I'd wager it probably doesn't have enough of anything left for a tolerant person I've never really had the appeal to want to eat a bunch of waxy goop lol
ok so I finally finished reading the whole thread. Half way through it dawned on me to start taking notes and writing down questions to see if they get answered later. I have got most of this down and have been doing small oz runs for years now. I finally got an outlet for pounds of Sugar Leaf. My small tube takes forever to run it so I want to upgrade size. I have read that SS tubes are better than glass and thinner and longer is better than wider and short? Also I have the links from the king Jimmy Carters(thanks for being so awesome lol) post for the glacier tank SS tubes. My question is I can't seem to find if a single larger tube to run the whole pound would be better or 2 or 3 smaller ones all at once. Also how do i figure out what diameter tube is going to hold what quantity? is there an equation or something i can figure out? Sorry if this is a stupid question as I think I already asked one lol.
If you know that a certain size tube will hold a given quantity you should be able to just use the volume of a cylinder formula to figure out the size you need. V=π x r2 x h I use a 8.5"x 1" copper tube and it holds about a half ounce once dried and ground up. I tried a glass tube and it didn't give me much yield. The copper does much better. I'm not sure why more people don't use copper. I'm not aware of it leaching anything. It's commonly used to pipe propane, heating oil, and other hydrocarbons including most domestic water. I don't see why I can't run butane through it. It's also cheaper, way more available, and easier to work with than SS. It doesn't rust which contrary to popular belief SS can eventually rust it isn't immune to it just more resistant to it that traditional steel. The main problem I see with most glass extractors is they are afraid to hold the pressure back, probably because they don't want the glass to explode. Most glass tubes are fully open on the bottom. You just don't get as good of yield unless the container is slightly pressurized. If you slightly pressurize it more of the butane stays liquid and you get a better extraction. I was able to do this with copper by drilling just 3 1/16" holes on the bottom cap and a hole the size of the butane can on the top. The caps get duct taped on. Once you do a few batches the holes on the bottom get pretty small and you have to clean them out with a needle each run. This begins to hold back the butane more and more each time. That's one reason closed loop extraction is higher yield. You're able to soak the material in liquid. The quicker the pressure drops the quicker the butane flashes off into gas and drops the temps instead of dissolving THC. Just a caution: I did push this until I held back the pressure too much and it blew the bottom cap off into my extraction tray and ruined the batch.. hehe. Just watch it. You can pack it too tight with material and leave the holes too clogged on the bottom. At least copper pipe can take 500psi and it doesn't explode like glass might.
you can soak material in an open blast for a decent amount of time if you flip the column upside down while your filling. That's the reason i used glass was because i could visually see my tane enter the column. Once you upgrade to a CLP there is no longer a need to view what is going on inside the column because we know exactly what's happening. I would suggest checking every available option out there possible. If this is something you don on a consistent basis then start calculating factors such as costs to work. A CLP can save you a lot of money if your cost factor is high enough to purchase one.
Long story short I was away from the oil community since 2012. I would post this on the site that I was posting on back then but there isn't much activity. Sorry if these seem like noob questions but if someone can point me in the right place or just some quick answers for a more up to date/quality how to. Quick breakdown – I run about 14g or so in glass extractor with tane. Toaster oven / Vac / toaster oven vac but from my current reading low heat purging is the way to do it now. That is how I used to do it back in the day but from what I have been reading things have advanced in the last couple years. Do you freeze the tube after packing it? Do you freeze the butane? Do you spray directly onto PTFE? Looking to get a bestvaluevac's chamber / heat pad setup. If there is something better for a similar price I would be open to suggestions. Would a 5.5 CFM (two stage) pump pair with a 3 gallon chamber from bestvaluevac? Vac chamber - Aluminum or stainless steel? Is there a reason why they don't let you add a heat pad to the stainless steel chambers. Sorry to sound like a noob but some much has changed in the last couple years.
Hey mate, a 5.5cfm vac will do just fine on a 3gallon chamber. Those usually are the best price till you can afford an oven. Only reasoning being a heat pad would be just because it might not be able to heat the pad hot enough to get a good purge.
Thanks for the reply man. Right now I have the one of the Nalgene Vac chambers so it's the plastic type bottom so I know I need to upgrade from what I have now. Just wanted to make sure I paired a good size chamber with my current pump. Now I see everybody leaving it on low heat for hours. I know ideally the oven would be the best. I just got this strain of cheese that as soon as I pulled the vac it just turned to crumble. This was the first time seeing that happen from hundreds of runs I did years ago and the handful I did before the last couple I had issues with.
