the state. Well, now, its got this problem and is making me consider a new vehicle. It runs great when driving, low speed, highway speeds, fantastic. But, it idle's rough with lots of vibrating, its done this for years since I started driving it. But for the past few weeks, if I am idle, like at a stop light, when I hit the gas, the initial acceleration will stutter a bit and then Ill be moving fine. But sometimes and more lately, it just stalls. Like, the engine just dies on me when I hit the gas pedal after idleing. And I got people behind me that are like Hey what the fuck!. Ive read this might be the Idle Air Control valve, and it might need to be cleaned or replaced. It also could be the distributor I guess? BUT, onto my point. So I might get rid of this truck in the next few months. However, since it is not registered in the state, and I cannot get it registered due to failing the smog inspection, so I am legally stuck with it. Does anyone know if its possible to sell it legally in CA without registering the truck? I wouldnt care selling it to some of the laborers who are looking for cheap vehicles. The blue book value is like $2200, Id be willing to accept like $1,200 for it.
Have you tried taking it to an Autozone or an auto parts store like that and asked them to scan the code? Most will do it for free. Chances are the engine code is related to the problem and it has just gotten worse overtime. Or the truck might just need a tune up
In regard to your question I found this online: "Yes, of course you can. You sign over the title (which itself never expires). In some states however, it is much easier to register an already registered vehicle than to re-register a vehicle with an expired registration (California is like that). So to make the deal easier for the new buyer (thus more salient) you should keep it registered if practical. Some states issue you a seperate title document (Ca for instance), in others it is part of the registration document (NY for instance, or at least it used to be that way in NY). In any event, the new owner legally is obligated to register (and insure) the vehicle before driving it home (even though this is often de facto ignored)."
Not really sure what the problem is, but try running some seafoam through it, and see if that makes any difference.
dude this sounds a lot like my truck when the O2 sensor needed replaceing. there a bitch.... pretty expensive something like 300 ish, thats why I was like you and said fuck it, just drove it with the engine light on.
Check yu spark plugs: broken plug bad gap spacing fowled or dirty carbon build up Check plug cables: plug clip head loose or broken bad crimp or connection cut or worn cable kinks or bends in cable arching or spark jumping means dielectric failed Check distributor cap {points}: Could be wrong one. Could be cracked or worn Check air to fuel ratio. Smog check will tell you a number of factors in air to fuel Also most states have a "failed inspection" program. There are many service providers listed with the state to offer discounted and regulated services for failed smog test. Usually the receipt from one of the "state" recognized service providers is enough to get a pass. As mentioned you should go get the chip read. They plug in and in a couple of minutes you got answers. Also check on selling it as salvage. Each state varies a bit but it sometimes works. Good luck
Same thing happened to my 92 yota awhile back, i can't remember what the problem was but i think it was either a fan or cooling problem. Take it to a toyota specialist that isn't dealer associated and have them look at it.
OP, you can check the Toyota forums for this, or just do this test yourself. If all you need to pass your local inspection is to have NO CEL (Check Engine Light) showing, then simply disconnect your battery for about 15 minutes, and reconnect it. Usually, even when something is wrong, car computers go through several cycles of starting and shutting down the engine through a couple of days before it throws the CEL again. Just do the battery trick right before you go in for an inspection. To ensure that it will last until you get to the inspection station, I would try this out first yourself, or just research it online. Word of warning though. I had an older car that would run like complete SHIT for a couple of days after disconnecting the battery, mainly idling issues. I think it has to do with re-adjusting all the levels for optimum fuel to air ratios from the default "factory" settings that your cars computer resets to whenever you remove the battery. Not saying your Toyota would do this, but just a heads-up. Good luck. Hope this helps.