The best way to ph coco?? All else failed!!!

Discussion in 'Coco Coir' started by coonjas, Feb 21, 2011.


  1. this was also with that post so yes I would assume it means composted idkfs it came from NPK Values | HelpfulGardener.com

    Realizing the NPK values of certain compostables will just give you an idea
    of what your compost will contain as far as nutrients.

    My hot compost
    currently mainly consists of corn husks, corn cobs, carrot tops and various
    types of leaves. Looking at these lists; it would be pretty easy for me to
    figure out what the soil will have as far as macronutrients. Also, if this list
    is cross referenced withe the LEAVES and NUTRIENTS thread a better understanding
    of what nutrients will be in your soil will be obtained.

    and this






















    Some introductory information on the first
    post of this thread would have been a good idea so we readers had an idea of
    where you were headed. You know what NPK value is but does the new to average
    gardener know those letters represent the elements Nitrogen, Phosphorus and
    Potassium, which are needed by plants to grow. And the most commom place these
    letters would be found would be a fertilizer product.

    I assume you list
    this information for use in composting. I would question the use of fresh horse
    manure in making compost. Our local farmers market has a vender who sells bagged
    aged horse manure containing red worms. The fresh manure she collects this year
    won't be bagged for garden use for a year or two.




    go down















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    opabinia51







    [​IMG]





    Thank you for the clarification on what NPK
    Values are. The reason why I have posted the value for fresh manure is because
    these are the values that I have.

    You are also very correct. Adding
    fresh manure to the garden is a no no. Fresh manure is high in Nitrogen
    compounds that will burn plants. But, addition of fresh manures to the compost
    pile is just fine. In actuallity, the high concentration of Nitrogenous
    compounds will speed up the composting process. Also, the excreted bacteria from
    the intestinal tracts of animals will aid in the composting process through
    inoculation (addition) of the compost pile.

    sorry so spread out I tried to erase some of the blank space to no avail
     


  2. Yeah man if you leave it to mother nature she will balance herself out. Here's a link to our first grow, where we used all the same techniques as our current grow except we did no training at all! Even though they were sativa-dominant 707 headband... heh. The product (with not a single ph adjustment throughout the grow) was top quality, sticky, smelly, potent, bomb bud. First Grow - Headband (Master Kush x OG Kush x Sour Diesel)

    Here's our current grow:
    Northern Lights + Blackberry Kush Coco Grow

    Sorry about the "other website..." sometimes grasscity is a bitch with pictures. We use the 99.9% organic but 100% NATURAL (there's a little mined rock... how the hell else are you gonna get the rock?) Earth Juice Sugar Peak line, with our own compost tea and Earth Juice amendments and some other stuff.

    So you hot compost? How do you hot compost?! We'd really like to get a compost bin goin.
     
  3. I use the same coir but I'm having trouble with the ph. I pour distilled water that has 6 ph and the run off is 5. Also I don't understand the ppm, is that something I should do with the hot water?
     
  4. Had the same issues with epsom salts and dolomite lime trying to get out the cheap way its just 20 bucks for a quart of botanicare cal mag at most grow stores/ online will never get away from specialtly nutrients again.  Perhaps some bat guanuno and worm castings if ya want to mix something else with ya coir.
     
  5. Yes it does. I know it has all 3 with N being the lowest.
    OP just be happy you have a coco medium and don't go flush crazy lol. I'm in a 85% peat moss mix.

    http://forum.grasscity.com/index.php?/topic/1256292-Amethyst-over-grown-society
     
  6. Keep it simple folks. Coco is not nearly as hard as some people make it, you tend to create your own problems by over thinking things. I don't PH, don't mix anything to my coco, I have almost zero run off, feed till day of harvest and have excellent results. I see a lot of attention in this thread dedicated to molasses also, and from what I gather it seems that people don't know why they are using it. Molasses feeds your beneficial bacteria in the root zone, it does not relate directly to the actual plant but rather helps the plants root zone with more bacteria and fungus. Some of those beneficials are alreay available in soil but coco is bare unless otherwise stated sooooooo If you are using molasses or some other carb loader in coco and you are not adding beneficials then you are wasting your time. My favorite product is Great White which is a little expensive but it lasts forever, there are plenty of other products to choose from though..
     
