The best stealth lighting system? ... PL FTW!

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by -mu, Nov 23, 2007.

  1. best post I've read -
    got a quick question: just learning about induction lighting - I can get a 200W 5000K for around $150.
    Is Induction lighting good to use for growing? Seems like it would be and it doesn't generate a lot of heat - just looking for some input.
    Thanks
     
  2. this is an old thread but seems people pop in here occasionally. I am currently using PL-L lamps 4x55w in a little under 2x2 space. They are alright for light output but still under par from you higher end HPS or pulse MH. As for veg the 5400k photography bulbs rock, I plan on redoing my main veg with them. Down side is finding reflectors, I ended up making my own and they are very simple but would be no where as effective as some made with proper equipment. A big plus is heat output. most of there heat they make is at the base instead of the bulb, this allows you to get real close and work in confined spots. Another plus is very even distribution of light which when used with scrog makes up for slighty lower light output then HPS

    You can get fixture, reflector from reef tank stuff but it is costly. Also you will need get ballasts to run them which can be salvaged from T5HO fixtures, or purchased, but there is a lot to consider when picking an appropriate ballast, cheaper ones are cheaper for a reason. If you decide on going this route will need about 120 (if you make reflectors) and about 200 if you buy reflectors for a 220 watt light. Good flower bulbs cost about 8 each and the veg bulb is about 12.
     
  3. can someone please tell me a site for uk i can get a 150w hps from i cant find one anywhere apart from u.s companys ? any help wud be much appreciated :)
     
  4. Hi you all want to try efdl lighting i use 400w bi spectrum and it well ouperforms any hps or hid give em a try you might be surprised
     
  5. I am trying to make my own fixture atm, but am having a hell of a time finding the proper bulbs with the proper color temperatures. I have checked 100bulbs and bulb.com. Looking for 80w PLs near 6500k and 55w PLs near 2300k. If anyone has the lowdown on where to get these I would be forever in your debt!
     
  6. Things have come a long way since my OP days. There's PL clubs sprouting up all over the place! That PL bucket over at ICMag is a beautiful thing. For stealth growing, nothing touches these things. Word!

    Last year I had a chance to setup my "Ultimate Scrogging Box" PL stealth cabinet from scratch (I've done a couple now - I might post pics one day). Just over two feet high, the veg side (33cm wide) runs 3x36W PL-L (2x6400K, 1x4000K) which is way more than enough light for a half dozen mother plants, plus up to a dozen vegging plants, as well as a layer of clones underneath. Growth in there is phenomenal and rarely can the mother plants wait until the next "leaf day" for a pruning.

    The flowering side (60x50cm) runs 4x55W (2700K) +18W Daylight+10%UVB. I'm smoking some of the product right now and it's seriously top-shelf weed. His plants are topped and pruned to maximize the growth into the main colas and it's quality bud all the way down, no mids, even at over a foot from the lamps.

    After I got his system dialed in, it's producing 50-60g final cured weight per fortnight, rotating six smallish plants (Super Skunk, Widow, Ice(es), AK for now) yielding 7-11g each, sometimes more. I'm not done yet, either! I wouldn't hesitate to recommend these lamps to anyone looking to setup inside cupboards or shelves, where induction lighting is too big and/or hot for the task.

    These lamps are so cool that you can have plants almost touching the lamp surface where they will have too much light (so that flowering tips will start to elongate slightly, you know the effect), yet, will not burn, it has to touch the surface to do that, and that's what it's all about in stealth growing - maximizing light efficiency. You can screw your PL clips directly into your cabinet ceiling (with reflector sheet between, of course) and start actively growing 5-6cm from the top of the cabinet! No other form of lighting gives so much in a small space.

    By the way, ReadyToGo is correct, in small spaces under fluoros, coir is definitely the way to go. If you can dial everything (pot size, etc.) to a two-day watering cycle (or automated drip-feed) you will get excellent yields of superb weed with not too much work. You can get a nice daily cycle going, too, but you won't yield noticeably more and will have twice as much work.

    I don't understand people having difficulty sourcing these lamps, they are everywhere, as are the ballasts. eBay is a great source of all things PL-L (especially cheap ballasts), or any industrial lighting supplier. One thing I did have trouble sourcing was decent clips. PL-L clips are usually plastic rubbish. However T8 clips come in a variety of metals and qualities and will bend to the desired shape quite easily with a pair or two of robust pliers.

    Comparing these to T5's is silly, they ARE T5's, but in a more efficient dual package.

    I don't care about the lumen figures. I care about the weed, which (assuming the grower knows his shit, by which I mean organic amendments) is better quality than anything grown under single, pure HID (plants just love the PAR, man!), and with the right growing techniques, yields as high.

    Word!

    -mu
     
  7. Wow thanks for the info so these dulux-l bulbs sound like the muts nuts haha will be lookin to build a 4*55w system with ballast an holder's the main thing is how hot does everything get? I really like this idea and am wondering if I can use mylar to make a reflector. Cheese sound like the way forward I read the entire post yesterday

    happy growin PEACE
     
  8. You can grow any strain in a cabinet, it's purely down to personal taste and growing skill. Even mighty Sativas can be trussed into shape. There are many strains easier to grow than cheese, and many more yet superior weed.

