http://thelaughingfrogfarm.com/2013/02/10/dont-lime-your-phosphate/ Ok GCO, I am looking at some local farms and I see this article! I looked into it b/c he gives classes on aquaponics using vegetarian tilapia fish poo for nutrients! This is truly organic hydro. ANYWAYS, im about to add the dolo to my bale of peat but now I am scared to do so!!! what is yalls professional opinion? haha
The science is sound, but what it doesn't say is that elemental P is highly unstable to begin with, and will precipitate with just about any cation that's available in solution. Most of the P in soil is bound up as solid precipitate in the form of phosphates. It's there, just not in a soluble form. That's why a healthy microbial population in your soil is so important. Soil with a good CEC is also important. Microbes continually break down the phosphates in the soil, liberating the cations to be adsorbed by CEC (or the plant), and allowing the now soluble P to be absorbed by the plant. If for some reason the P is not absorbed, it will react again with free cations in solution, and precipitate once again. I think mycorrhizal fungi are mostly responsible for cycling P. They actually absorb it themselves, and them mainline it straight to the plant, thereby keeping it out of solution so it doesn't precipitate again. But don't quote me on that. I'm still doing research. I don't know if you've ever come across any of LD's old posts, or if you've seen them reposted by Jerry (I think). But LD was famous for saying something like, "You don't need to add Phosphorous to your soil. There's plenty there already". The above explanation is why. So don't believe the hype. Calcium is a VERY important mineral to have in your soil. And in rather large amounts, I might add. It is essential for the absorption of other minerals across the cell membrane. It acts as a "carrier". WOW!!! Those guys in that link are using partially decomposed mulch from Hurricane Ike? Man, I can't imagine how full of toxins that stuff must be. Not in my garden!
lol well if they were organic back then wouldnt the mulch be ok and starting to break down? IDK but thanks for the speedy reply. I will mix as planned without freaking out What is your opinion on how long I need to let it sit before I add worms and seedlings to my peat moss-dolomite mix? I am mixing the dolo and peat for bedding in a worm farm, then adding perlite to a bit of that to use as my (almost) inert mix for planting seedlings into. Basically, how long do I need to let it sit before I can add living things to peat and lime?
"I will mix as planned without freaking out " Good call. "You don't need Phosphates in your garden" - LD Lime, especially dolomite, is one of those items that some like and some don't. However you go about it you'll want a calcium source in your soil. I don't use lime, I use lobster as my calcium source because it contains Chitin and I want that in my garden. Worm castings have calcium in it too. You'll be fine - don't sweat it. J
Add the perlite to the worm bedding also. Pretty much the same thing for worm bedding AND seedling mix. Good for rooting clones too, if you go that route. You can add living things right away if pressed for time. The peat isn't going to break down and become overly acidic before the lime has time to work. Nothing really happens till water is added and neither (lime or peat), is instantaneous in how they react. I mix mine ahead, but it's an ongoing deal. Like, "I'm going to need some bedding/seedling mix/clone mix, in a month or so" and make up a couple of 5 gallon buckets of it. But, if I needed it right now, that's ok also, because the peat isn't going to get all acidic before the lime buffers it in a week or 2. The pine bark mulch is even slower than the peat AFA the lime buffering. Wet
As always, the good people of GCO always ease my mind. (Especially you and wet) Also, pointswest told me that I can eventually just substitute quality organic humus for peat in future mixes. Right now though this compressed bale is going to last me a bit I ordered worm casting from that Minnesota worm link you posted awhile back. Hopefully in the future I can just use good compost/EWC and forgo the harvested peat moss altogether? therefore eliminating the need for dolomite lime?
You really ought to get your first batch mixed and in use before you go "forgoing" and "eliminating" anything. Wet