The new BHO discussion thread

Discussion in 'Harvesting and Processing Marijuana' started by SIRSOG, Feb 13, 2012.

  1. I am going to try making some everclear shatter. Rosin presses are so expensive.
     
  2. Well I value your opinion so where do I get a rosin press? Can you give me a little mini description of the process? or a link?
     
  3. #6603 Joker1121, Sep 6, 2018
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2018
    I just Google Rosin Press. Here is one example. You tube has videos. Rosin Tech Go™
    With the rosin press with heat and pressure you press the oil from the buds. No purge necessary.
     
  4. #6604 billlyblanks420, Oct 13, 2018
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2018
    Has anyone ever washed the left over bud from a bho run in everclear. I recently did a run in a closed pressure column and I put a finer micron screen over the one that it came with, it caused the butane to leak out of the seal so I wasn't able to soak the material for as long as I wanted. When itook it out there were still crystals on the bud. I guess my question is would butane and everclear create a bad chemical reaction
     
  5. Turned out nice though!!
    Dehumidified the bud to 30% till it was crispy dry and broke it apart, most of it turned very fine with some smaller peanut sized buds that got packed tight into the column
     

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  6. #6606 HispanicPanic, Jan 7, 2019
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2019
    Yes. you can still make potent rso washing leftover material used to blast, in everclear. i do it all the time. And i used to open blast into a big ass jar. than pour through a 100micron screen into a bigger jar that had a few hundred ML of everclear 190 proof on the bottom. put the jar in a warm water bath to evaporate the butane and when its gone your leftover with the hash sittin at the bottom in the alcohol. cap it throw it in freezer for 48 hours (dewaxing/winterizing.) than filter through unbleached coffee filter into pyrex. let evaporate, scape it up and boom youll have pure CLEAN honey oil. pull and snap style. :) well after you throw it in the vaccum chamber at least. oh another thing, most butane has whats called "mystery oils" inside the cans. leftover machining lubricants when they welded the cans shut. use Ntane brand butane already been distilled and comes in food grade aluminum cans. i used a closed loop system so i can reuse it over and over but it is pricy for open blasting. HOWEVER MY POINT, mystery oils and NOT dewaxing/winterizing WILL CAUSE NUCLEATION; budder, crumble..what have you...IT IS NOT HEALTHY.
     
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  7. #6607 Hemp360, Jan 14, 2019
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2019
    Hey I'm a rookie in bho and I need tips, any veteran extractors please DM me.
     
  8. Ok I am fairly new to concentrates, been a outdoor grower since 94 and also have 5 solid years indoors with tremendous results . Well I never knew it went beyond bubble hash. I had to take a “vacation “ for 5 years and now I’m loving where thc is going. My buddy has a press and we make rosin . Love it, all the carts available with bho however much I love them, he is a purist. Well recently I got ahold of some killer alien og and bought a half to press. But a week later and I can’t get time or he can’t . So I am going to blast it. I bought a small tube but I put about a half in it, ground but not too fine. And packed it really tight. Now I’m nervous to run it, thinking possibly the butane might not push thru and escape out the entry hole. Also I plan on just purging with hit water til 80% butane is gone and then storing in jar to develop the thc diamonds and Terp sauce... again this is my first time with butane or blasting . I am not stupid and I don’t need simple instructions like go out side. Really hoping someone reads this and can tell me if half a column run should be packed tonight towards top or loose , kinda tight?? Thanks


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  9. #6609 Wizard cabbage, Feb 12, 2019
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2019
    I turn all my trim and small bud into bho .After the hot water bath i put it in the oven on low to drive out the tiny bit remaining butane . Last run I used a ultra clean propain /butane mix it came out very potent and clean .
     
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  10. Hey guys, first time poster here. I’m not stranger to good flower or concentrates here in CA, and I’ve been making BHO for some time now with a variety of different types of material in a variety of grades. I’m here to learn more and share what I’ve learned as well.

    Intro:
    I have a 2’ stainless blast column, with NPT fittings and ball-valved ends, I currently use just butane 5x or higher, and will be moving to a butane/propane mixture as soon as my master case is gone this week.

    It’s mated with a 1.5 gallon vacuum chamber and a 3.6 CFM 1 stage vacuum pump. I’ve also added a digitally controlled heat pad stuck to the bottom of my pot, supposed to be accurate to a half a degree.

    Lately I’ve been lucky enough to have an excess of both quality trim and fresh uncured buds. Making sure to freeze my material ahead of time before I use it for optimum results.

