I transplanted my baby 2 days ago and everything went smoothly. I transplanted from an off brand organic potting soil that was not very good (hence why my plant has grown so slowly along with other known reasons) to fox farms happy frog soil. She's sitting under one 5000k 1200 lumen CFL about 3.5 inches below the light (also aware this needs upgrading..this is in the works). I know my light will suffice until I can get my LED ordered and received. My water is a normal pH(6.8). I'm also waiting until the pot is extremely light/dry 1-2in down (finger/knuckle test). Over the past 48 hours yellow/brown spots have began to develop on the newer leaves. These weren't there before when she was in the junk soil, so why is it happening now and how can I fix it? Temps stay between 75-78F with the light on and around 71-72 with the light off. There's also a fan circulating air in the box and good ventilation. Thanks guy Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
beginning of magnesium lockout. flush with quarter strength nutes until that stops and new green is good. GFP Sent from my SM-G600FY using Tapatalk
I'm using AFF 5•1•1. I am also planning on ordering FF trio package in near future but for now is the AFF okay to use at quarter strength for this? Thanks for the tip either way Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
When in doubt, flush it out The only thing that kinda sucks about doing a flush now, is that's a little plant in a large volume of soil, meaning it's gonna stay wet for a while which has the potential to lead to other problems Boom4200 winter spring grow journal Boom4200 winter spring grow journal
I can avoid that by only watering around the plant instead of the entire pot for now correct? Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
not really ..your in a predicament that's touchy ..you need to flush 100% of the medium to get the cation ratios closers to stable. BUT doing this will cause other issues like fungus knats and other flying bugs...SO Solution 1 is get some DE powder and sprinkle on top of the medium after the flush...this will kill any insects that come in contact by shredding them apart like glass. also set up some sticky traps and expect to see some creatures trying to make a home on top of the wet medium. good luck GFP Sent from my SM-G600FY using Tapatalk
pH is too high (soil range 6.3 to 6.7) and it does matter. If that's your "when to water test," you're overwatering badly. Now that you have this small plant in this huge container, better stay away from the water for a couple of weeks at least. The correct way to tell if your plants need water is to lift the container and ONLY when you feel NO WEIGHT, is it time to water again. If you feel weight, there is still moisture contained within the soil and plant does not need more. They hate having the roots saturated constantly and that's what you do when you use the knuckle test to decide when to water. It's going to take your plant a few days to form roots in this new soil it's now in. The soil also contains more than enough nutrition to feed your plant for the first few weeks, so stay away from any nutes you might be inclined to give. If you will leave the plant alone, water ONLY when it's allowed to get nearly dead dry with water in the correct range pH wise and let it do it's thing, it'll be fine. The yellowing or discoloration you're seeing now will straighten out in time as long as you get your tending habits in line. Good soil, light and water will carry you 90% of the way through veg. The plant knows what to do and needs very little help from the grower. Only after it's had a chance to use up most of the nutes in the soil it's in now will it need to be fed. Nutes feed plants; LIGHT grows plants. Growth and yield are directly proportional to light (wattage and spectrum). Each plant needs the best lighting it can get for each life cycle but most especially during flower. Always look at new growth to determine whether you have issues with your plant. Anything happening on old growth represents time already past and nothing you do can change what's happening to it. If you have strange coloration changes or things going on with new growth, then you have issues. Take the time to read up on the plant, what it goes through, what it needs during different cycles of life, etc. The more you know about what you're doing here BEFORE you do it, the better outcome you'll have in the end. Learn about the nutrition of the plant and what it's needs are during it's life cycles if you want to use nutes to your advantage. Make sure you provide enough wattage to force the plant to grow and produce during flower or you're going to be highly disappointed with the yield at harvest. Best of luck and happy growing. TWW
Considering I don't really have adequate lighting at the moment (ordering LED tonight to have in next few days) and have been running an 18/6 schedule, will it hurt my plant to switch to a 24/0 schedule and then back to 18/6 when I get the LED? Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
no 18/6 is still a Veg cycle ..and you can go up to 24 and back down both are still Veg cycles. I HAVE NO CLUE WHAT TWW is saying about the ph for SOIL being 6.3 to 6.7??? first off 6.3 DOESN'T FACTOR IN hydro or soil neither does 6.4...those 2 numbers are the grey area of feeding cannabis .too LOW for soil and too high for hydroponics.. the acceptable range for soil STARTS AT 6.5 and goes all the way to 7.2 the PH FOR HYDRO and this includes coco ...STARTS AT 5.5 and tops off at 6.2 ...NO WHERE on this planet will you find using 6.3 for soil is good advice. NO CLUE what that is saying (again) GFP Sent from my SM-G600FY using Tapatalk