Hello, I've made may be about 12 batches of BHOs/wax From what I can see it all depends on the process and the exact temperatures. I've got lucky and got in pure healthy shatter, to real stinky sturdy ( awesome smelling) wax! The last run I had it to an amber color "no more reaction " and then I froze it overnight. The next day I remelted it and whipped it into a beautiful wax! That puts me on my ass! And feels like they took pain meds too! (Great for pain!)
Correct me if I'm wrong but is the green indicative of too much chlorophyll in the material? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Because I am kind of new to this. Trying to perfect it. And when I was laying in bed thinking about whether roots done vacuum purging or not I was too nervous and to be safe rather than sorry I read melted it and vacuum purge it again! I wanted to be safe than sorry it's still gets me medicated , like I said it helps with pain really well. I'm Just hoping it's not the butane or any other shit in there, Thank you guys for responding !!
I have a few questions: 1. During the first purge in a Pyrex water bath, how hot should the water be? 2. If I want to use a griddle to heat purge, what temp does it need to be at? Thanks for your help!
I've read and read for hours,, I attempted to make bho about 15 times.. I followed instructions to the Fckn T.. I bought all the equipment required,, I always work as safely as possible I've been through • Butanae conversations •Consistency conversations •Vacuum pump and chamber conversations •Ptfe,, knotty videos,, ed Rosenthal conversations •Chemestry/ Terpene/ Cannabinoid conversations •Implosion Conversations •Tube conversations • Material : Butane ratio conversations •Marijuana conversations •Open/ Closed Loop extraction conversations You Name It.. I either read it extensively over and over Or I'm tired of seeing it.. I've been through sooooo many pages,, so many people,, so many hours and dollars invested.. That I'm tired of trying to learn.. I don't see how the FCK I try try and try but never succeed These are the 2 most successful runs I ever made 2. Whipped ( I know whipping is frowned upon but I get closer to desired consist. No. 1 Best extraction..
First off, if the material you start off with won't make a solid product then nothing you do in your process will help. Also some strains yield darker products. My latest og is almost red and it's fresh light dep. also light dep seems to yield softer finishes for me. To get a harder finish you need to dehydrate the material as much as possible. In some cases freezing the tube once packed helps as well but reduces yield. I have stopped caring about how hard it was for personal use. As long as it's tasty and strong I dont care how hard it is. Worry more about getting the process down, no particles in the extraction and a good purge. It's like a race car. It's not what it looks like but how it performs.
He's right. Believe it or not procuring good material is actually one of the harder parts of this job. The old saying of it's not what you know but who you know that matters applies here. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Any dark color in shatter at end results if it's not a nice orange-amber then it can be chlorophyll or fats/waxes/lipids. This is just the result of not dewaxing during a run and not being able too. Dehydrated material has nothing to do with having a true shatter. To get a true shatter temperatures play an effect almost as much as what you do with your material before hand, quality of material, Nutrients/sprays and processing. When you freeze a column you shouldn't be losing yield. This will actually be beneficial to any artist who can't get sub zero temps with there column. There is an art to making bomb as bho. I try not to be rude but please don't provide people with false information that could possibly be detrimental to the process. If your unsure then i just wouldn't comment or state from experience.
I don't post false data friend. I am one of the experts around here . Hydration has everything to do with final finish. The more water the more chlorophyll is transferred along with other compounds that soften the extract. Freezing the product lowers yield! I have plenty of side by sides to show this. The bigger the thermal separation upnfront the better the yield but the more of the compounds that soften the extract. There is no art my friend only science and variable. In case you missed my thread. How To Make Bho To Pass Testing. Really Nice Wax/shatter. Also the dark color can also be the result of the material de-carbing. As it de-carbs it gets darker. Sometimes brown and sometimes red. It's not always chlorophyll or fats. That pic in my thread of the three Petri dishes is a temp separation of the same run. Lite to dark, low temp to hot. Lipids and fats are the same thing But I say them both to as it sounds better.
Posting in a thread and having posts means nothing of actual knowledge you have in bho. The funny part is you call yourself an expert. The fact is freezing will not reduce your yields. If your losing yields during freezing then you are getting precipitation from the freezer on your buds and that freezes. Then you have water frozen on it. I mean if your open blasting then do your thing im not the one to judge, but coming from a Professional grade setup we encourage you to have the column temps as low as possible.