Trunk Grow in beginning phases - Need some help

Think you can run 18/6 the whole veg phase, i have no idea about this but i would think the light change would do more harm them good stress wise. But do not take my word for it, i would just have researched that part a bit more.

You do not need a carbon scrubber for intake unless you live in London and the year is somewhere between 1750 to 1850 I would personally just go for passive air intakes and two active exhausts and maybe even spoil myself by going a MH and HPS with a digital ballast that you can just swap bulbs on when flower hits you, and make a DIY Cooltube or air sealed hood and put one exhaust drawing air from the cab, and one exhaust drawing air from the reflector. Either the reflector got a passive air intake as well, or you just draw the air from the cabinet. If you get another air intake for the hood you wont need a carbon scrubber for that one, and will save some airflow, but do the math on how much fan power you need to change out the air in the cab, maybe you need them both running cab duty, you can easily find a simple math formula to calculate the perfect airflow.

It seems your box is split in half base wise. Mount a base that fits both halfs on one of them, so you dont need to move pots around. That way you can implement a ScrOG. They are real easy after you managed to build one. I prefect having it in metal as wires and frames are a pain both to build and to last. When doing ScrOG you just start the flower when you've reached your screen goal. Remember to light proof the vents etc.

Looks like a very air tight and sturdy construction. Good luck!

Edit: Running off to work so wont reply in a while. Hopefully some guru with way more experience then me visits in the mean time.

 

Hehehe, yeah im a newbie myself. But its fun to answer things i think i know Hopefully a guru of some sorts will come and rescue your day like one did for me.

To bad about not having the funds, shit costs a lot. Just finished installing my 2nd muffler for my big ass fan. SUCK IT! ^^

On a more serious note i would still recommend using two exhausts and passive air intakes. The passive air intakes really does their jobs, and its much easier to create a negative pressure(more air being sucked out then in). This will help suck the door in place for light proofing, will make sure even if you suck at light proofing and manage to make some air cracks else were in the box NO air from the box will go out that crack, they will only work as passive air cracks sucking air in. This means ALL the grow air will pass the coal scrubber, and ALL the grow air will be cleaned. So you do not have to worry about smell when the doors are closed.

For the base i was speaking about its just cutting a square that is as large as both the floors(both sides of the box when opened) from plywood or whatever you got lying around. If the material you are using is a bit flexiable and might not carry a lot of weight just put some metal pipes or whatever with the same length under it to support the surface. You can do the same with the top so that you can arrange light fixtures etc in the middle of it.

For a ScrOG just drill two rails or bars or PCV pipes or whatever on each side of the walls. Make some holes in it, lay chicken wire, they also sell plant grids i most garden stores or some of them super nice shelfs/basket things they got in all kind of shapes and sizes, you can all ways just cut a bit and add some yourself to make the holes have the correct size. aim for 2-2.5 inches squares. If you check my journal in the sig you can see i made mine from some cheap shelf i bought, and just cut the wires i did not need, and added the once i needed for a perfect metal scrog that can hold its weight and be used over and over without being damaged.

Just place that screen ontop of the bars/rails or whatever that got a few holes in it and secure it with some zip ties or whatever. When you open up the trunk everything will just stay on one side while the other works as a door. This will give you GREAT work space when working with the plant.

A scrog can be anywhere from a couple of inches from the soil/hydro to over a foot. Most recommend 8-12 inches so that its easier to work with the plant under the screen.

The idea of it is that you veg the plant until its close to the screen height. You put on the screen(cant have it there when working with cfls, and just blocks light for no reason when working with HID). and then let the plant grow into the screen, you then pull the growth that goes to far above it back under a new hole in the screen in the direction you want that branch to go, and so on, working with the branches to make the plant into the shape of a flat square or whatever shape your scrog is in. This way the plant can grow horizontal instead of vertical and it will give you a even canopy that will get the most out of the light. With CFL's that dont penetrate any deep at all , LST or ScrOG can be great ways to increase your yield several times. The nice thing about a ScrOG is that the screen is allready there, and you really do not need to know much to pull the plant branches into different holes. You start flowering when 70-85 of the screen is full, because the plant will grow some at the beginning of flowering and will fill out the remaining space, this way you do not have to deal with overgrowth. It can be smart to pull some of the side branches of the main branches, back to the center of the scrog. The center often becomes less bushy because many pull all of the branches away and forget to pull some back. When its time to harvest you just chop the whole thing down and pull out the branches so that the scrog is ready to use again.

 

oh and i am not sure what you are talking about with the flexi pipes. I hope your not going to recycle the air? You need to pull in fresh air so that the plant can get co2. You just add a plain fan inside the cab to blow at the plant and cycle the air.

I really did not understand the flexi pipes part. But if its what i think it is i have no idea why you would want to just constantly cycle the same bad air inside of the cab?

Note: I am not a go to guy on most areas by the way. I am quite new to growing myself, but i have read tons of posts so i am just repeating what i have read :O No first hand experience to brag about yet from this guy! ^^

 

The intakes should be on the bottom of the cab, preferably at the floor under the canopy but anywhere low should work, then you put you active air exhausts at the top, preferably above lights or heat sources. Do not matter much as long as the active exhaust is up top because that is where hot air gathers. And the passive intakes low, so that the air flows trough the whole room.

The passive intakes are just holes, you need to light proof them. many small are better then one big i think. The total size of passive air intakes should be around twice that of active air exhaust.

 

Hey Blades,
An idea for your passive intakes (no fans) is to buy two dry vent pipes and use a furnace filter portion on the inside of the cab that will help keep the light out. Not sure where your trunk is going to be while you grow but the darker the area the better during your 12/12. This has some good potential if you grow to 12-14" then flip the lights to 12/12 you'll fill that trunk right up lol. Another idea which seems perfect for this set up is all lights on one side bottom to top if you can find a two bulb t5 or floresents then supplement with the cfls woot woot I think that would be a nice combo. Just my thoughts and ideas. Cheap place to find some stuff is recylers we have one here and I picked up a two bulb t5 for 10.00. You'd probably get two plus zips out of that old trunk.
Cheers

 

sounds good, i am a fellow trunk grower.. haha

well a road case, its a big trunk. 44"x15"20" something like that..

so im down to see how yours goes! good luck!