This is from a jock horror autoflower in fox farm soil with the fox farm line up of nutes. I think its a cal def but I want some advice. Its under a 400 watt hpe in a 3 gal pot. Its 3.5 foot tall. Please give me some advice on this problem. Its slowly going up the plant. Thanks
Thats whats killing me and my pH was way low. You testing with a good meter, a kit or soil meter? Calcium and Magneium lockout first. If your truely at that range i have heard of people using a product called cal-mag that people use with some success. I have read you want to make sure you add them together for best results. If your runoff pH is much below about 6.5 you could be locking out these nutes and adding them wont help. My plants that had this have become very weak and are barely standing with assistance. Make sure your pH is right, I wasted to much time trying to treat the specific nutrient symptom and trusted my creappy soil meter.
ya thats what I treated for the first two weeks, because my leaf tips were also burnt. Calcium and mag def together look allot like nute burn and they are the first two to lock out if the pH is low. I am just saying be sure about the pH before anything else. Nute burn usually starts at the tips and leaf edges.
The soil ph is 6.7-6.9 and I use a milwaulkee ph meter for the water. I tested the run off and it was low but wont it be lower than the ph it was before it goes through the soil? If not than how do you raise it.
I am using the pHep mete by Hanna. I am very new at this, but I just spent the last 2 days reading everything I could find on pH testing soil. Your surrent symptom appears like calcium def. And it may be just that. But if your using good soil then it should have had plenty of calcium, if your not then maybe it didn't and you do need to add some if your pH really is 6.8. Keeping it simple... if I watered with nutes and the runoff was 6.5 to 6.8 I would start by adding some cal-mag. If you start showing other nute defs then I would get more concerned about pH being off. The more complex view... When you water with pH 7.0 it will pass through your dirt taking on the pH of the soil. This will give you the easiest and accurate enough runoff measurement of just the soil itself. "They" say that the real soil ph is .2 below that measurement (.2 above if it measures above 7.0). The other way is to use 4 parts pH 7.0 water to 3 parts soil. Dont colelct the soil with your hand, use a clean spoon. Get some from deeper in the pot not just at the surface. Let soak and burn one. Strain the water from the dirt and test the pH. "They" say that this is accurate to .05 of the real soil pH. My pH was running 5.3 on the soil soaking test and 5.6 on the runoff. The usual runoff test they refer to here is the runoff of your fertilized water, or non fertilized water as the case may be, being 6.5 to 6.8. I was measuring 6.0 when I didn't use ferts. My fertilized water was 5.3 before watering and I didn't even bother watering with it until I get some pH up. So after I go through all that I realized the soil I used to tranplant just before I flipped, was causing an acid environment and I transplanted to good trusted soil. The funny part is the roots barely expanded to the new soil. The transplant was real easy and confirmed for me that the soil was the issue for me.