    As for heat, it's nothing you can't handle with 120mm PC fans. Do the math on the box, calculate the required CFM and then double or even triple that to arrive at the required extractor fan size (placed at the top of the cabinet wall somewhere).

    Get something powerful, with high static pressure (as measured by enthusiasts, not brochures). In the 120mm form factor, you will definitely want to consider the Scythe Gentle Typhoon as your extractor, and maybe also their Kama Flow 2 fans for top circulation. There are quite a few good fans out there, but do your homework first or you will end up buying lots of fans before getting things right.

    You can attach a PWM controller to the extractor fan to slow down the exhaust, if required (if using a small D.I.Y. carbon filter in the cab, you may need to slow the fan down. NOTE: it is much better to slow down a powerful fan with a good static pressure rating than to run a less powerful fan in the first place - and DO use PWM for your fan control, not some cheap linear voltage controller, retaining high static pressure is vital)

    The intake can be active or passive (at the bottom, of course), but active is better, so long as you retain some negative pressure inside the unit (in other words, pull air out faster than you push it in, for smell). Pull air in through ducting from wall space for the coolest solution - seal it up tight. Run the whole system empty for a couple of days to clear out any dust/etc. getting sucked in from the wall space. You may want to put some insect netting on the other end of the ducting, too.

    An empty box will be quite a few degrees hotter than a full box, so don't panic if temperatures seem initially high. The secret is in good airflow inside the box. So long as you are extracting faster than required (say once a minute or more), it's simply a question of ensuring the hot air being generated around the lamps doesn't stay around the lamps, the cool intake air moving around the entire box fast enough to replace it, in other words, keeping everything flowing.

    You want fans blowing air up from the bottom, and more fans circulating that same cooler air around the top of the cabinet, preferably blowing along the length of the lamp, from tip to lamp holder. Circulation currents will take care of the rest. Attach metal fan guards to your fans and simply hook them on the walls. While it's surprising how much air flow you can get from a fan against a wall, you won't want to have them right against the wall. A single hook and blue-tack blob for positioning works well, allowing you to get the angle just right.

    In a dual chamber cabinet, you can use 90 degree "PCI" blowers to move air from one side to the other and up the wall in one go (a light-proof overflow slot along the floor is also advised). Drop in a 140mm or even 200mm fan on the floor, pushing lots of air upwards and you have a healthy, highly carbon-dioxigenated grow room!

    And note, everything runs off 12V, which is much safer than mains inside your grow chamber. If you wire up some connection posts inside the cabinet, run them to a 12V supply outside the cab, you can simply add fans as required. Smart growers have connection points for 12V, 12V@18/6 and 12V@12/12, enabling certain fans at certain times.

    By the way, the 200mm form factor is excellent for stealth grow cabs, not only powerful but silent and also interchangeable with lots of regular grow room equipment.

    Mylar as a lamp reflector is doable, but I wouldn't recommend it. Even if it wasn't a direct fire hazard, which it probably is, it would likely buckle and become useless pretty quickly (only perfectly flat mylar is really worth having). Even mat white painted ply-wood would be superior.

    Think Aluminum. Preferably shiny and dimpled and without any fancy high-tech coatings. You can pick it up in surprising places and often quite cheaply. I recently made a reflector for 2x55w lamps out of reflector sample sheets. Another from parts ripped out of an abandoned shop light. Rake around your locale, you may be surprised.

    Lastly, consider a space for an 24" 18W 10%+ UVB lamp in the middle of this setup, there is plenty space and the final product is well worth the extra fifteen bucks a year in lamps. Try it.

    -mu
     
  9. Will do I have grown before and have a box that I am using now with 2 female doctors from greenhouse seeds and am interested in these lights which company should I look to for ballasts an stuff and as the box is white board covered in mylar I will probably just mount straight onto the ceiling

    happy growin PEACE
     
  10. Um quick question will the t8 ballasts work for these bulbs I think they are cheaper I'm not sure I will buy the correct one if I can't find a suitable alternate one thanks

    happy growin PEACE
     
  11. My custom PLL reflector. I used aluminum sheet material and bent it to shape for the reflector (a rough approximation of the AH Supply reflectors). The thinner aluminum was then mounted to a thicker piece for support. Bulbs are held in place by galvanized steel wire. I enclosed the ballast and led driver behind another piece of bent aluminum mounted to the back of the cab. I left a flat spot to mount 6 deep red leds to round out the spectrum for flower.

    View my grow log here:

    http://forum.grasscity.com/indoor-grow-journals/1205338-first-grow-plls-self-wicking-smart-pots.html
     

    Attached Files:

  12. Also could you let me know how hot your fixture is getting please

    happy growin PEACE
     
  13. Not very hot at all. Slightly warm to the touch.
     
  14. How many tubes and watts are you using my plan is to have just under 200w an keep temps under 75

    happy growin PEACE
     
  15. Songshun is a powerful steel supplier. It is facing the world, I think you can also find out.
     
  16. Takk for flott innlegg.
    Vi har stort utvalg i xenon- og halogenpærer fra kvalitetsprodusenten Philips - anerkjent tysk kvalitet. Hver andre nybil i Europa har pærer fra Philips.

    [​IMG]
     

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