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What happened to my sweet little friend?

Discussion in 'Absolute Beginners' started by birdy, Jun 26, 2003.

  1. Hi folks,
    Do you have any clue what happened to Sue a 20 days Old Skunk sprout?
    Please feed in your bright ideas on the subject,



    Attached Files:

  2. HIGH All, oowww she's definitely hurting birdy...It looks like a fert burn, you been feeding her anything, if so a big no no. What medium you useing?
  3. High Unoit!

    It's been grown on a soil mix with pH 6.5 but as it is intended for bulb flowers maybe it's an over-fertilized soil!!
    I was afraid it would be over-watering...

    I guess I have to do an emergency transplant...

    Dr Birdy, Operating Room n3, patient is suffering...

    If anyone else can confirm

    Many thanx

    Peace to ya'll


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  4. Howdy, guys!
    Unoit, I would agree with you except for the tips of the leaves turning up. To me it looks (and sounds) like a pH problem causing a nute-lock out, particularly Mg, which can cause the necrotic leaf tips to turn up. Or Nitrogen, which starts yellowing at the bottom.
    Birdy, overwatering can start out with withered tips, but as it progresses, the whole plant starts to droop, as if it were thirsty! That is because it is suffering from root rot, and is not able to take up more water/nutes/O2). One way to check for root rot is to smell the bottom of the pot. If there is a sulphury odor (or any rank smells), you are rotting! To avoid overwatering, always let the medium get dry all the way to the root ball. This allows O2 to get in there.
    Meantime, check the pH of your run-out water, if it is between 6.5-6.9, check the ingredients of your medium and see if it offers a significant amount of Mg. If it is a bulb mixture it may have 0 nutes in it, as most bulbs love poor soil.
    C U L8R, G8Rs, I am the earth girl...{8^)
  5. High boyz and girlz!

    Well I have transplanted all of my buddies to a straight soil (no chemical no nutes no nonsense).
    I was amazed by the size of the roots, they had already gone through the peat containers especially one which was germinated only last week!!.

    I checked the bulb soil was enriched with a a so called "nitrophoska" fertilizer (NPK 12-12-17 + 2MgO).

    EarthGirl: is the nute lockout you speak about caused by high Mg (which would be explained by the above fert) or is the Mg locked out by a deficient pH?

    Otherwise I checked the pH yesterday evening and it was 6.3.

    Well now I just have to wait... would you cut the necrotic leaves? or just leave them alone...
    I think I have already stressed them as hell.



    Below a picture of the OR after transplant washing and watering:

    Attached Files:

  6. HIGH All, yes leave the little ones alone for a few days and see if things improve. No leave the leaves on and when they get a few more then maybe.
    Nutrient lockout is due to incorrect ph...it happens when your plant can not access specific, or all nutrients in the growing medium.

    Your drip emitters are not on All the time? When I have little seeders I water from the bottom and let them suck it up.
  7. Hi Unoit!
    Thanks for the input, I'll let them sleep well and have a rest.
    The picture was taken yesterday just after transplant this is why the pots look wet.

    For the drippers, nope not on all the time, just 15ml every 56hours (this time lapse allows the peat pot to dry out completely)
    I have a separate weekly timer to manage watering time (the whole systems costs ~50€,)


  8. HIGH All, right on birdy...hope your little seeders turn around for you. This is the time when these little sprouts need your loving the most...but not over loving them. Just like little babies they need the mom around All the time. Can't wait till a few days go by and see if they are improving.
  9. Bonjour, mes Amis,
    Bottom water is the best method for peat pots, just as unoit says. I am working on a bottom feeding set up myself for my next grow. As for removing foliage, it is not recommended, unless it is completely dry and crunchy.
    That bulb soil was very strong! I guess they never heard about bulbs in poor soil...The Dutch use a combination of coir and expanded clay pellets. No serious nutes there!
    Anyway, it was bad for the babies. My concern is that because the cotyledons were already used up, you may have to start feeding them again someday soon. Mean time check them every hour for signs of wilting. It is a common problem with transplanting. Determine if they need some rest from direct light while they recover from the traumas.
    pH 6.3 is a tad low for a soil grow.
    Was that your reading before trans or after? Good luck!
    Grow good stuff!
  10. Hi Mary friends!

    Ouh! my sweet little Sue does not seem to recover at all, the leaf tips begin to brown out.

    The pH 6.3 was in the older soil before transplant, the new soil is given a 6.5 by the manufacturer but I have not verified.

    Maybe the origin of the problem could be the water?

