Water cooled lights?

Discussion in 'Growing Marijuana Indoors' started by Dendrite, Jun 6, 2009.

  1. Greetings GCers,

    Has anyone tried water cooled lights versus air cooled lights? I don't mind the extra complexity of the pump and radiator if it means that I can move the light just a little closer and maximize efficiency and penetration.

    Something like this: Products

    They say you can move the light closer, but has anyone used one and can verify this?
  2. High there, that system looks groovy but it also looks expensive. I have not used water cooled lights, I think I'd rather spend the extra money on more toys.
  3. Heard of them but haven't used them. They work well, but I don't know how much closer than an air-cooled you will get a water-cooled. That's a lot of money for essentially a cool tube and socket. I think you would be better to put that money into a 2nd light fixture or higher wattage on the first one plus stronger fan on the cool tube.
  4. I understand what you mean about getting more lights first. But this would be a case of already having as many lights as possible for safety and security reasons - probably 2 x 1000W, I'm still in the planning phase.

    I'm planning a CGE + CO2. If I air cool the lights all that heat stays in the grow room and makes for more work for the cooling system. With water cooling I could easily route the tubing outside the room but still keep the room sealed. And if I could move the lights closer and maximize efficiency that would be a big bonus.
  5. I don't understand -- the whole point of air cooling the lights is to keep the heat from ever entering the grow room. By air-cooled I'm referring to either an air-cooled hood or a cool tube, either of which is a sealed system that runs air over the bulb and out of the grow space.
  6. Ok, I see what you mean - taking outside air, cooling the bulbs, and exhausting it back outside. Do the air cooled hoods have a really good seal to prevent any air exchange with the grow room? If so, I guess the only difference would be how close you could get the lights. Though thanks to the inverse square law, that's still nothing to scoff at.
  7. Air cooled tubes (cool-tubes) or hoods should be cool to touch. I can grab my cool-tube and hold it with bare hands. Water seems to be a waste of time and light if you ask me. I have trouble with my lamp getting so cold it frosts over, or creats condensation (like a cold soda can). The only reason I dont let the tops touch the glass is I dont want them to hog all the light.



    Below is my cool-tube starting to frost over.

  8. Interesting. How many watts are your lights?

    Also, how would water cooling be a waste of light?

  9. Having to travel through the liquid reduces the light intensity.
  10. How much does it reduce intensity? It's only an inch or two of a clear liquid. If it only reduces the intensity by a fraction of a percent but it means that you could move a 1000W light ~4-6 inches closer, it's still a definite advantage. If it doesn't mean you could move a big watt light any closer then obviously it's a waste.
  11. I have a 400W HID in a cool-tube. It does the job connected to a 4" duct fan.
  12. Well the consensus seems to be that I shouldn't bother. I suppose that I will just use a 8" ducting and a really powerful fan. I can always change it later if it's not cool enough.

    Thanks for the input guys.
  13. I wouldn't give up on h2o cooled lights just yet. I am seriously contemplating using them, too. I have used air cooled hoods for years, and there are significant hassles with air, too. The fans are noisy, and use power to run. I don't know if they use more or less power than the h2o pump, but it should be easy to check that. Also, the hoods are never completely air tight, and you have to tape em up tight if you are going to use co2. Then, the glass gets coated with whatever you spray in your room, and you have to cut the tape off to clean it. The ducting is a nuicense, always in the way, and it rips when you try to service the lights. I have a large water tank that i could put a heat exchanger in and use it to both cool my lights and warm my room during the lights off time in the winter.

  14. If it creates condensation it's got to be because the outside temp is subzero temperature right? If you live in a place where the temp is 95 degrees, it's hard to keep your lamps cool. Not to mention the extreme noise from the fans needed to cool a system like that. Impossible if you live in a downtown area.

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