Water Theory

Discussion in 'Growing Organic Marijuana' started by Kesey, Dec 25, 2012.

  1. #1 Kesey, Dec 25, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 25, 2012
    Merry Christmas all!

    So I've been having a little bit of micro-deficiency as of late, all due to my RO Water. I got to thinking about ways to correct it instead of adding bottles (Kelp just hasn't been enough, though I'm still continuing to experiment with ratios in search of a cure all) and I feel the best method would be this;

    Assuming my city water is at 400 PPM, if I was to add one gallon of RO water to one gallon of tap I would be lowering it to an acceptable 200 PPM...right? I started using RO water in an effort to combat excess calcium when I was bein a bottle baby, and its now biting me in the ass again since I've gone organic (and under applied rock dust's, I can only source azomite locally ($60 / 50 lbs online with S&H for glacial rock) and its $45 a bag so I just couldn't afford all that I needed.) Another question might even be would straight tap water be acceptable, though it's pretty hard. I'm not sure how calcium from the water would interact with already bio-available magnesium in the soil...with bottles it will nearly always binds.

    All help and opinions are appreciated! Thanks as always guys! :hello::hello:
  2. We are the opposite, very soft well water, it does not even read a ppm on our meter. So we are watering with a very good natural RO water. Will be interesting to see what they say. So far my plants are doing fine. We do have one fussy widow, recently it appears to have stopped doing the yellowing on the leaves.
  3. I don't measure ppm of my water or soil...never have, but ph runs right around 7.
    I can say that we have very hard water...calcium/lime buildup on everything. Ruins coffee pots, etc but I use water straight from the tap (though bubbled overnight to get rid of chlorine, etc) and I've never had an issue. This was my first all organic grow (used FF soil and bottles before) and it's been flawless really. Gotta love that :D
  4. When you were using FF and bottles before..did you ever experience lockout from calcium?
  5. Kinda pissed because this is my second time writing this but hey, I'm here to help:)

    Heres some disadvantages of mixing your RO water with your tap water to combat deficiencies. If you mixed your RO water with your 400 ppm tap water, yes you would end up with water of about 200ppm. The problem with this is that you DO NOT know the percentages of the micro nutrients within the water. It could be 100% calcium (though I doubt) or it could be 50% magnesium and 30% calcium ect ect. My point is that you don't know.

    My suggestion is that you use all RO water (your ladies will love it), and use a Cal-Mag supplement to introduce all the micro nutrients (at a balanced level). I was going to recommend Botanicare's Cal-Mag, but as you are going organic I would suggest General Organics (General Hydroponics Organic Line) Cal-Mag.
  6. I've fed it GO twice over a 2 week period, no results. I don't see why it would be effective either, its just dolomite lime, but its not available until its been cycled, almost no different than a top dress. It's got 1.0% soluble Mg but thats surely from the 10% molasses.
  7. Anyone have any experience with perhaps an azomite tea? I've heard of it being used in small amounts in ACT, but never as a nutrient tea...

  8. no

    I haven't, but I recently crushed dolomite lime, soaked it overnight and used it as a drench in my cal/mag deficient Tangerine Dream....turned her right around.
  9. Ratio?

  10. I used about (sadly I'm one of those people that never measures anything) a teaspoon to a gallon of water.

    I should also add the plant wasn't suffering from lockout, but rather too long in soil with obviously not enough calcium for it. No way I was repotting it, and didn't want to resort to a bottle (my first all organic grow). All the rest of the strains were fine, this one just needed MORE...thought it was worth a shot and thankfully it worked.
  11. I guess thats really where I'm still guessing, but I can only assume its not lockout...they start out just fine then 5-6 weeks in hits..I replaced my RO membrane and upgraded both filters (Which I clean before every watering) so I can only assume its working and thus not contributing to lockout...I think they're actually just running deficient...
  12. Well there's your problem. Your plants need micro nutrients, giving it to them only twice a week and you wonder why you have problems.

    I wouldn't think it's your RO machine, most growers with RO machines don't give it as much attention as you, so props. And I think you are correct in saying you have deficiencies.

    Suggestion: Up Cal-Mag.

    Thoughts? Opinions? Comments?
  13. #13 Kesey, Dec 26, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 26, 2012
    Well my next course of action is to top dress with another tbls. of dolomite, watering it in with a stronger kelp tea. After that I'll up a cal/mag dosage. Note that the first time I fed CaMg it was at 1 tsp per gallon (recommended light dosage) and then then 2nd at 2 tsp per gallon..continue at 2 or bump it up to 3 for one feeding?
  14. I"m not sure if you understand what I'm trying to get across. You do not feed Cal-Mag only on feeding days, you add it to your RO water. If its a "water day", you water with Cal-Mag infused RO water, and if it a feed day, you feed with your solution of nutrients/cal-mag/RO water.
  15. I'm convinced at this point they really are just deficient, and I see it worsen every time I water without some sort of cal/mag in there...I'm going to do as you suggest for 2 weeks then work to every other then I'll cut it out and flush in case any of it got built up.
  16. #16 Insightful Eyes, Dec 29, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 29, 2012
    If you do what I suggest for 2 weeks and it works, then I wouldn't change it.

    Remember, if you flush. Replace your nutrients immediately after. Other wise your flushing the plant as well as well as the soil.

    Subbed FYI, would like to know how it goes.
  17. #17 Kesey, Dec 29, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 29, 2012
    Appreciate the advice man. I'm actually in a completely organic soil (with apparently not enough cal/malg :rolleyes:) so the CaMg is the only thing I've ever fed. I top dressed em like 2 weeks ago and awoke to see them quite happy...so I can assume it was 2 things...the tbs of dolomite I top dressed and the large amount of molasses (containing Ca/Mg) in the lactic mixture I watered em with...not that I'll repeat this but instead another possible hint that it is just mg deficient...

    EDIT: Molasses also has alot of potassium, calcium, and an even larger amount of iron...which all work together alot within the plant, pretty convenient. So I guess the large amount of molasses in CaMg combined with dolomite is pretty effective...but I think it needs a higher dosage (Or at least I do)
  18. +subbed
    curious minds need to know;)
  19. Remember, if you flush. Replace your nutrients immediately after. Other wise your flushing the plant as well as well as the soil.

    How would I go about flushing the plant?

  20. There are a number of clearing agents for this purpose. Botanicare, GH, as well as many others. If you use one of these they have they're own directions.

    If you're trying to use just water, do not use 0ppm/RO water. It's hard for me to explain with the proper terms (Ill probably make a detailed guide once I stop procrastinating), but it better to flush with a solution that has a small ppm level.

    As far as the actual flushing, measure the ppm of your flush/solution, flush your plant, and then measure your runoff. Once your runoff stops being a higher ppm than your flushing solution, your soil has been flushed.

    Remember, replace your nutrients!

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