    As you can see on the pictures below, it does not seem to be a frank wilting, would you leave it in the shade (20 hours of fluo light /24h right now)?

    I prefer to modify one thing at a time and see if it improves or not, but now this method seems to lead to the death of my sweet Sue.

    I am still clueless...

    Best highs


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  11. High all,

    Here's a pic from Sue this afternoon.

    Death seems closer.

    Send ideas...help!


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    • sue.jpg
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  12. HIGH All, AAAHHHHH man not looking good!! Yes you don't want to be trying something different every day or so, little Sue has to adjust to the new soil and so on...maybe give her some time in the dark. Mine are Always on 18/6 (I suck enough juice). Let your water sit for 24hrs before giving it to little Sue. I hope as I'm sure you do your liitle one comes around.
  13. HIGH All, shit don't look good birdy...is she the only one having problems. Still looks like it's being over fertilized...maybe still some of the old soil around the roots and she keeps sucking it up. Are the lights real close so they'd burn her (stupid question but hey gotta ask) are they?

  14. Perhaps with low humidity and high air flow. This with an above average temp will dry easily harmed seedlings out pretty quick.

    I definately agree with UNOIT on leaving the water to settle. PH test it and if it is bad then there are all sorts of water purifiers and PH balancers on the market.
  15. Hi Unoit,
    Thanks for replying,
    a cousin of Sue (Daisy, she's a Durban lady) is beginning to show the same symptoms after undergoing last thursday transplant.
    The lights are quite close (about 7 cm, 3")

    I left some parts of soil around Sue's roots, as I didn't want to damage her (let's say 1 cm3), but rinced it in a glass of rainwater.

    I guess they will have to be in the dark closet for a couple of days? what do ya think about this medieval treatment?



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  16. HIGH All, no total darkness would really screw them up..just give them a few hours. What was the other soil you used? The only stuff we use is called Sunshine mix#4 and it PHed balanced and never had problems with it and it when into plastic pots not peat pots.

    I definitely agree with you Sureshot...so what do you think is happening here. I'm sure birdy would like All the respones she can get. Remember though she just transplanted.
  17. Hmm, the fact it is happening:

    a) to more than plant and;
    b) more than one strain

    would indicate someting fundamentally wrong in the grow environment IMHO.

    It seems to me many of the so called extra's add hassle to a grow, more variables if you like.

    Maybe you have nailed the problem here, what they are growing IN as opposed to the medium?

    You say the lights are about 3" away. What lights?

    If they're uncooled and not flouro then this is WAY to close for your babies.

    Seedlings and Flouro's are a good mix.

    HPS and seedlings/young clones not so good. IMHO I would keep a decent sized HPS at least a foot away from seedlings, preferably more.

    Give us some more info on your system generally.

    IMHO I'd also get rid of the drip feeder totally until you are more in tune with your environments needs and the needs of your particular strains in relation to that environment.

    There is no replacement for hands on knowledge.

    I've also found that sometimes attempting to rectify a problem that has gone too far will end up being more costly in both time and money than a restart, particularly at this early stage.

    Might be time to start germing a couple of seeds in case you have to call this one a lesson.

    But don't give up yet. They're hardy bastards cannabis plants.

    Must be why they call it weed.
  18. high guys,
    Birdy, what is your air temp around the lil darlins? I have seen excessive heat turn the tips up like that. It got so hot upstairs during the summer, I've had to give up because nothing would grow. Try refreshing them out of direct light for a day. Sureshot has a good point about the dehydration factor. I just don't see fluoros causing such an extreme reaction. Good luck birdy, hope they hang in there!
  19. Hi folks,

    To answer many questions :
    my setup is the following :

    light : 3 fluorescent tubes (18W 4Feet long, 1 Gro-Lux, 2 warm White, 2extra can be added) about 3 inches away from my babies.

    water : delivery is 15ml every 56 hours

    air : in a garage (lots of CO2 I guess as it's street level) a light air fan is circulating the air in this room.

    Temp : with 3 fluos on max:26C,min 21C, with the 5 fluos on max : 29C, min 21C.

    I had already started to germinate 3 more seeds of Durban and 3 more of Skunk, and they seem to develop faster now, after the transplant than their older sisters.

    Maybe the fert burn was the right origin of the problem and the two in more advanced level of maturation have been more affected.

    As you mentionned, when there is green on the leaf there is still hope...


  20. Doubt it's the problem causer but cool white is better for veg as it has an enhanced blue spectrum.

    Keep on keepin on.

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