    Blasting:
    With my bottom cap on and clamped to the base, factory screen in place, I break up the buds (I really don’t spend too much time and break them up super small, wet buds I don’t break up at all) and fill my tube, packing it down several times throughout the filling process, the dryer the material, the more I pack the hell out of it.

    Once it’s absolutely full, I set on my top end cap and lock the top v-band clamp.

    I use cans of 5x and better butane cans currently and press them into the NPT fitting with adapter #5 in place. While

    I blast I leave the bottom valve open to release air and pressure until I see the very first signs of butane appear at the bottom then I quickly shut the bottom valve and continue blasting butane into the tube until it’s reached maximum pressure and butane in the tube. I’ll usually let it sit for roughly a minute before opening the bottom valve, just enough to piss a couple ounces of butane out into a silicone pie pan and then I shut the valve again. I set #1 aside on a small reptile heat pad (under 90*-100*or so) to gas off.

    I then add more butane, filling the tube again, and then I release the valve and squirt out all the butane that’s in the tower into a second silicone pie pan and set aside pan #2 next to #1 on the heat pad to gas off.

    I then add additional butane, and fill the tube again, (usually by now I’m at 4 cans of butane total).

    I release the valve into a third silicone pie pan and now I have piss #3 which goes on the reptile heat pad with the other 2.

    Purging:
    By now piss #1 is ready for the vac chamber since it was such a small squirt anyway, most of the butane is gone. My vac chamber temperature is normally set to between 110* and 125* depending on what material I’m extracting from and how much of the terps I’m looking to preserve.

    I close the lid and turn on the vacuum pump and throttle the vacuum with the release valve about half way, playing with it up and down letting the extract start to muffin up and swell but not reach max swell for at least a few minutes, otherwise I feel it gets too crispy and crunchy if I let it fully muffin up right away. After 5 minutes or so of this I’ll let the chamber hit full vacuum and let the muffin get as big as it wants (now full muffin is about 50% of what it’s max was 5 min ago)

    I let it sit at full vacuum for several minutes and turn it off and let it shrink and settle and sit in the heat for another couple minutes heating up evenly. Then remove the silicone pan and scrape up the extract into one area. By now this is usually tan in color at this point, and kinda like a very sticky putty. I can now set this mass on some flat parchment paper, spread out, and back in the vac chamber it goes. I’ll let the mass get to temperature at rest for a few minutes before flipping the switch and letting it full vac, then release, then full vac, then release, etc. We know that game.

    At this point I remove the concentrate and I place another piece of parchment paper over it and roll it with a rolling pin while it’s still warm, this spreads it out super thin over a larger area, sometimes I will flip the pancake over after rolling it, (once was a muffin and now it’s a pancake, lol) and back in the chamber it goes.

    At this point it’s turning into an Amber color and becoming transparent.

    I’ll pull it out regularly and roll it with the rolling pin every now and then as well as flipping it, the thinner and flatter the better, and back in the vacuum chamber under full vac for X amount of time. As many times as you feel you need to do this, do it, each time in the vacuum chamber it’s in there longer and longer without being messed with. I keep doing this until I see absolutely no change whatsoever in my product which is now either a super clear light colored amber medallion or somethin that resembles yellowish sugar, if I’m lucky.

    Throughout this process I sneak some of #2 and #3 into the chamber to purge when it’s not occupied by #1.

    I keep batch 1, 2 and 3 separate, as you will notice you’ll get a slightly different product from each. Taking special care with #1 as your premium.

    I’ve been able to make some of the tastiest and most fragrant shatter from this process, with a super nice flavor that almost tastes as if it’s been added, and often deceivingly smooth as well.

    My end result does vary slightly from tube to tube and squirt to squirt, which I’m still trying to understand, even being as consistent as possible and with the same plant material. Sometimes I find if my ambient temperature in the lab is cold, then my product will seem to lock up and take longer to purge.

    I hope this helps, and I’m also very much looking for feedback, please.

    I’ve been as detailed as possible, and I’ve kind of adapted this process myself over the years without seeing much of what anyone else is doing, so please let me know if I could be improving my process or have any tips that I could be overlooking. We’re all in this to make the best concentrate possible!
    Thanks for reading.
     
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  11. If anyone has some insight on how to make some really nice budder from this equipment instead of shatter I would really like to be able to diversify.
     
  12. Bho processing is somewhat of an art. I get budder consistently by purging until it gets right before taffy consistency then remove whip it up, add heat (~110F) and keep whipping until you see it start to get that budder look and consistency. Keep in mind budder look and consistency looks slightly diff when under heat still.

    That’s why it’s somewhat of an art. All starting material is different and will take forms under different conditions etc... Once you do it tho, you know what to look for in future.

