so im a beggining surfer on the gulf of mexico.....and normally waves dont get that big, so on mlk day when we had 6 7 and 8 ft waves. i had to go out and try the outside break....big to me, a 5 ft wave has triple the power of a 3 ft wave, or something like that, any ways i see a nice shoulder size go by.....i wait for the next and its shaped better and a lil taller and i wait once more and the mama jama wave of the day came rolling through like a 7 ft close out and i charged and i paddled, and that sucker started to grab me and the next thing i know im flying 6 ft over the sea and i dont know where my surfboard is and im heading for a rough landing........said landing happens and it is literally like being a sock in a washing machine. your limbs are everywhere....a gallon of water filled with bird shit just went up ur nose, its pitch black and loud, and then when the ultimate violent "im alive " experience is over you swim to the surface......ne ways i reccomend surfing and crashing on waves and also riding them whichever way you can.......when its all said and done u feel Alive!!!,
This past Summer in Mission Beach I waited for the perfect wave for 2 hours. needless to say I finally got it and it was the perfect barrell and a left at that. I rode it all the way in for a good 3-400 yards. Everything goes by in a blink of an eye but, every moment, every second of that wave goes by in slow motion at the same time as if you were frozen in time in another dimension. Get Radical, get spiritual. Let the energy flow into you and the ride will never end
slow mo and nothing like it in the world.....thats the ride.......Ive accidentally found the sprituality of it.....Its a good thing........
Nothing beats it. A force of nature where we in essence aren't supposed to be in and its crazy that most of our world is ocean and we know so very little about it. The ocean gives me a euphoric feeling unlike any other and that one of no drug could ever deliver