Sounds pretty good if you have some neg pressure IE when door is cracked the room pulls it shut you are in good shape. Put up the Vinyl give yourself a little intake and i bet things go well for you. Post some pics when you are all said and done wouldn't mind adding a bathroom conversion question to the 1st post.
Unbelievably helpful post with many good links Q : Does anyone know what kind of watts a 6" inline duct fan would consume? http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
One of the reasons I picked the S&P was power consumption 54W on low 65W on high 6" Vortex was about 100W See specs here http://www.fjevans.com/fjeec/images/td-specifications.pdf
Here is what they have on their site, just click specifications: Air Volume (CFM) : 160 ft³/min Amperage (amps) : .35 A Assembled Depth (in.) : 6 in Assembled Height (in.) : 6 in Assembled Width (in.) : 6 in Brand/Model Compatibility : Inductor 6" In-Line Duct Fan Color/Finish : Gray Energy Star Compliant : No Heat : N/A Item Weight : 2 lb Voltage (volts) : 110 V Watts : 30 W
Hey man, thanks a ton. You really helped me with my cab startup. When I return home this summer, around August, I will most definitely set this up and spread around some pics, advice, the whole 9 yards. To anyone wondering, Bohbo helped me figure out the ventilation I would need for a 1.5x1.5x3.5 foot cab. Heres is the message I asked him what he thought I would need for the cab in the attached diagram and asked him if I could use a vent over my passive intake to avoid just having a huge random hole. To anyone who needs advice, this is your man so spread some love.
^^^^^ Kind words don't go unnoticed by me YODA, much appreciated. Purpose of this thread is to help so glad I accomplished that.
wow guys this is almost exactly what i have in mind for mine. the cab i have built is just about the same dementions. so my question is...whats the deal with having the carbon scrubber in the shelf space instead of mounted on the outside of the exhaust fan? i love this idea cause i feel like this makes the cab even more stealthy . but will it work? can you pull the dank air through the filter then to the outside of the cab or does it need to be directly mounted so the fan can actively push the air also thanks for the HEPA filter idea i'll definately use that
If everything else is sealed up air tight (top shelf) then yes you can you might lose a little CFM due to minor leaks you can't control. But essentially the intake for the fan would come from the carbon filter. I would personally put ducting between the 2 and just hang the carbon in corner from ceiling since it won't be any lower than your hood even at highest. Short answer yes it 'should' work I would think. Worth a try none the less since it would be extremely easy to adapt design with those holes.
Update** I kept the door on the hinges and just added the black and white vinyl on the door frame with Velcro. When my lights are on I leave a good 10 inch space at the bottom (just more Velcro) with a sweet fan from wally world (Walmart) blowing fresh air inside. When its bedtime I just drop the bottom vinyl and its GTG (good to go). The amount of fresh air I'm pushing inside forces the hot air up and out the opened bathroom exhaust. Temp stays about 80 degrees Fahrenheit even over the weekend when I was out of town and over 105 degrees outside Good help simple fix. Probably will need to make changes when they start stinking. Squirrel with a carbon filter probably. Thanks I'd post pictures but to paranoid about the digital fingerprint photos leave
hmmm i guess, for stealth's sake, its worth a shot. i mean if it doesnt work i can always just take out the filter from the shelf space and put it on top of the cab where the exhaust comes out. it'll be a little extra work but i like it cause it keeps the cab lookin more stealth. i'll be making a thread with mine probably early july. still collecting materials and working on ideas and constructing.
Ok I'm gonna hit you with a hypothetical regarding ventilation if thats alright, OP. Now I know the only way to know for sure is to experience it first hand and learn from it. So that's not the response I'm looking for. I currently have a 1K core coil ballast firing my eye super HPS. Location is in the basement (below ground level in a spare bedroom closet 20 sq ft) where ambient temps never get above 70 during the day (lights run 8pm - 8am during flower). Temps when lights are on are 73 outside of closet and anywhere from 75-80 in grow room. Current ventilation is an Xtra sun A/C hood 6" with only one side hooked to ducting connected to 270 CFM fan connected to a CAN 66. So 270 CFM cools light and room is what I'm getting at. Side note, my current exhaust does not leave the room, but I do crack the window which gets plenty of fresh air into the bedroom. I am about to use the whole 10 x 10 bedroom as I am now collective , with all the info I gave you about my environment, do you think it is feasible to run 6 x 600 watt digitals, no light mover over that space and only use a 700+ CFM fan as an exhaust, relying on passive intake, for the entire room? I would like to use parabolic reflectors for this round. I would hope to have no A/C or CO2 burners until I max out my garden's potential without them. Again even in the summer when it can be 90 outside the room will remain @ 68 if nothing is on if that tells you anything about my situation. Sorry for lengthy post and thanks in advance for any input you may have.