  7. Feed till harvest? Wouldn't you then be smoking all the nutrients that's are still left in the plant?
     
  8. Sound like your making a whole lot more work than needed.
    100% coco is the way to go.
    This doesn't fail..
     

    Attached Files:

  9. Flushing doesnt do what you think it does and the plant doesnt process nutrients in the manner you are suggesting. Flushing is just a bunch or marijuana voodoo. Spend your effort on a proper grow and cure.
     
  10. Im running this line also. Works great but i think all the adds are BS. My last harvest was done with only A and B, bud candy, and a little big bud and it turned out great. Im debating on ordering more candy and BB but im thinking it doesnt meet my bang for buck criteria.
     
  11. #31 Grow2dab., Jan 5, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 5, 2015
    I have to believe my own eyes mate. Every YouTube grower and GC grower I follow recommends it. Hell I didn't do it properly my last grow and I could taste it.

    If you don't need to do it that's good but I definitely do.
     
  12.  
    Shitty smoke comes from bad grows or bad cures. Chlorophyll and plant sugars are what is harsh and needs be cured out for smoother smoke. Growing great weed is all about consistency and avoiding plant stress. Violent swings in any part of the plants environment induce stress and lessen the overall end product, with the root zone being arguably the most important. Excessive, unbalanced or deficient nutrient levels should be avoided at all times. So you are actually causing damage to your buds by doing this. 
       
    To believe it with your own eyes do a real test. Two plants, flush one, invite friends over, do a blind taste test.
     
  13. The resin came out fine (smoking hash or vaping) it's only combusting that tastes strange.

    That's a good idea with the test though, if it doesn't work for me it shouldn't matter anyway as ill just turn the plant to hash.
     
  14. #34 donkiez, Jan 6, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 6, 2015
    Thats kinda funny because Ive been growing for years, and now that Im consistently producing the best quality I ever had it doesnt matter because I just melt it down to dabs as much as possible. :)

    I encourage you to test this out. Ill even go as far as saying nonflushed weed tastes better, because the plant is not enduring stress the last week. Im not sure how flushing got ingrained in marijuana folklore but if you google "marijuana flushing myth" you'll see its getting debunked more. One of my favorite harvest techniques is harvesting the plant in stages over a 3 week period, as each bud finishes. That makes flushing impossible but yields more overall, and yields more perfectly ripe buds. The marijuana plant is really amazing, and if you cut off the top cola when its done the plant sends hormones to rest of the plant indicating that it needs a new "lead bud", within like 3 days you see another mini cola take the lead with a spurt. You can chase lead buds all the way down. 

    By the way, I checked your link. Nice set up! 
     
  15. Cheers mate, the solo is the same cut as the one under the HPS so I thought It would make a perfect test subject.
     
    I've seen people harvest like that too, I think this plant finishes to quick for it but for like 10 week strains etc it would work well.
     
  16. Doesn't Dolomite Lime pH the medium to 7? Isn't that it's job? So you obviously don't want it with coco.
     
  17. #37 buddybanana, Jan 14, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 14, 2015
    No, you don't need lime in coco.
    I agree with the Donkey about the flushng, the biggest pile of fertilizer that the suppliers have ever been able to sale.
    Few years back we did a test, got the most "expert" weed guy we know and set up a test.
    One batch was not flushed at all
    One batch was super flushed
    Dude tries both kinds,
    Yeah, sure enough the batch that was flushed was by far better!
    We laughed our asses off
    It was the same shit.
    If for some reason you think that you can grow a plant for several weeks and then all of a sudden, because you thiink it is a good idea, all the nutrients that have been uptaken and converted into plant structures are going to some how magically disassembly bio-chemically, come back down the phloem and wash away down the drain, well, uh, gee
     
  18.  
    Wouldn't it be the other way round though? Trying to make you use as much as possible?
     
    You know if I stop feeding at week 6 and harvest at week 8 that's two weeks worth of nutrients I've saved for next grow. Keep doing that and you will be buying less.
     
  19. The real answer is that the plants needs dimish in the last week or two, so you can safely cut back on nute strength to save money. Drastically changing the plants environment in any form just invites stress, hermies, and less growth. 2 weeks is way to long for your plants to go with nutes. Yikes, poor girls. :)

    Flushing to save money on nutes in the manner you are suggesting is saving pennies but costing you dollars. As long as you dont use tons of worthless additives, then its not very expensive at all.
     
  20. I wanted to add, two weeks is 1/4 of your total grow time. Does it make sense to starve anything for 1/4 of its adult life?
     

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