    Like cooking bacon. If you leave bacon on the skillet till it’s done you just burned it. It’s as if the bacon is still cooking after you take it off the skillet. That’s why you catch RIGHT before that point.
     
  13. What I am having trouble finding info on tho is that saturation point of butane.

    I do mason jar soaks in butane with my dry ice hash (or rather just started the habit of this method).

    Take 2 jars. Poke holes in one lid. Freeze butane can and jars for 30-45mins. Spray/fill jar with butane. Remove lid, dump in ~20g of 90 micron dry ice hash. Good shit. Not the green shit that was sifted for far too long.

    Add 2 coffee filters, attach ring and pour off into the new clean jar.

    I soak for anywhere from 6-45mins depending before pouring off. Shaking occassionally.

    My question is what is the saturation point of butane? I feel like I’m not extracting everything first go from the soak no matter how long I soak. I can only imagine it’s because the butane is getting saturated with THC and can’t take on anymore???

    Is that even possible?

    If so, how could we find out what this is? It’s a non issue for tube blasting but I hate tube blasting. Such a chore and process all the way down to emptying blasted bud from tube. Plus usually requires filling a tube full.


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  14. I have done runs with 1/2 lb trim and 8 cans turbo butane. Then after I let the tube sit for a while ran another 8 cans through the same tube and got about 3%-5% of the original total. So you don’t really need to let it soak that long to get it all or almost all of it. If that’s what you are asking. But if you want to know how much extract a given amount of butane will hole I have no idea and doubt anyone will. I can’t do that math anymore.
     
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  15. I’ve been doing a lot lately. I think majority can be had with ~1 min soak. Soaking overall yields less but is cleaner than blasting. My blasts always end up with more wax than my soaks when winterizing.

    A second soak will get some but bot nearly as much as the 1min soak.

    Imo do both. In whichever order. I’ve soaked tubes after blasting them and still got a couple grams.

    I think I will soak for 1 min for a really super brag worthy shatter for my pens, then take that and blast it.


    My other thoughts on blasting...

    Get a bucket and dry ice like you were making dry ice hash but don’t put a bag on. Just swirl it around until it grinds it up really good. Pour out onto a magazine, funnel it into your tube. Pack it in there REALLY tight. I use to think there was such a thing as too tight but honestly you will yield so much better with a tight packing of ground material.


    Also I soak using puretane but will stop blasting with it and using whip it butane for blasting because it’s a great tane, made for blasting, and much more cost efficient for blasting vs puretane.

    I’m on a quest for softball size ball of shatter.

    I’ve for sure learned a lot. And while I think I could certainly dewax in a mason jar with the butane (single solvent) it would require alcohol + dry ice to get cold enough, I still think it’s only going to reduce wax. Dewaxing sleeves, imo remove a majority of waxes but a good winterization with ethanol will still pick up more shit.

    I could talk about this shit all day. Such a shame a few asshats gave bho such a bad name.
     
  16. Other notes. Color isn’t everything. But generally darker means more impurities. However anything in that gold-amber range is still fine.

    If you want super golden by blasting, don’t grind it up as much, or use fresh frozen.




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  17. Hey guys, made my second batch. The first one turned to wax because it was purged to hot. anyways, the second batch turned out super nice. its golden and when cold its very hard and not sticky. I purged it at 109F under vacuum for around 6 hours and then folded it all into a brick and tried it purge it more. Obviously there is air trapped in it now and i don't know if its purged or not because of the bubbles. I tried putting the patty between two pieces of ptfe sheet and rolling it thin to get the air to purge out but even at 109F it is still very hard in consistency? is this normal? and how can i get this air out?
     
  18. #6618 BrodMan Organics, Sep 3, 2019
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2019
    I was high, delete me...
     
  19. #6619 LoneRanger11220, Sep 22, 2019
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2019
    Hey WFE, nice pope setup.

    I’ve never run a wiper system before but am very familiar with short path. And deep vacuum is the only way to get a good fractionation on any setup. Make sure your vac oil is fresh changed.
    Also, oil preparation is extremely important in a wiper system, particulate, or material not properly winterized will screw up everything and make a hell of a time for cleaning.

    I never go that high on my condenser, however usually under a good vacuum depth cannabinoids begin to reflux around 155-165 C depending on what micron you are hitting. Also, using wiped film is a bit more complex than regular short path, as your wiper speed affects things, among other parameters.

    I don’t browse here much, but check out Future for all your extraction parameters to get started.

    Cheers
     
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  20. That’s a $45,000 picture, NBD


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