Given that it is a basement and it sounds like it remains rather cool regardless I say you have a pretty good chance. If you aren't going to use sealed hoods I would say you are going to have heat problems in that space. I would run air cooled hoods instead of AC. Less KWH on your bill for sure. Your environment makes me think it might work just fine but I don't want to it will and it won't. I had 2 non air cooled hoods and squirrel cage fans and my temps were up to 90-98 with that setup. I got 2 air cooled hoods (Super Sun 2) and half the wattage of fans (S&P TD-150 and 2x TD-100X) and now temps range 68-75 during that same season. EDIT:: I am going camping for a few days so hopefully any additional help will be answered here before I return.
do you use both an intake fan and an exhaust fan? if so do the numbers have to match up? I only ask because i have a 400 cfm intake fan and a 265 cfm exhaust fan and was wondering if i can hook them up together of if it will cause problems, or should i choose one or the other?
That sounds wrong to me. I would do the 400 CFM fan venting hoods (lights on) pulling air from other room (assuming you have air cooled hoods) and have the 265 venting room with filter (24/7). Or just use the 400 CFM 24/7 with filter venting room with no intake FAN just passive. See the "Got Intake" picture on original post.
Hi all. Great thread, I had many questions on ventilation and this thread has helped a lot so far, I of course am still a bit confused on how I should run my room. I have some questions I hope I can be helped with, and thanks to anyone in advance to taking the time to help. Setup: a bathroom in an old pool hut, 5'W x 12'L x 8'H 10,000BTU portable A/C is in the corner of the room, with exhaust running to the window. The window has been made completly light proof. I have one fan resting at the top of the makeshift ceiling (just plywood I nailed up to conceal the room), as I cut a 24"x24" square in the celaing, and laid a basic box fan on top of it, pulling air out of the room. The grow area, and 200W of CFL's are in the section of the room right below the extracter fan. I have another fan in the middle of the room blowing into the grow area and onto the plants. With the A/C on, there is a big negative pressure inside as the door when cracked a few inches wnats to pull back and close itself. So I have someissues in that the A/C is in one corner of the room at a low point, extracting air from inside the room, and my original extracter fan is on the opposite end of the room, at a hight point. Basically I have no idea what I'm doing. I was suprised to see that the negative pressure was a good thing, it was the reason I was searching around on the forum tonight, but thought I was going to find it wa a bad thing. Anyhow... Below is a horribly crude image, this is basically the top view of the room. The A/C sets on the ground in the corner, vented to the window in the same corner. The room is semi-divided by 2 half-walls, (the section to the right is an old shower). The lights hang from the plywood celing in the shower section, with plants intended to go there underneath. Fan 1 is mounted to the celing, extracting air. Fan 2 sits on the ground between the 2 half-walls, blowing into the sower section. Something is wrong here, as the A/C I knw sucks air, as well as Fan 2, is this ok being on opposite ends of the room? Any suggestions are GREATLY appreciated, I know I'm doing this wrong somehow, and looking to your knowledge of this to help. THANKS!!
I read through everything and I am not sure what your specific question is but by the diagram you look okay. You have cool dry AC air on one side that is being pushed over the plants before being exhausted out. If the temps aren't bad then I don't see the problem really. If the problem is when the AC is off you may need more passive intake. Sounds like the AC may be exhausting more than your exhaust fan though. Worst case you could use a bigger exhaust fan, to help more air move from AC to plants.
How can I cool 2 400 watt hps running close to each other, ducting will be connected to both lights then out the box, I have a separate ventilation system, but I don't know how to set the fans, how big of fans, if I could use one biggger, or better off having a fan for each hood? Thanks
Not sure what your ambient temps are like but I would use a single inline TD-100X or TD-150 whichever will fit your hoods. The 4" should be plenty for 2x 400W if you don't have wild ambient temps, 6" would definitely be more than enough to get the job done and would do it outstandingly just louder.