Temperature Control

Hi Bryan,
 
Any hydro system that has roots  in the water 100% of the time (DWC, NFT, perhaps even aero) you want your nutrient solution to remain under 70 degrees at all times.   68 is ideal.  Warmer than this and you risk algae, low oxygenation, and will create the perfect environment for pythium (root rot).
 
So your nute temps are independant from the room temps.
 
Controlling room temps.... there are several methods.  By far, the most popular and least expensive method of keeping temps down is to use an exhaust fan to vent the warm air out of the grow space, and passively let fresh, cool air take its place.   Usually, you'll also want a carbon filter to filter the smell from the air before sending it outside of the grow space.  
 
Personally, I grow in a sealed room, so I use an air conditioner which is controlled automatically by my environment controller (also controls heat, CO2 and humidity) This is expensive, tricky, and should only be considered if you have a specific reason to.
 
Keep in mind, too, that the smaller the light, the less heat it will generate, and the less heat you have to worry about.   The smaller the light, the less yield you get, too, so it's important to find a balance that works best for you. 
 
Best of luck,
 
Past

 

i keep my root zone at 65-70  use a 1 ton chiller, with a 1/2hp pump, the one ton ,chills a 55gal barrel, and the pump handles the flow from the chilled barrel, running cold water through  a network of pex tubing into 3 #ss coils, each coil sits in the epecenter of the undercureent systems (UCs). the three systems as followed 2-8 site 13 gal (each site) and 1-9 site 8gal (each site) UCs...
is does a good job for the scale we have.
running coils into the epicenter allows me to chill 3 systems with one chiller, and one barrel of water. without mixing the nutrient solution of each systems, or instead of chilling each system with there own water chiller. 
 
 
maintaining a consistent  temp can be difficult with out the right equipment, and the right size chiller, but temp is crucial in hydroponic due to devolved O2 lvls, and root rot.

 

Holy crap, I bet that chiller only comes on for a minute or two....  lmao
 
I run a 1/2hp on 55gal and it only runs like 8 minutes in the winter (per the 3 degree cycle), 12min in the summertime, and really in my opinion, I'm overpowered on that chiller....   On at 69*F and off at 66*F should normally be about 1/2hr runtime with a properly sized chiller...  Yours has to be what, maybe 2 min tops....  lol
 
 
And no Original Past, not all hydro systems have the roots in the water....
What about Ebb&Gro systems where the roots are in hydroton...
Or Rockwool where they're in, well rock spun into wool....  lol
 

 
Just fuckin with ya... 
 
 

 

its actually on for quite a while, the 55gal barrel is in the same room as the chiller, and ballast  so there is some heat in there to warm up the water, also the heat transfer through the 300+ gallons of water with a 3 undercurrent systems

 

Oh, your chiller is the kind that vents inside like a dehumidifier would.. Gotcha... 
Kind of defeats the purpose of "relocating" the heat don't it 
 
The heat just migrates back into the barrel.. lol
I run a 1-1/2hp that cools my lights and nutrient and that one runs just about the whole time the lights are on...
But all my chillers dump the heat directly outside in the summer, then in the wintertime, into my living room, and kitchen....
 
 
 

 

its a normal chiller, the room that its in has an opening to the outside, it sits in the opening, but a lot of the hot air blows back in. the room is vented with a 8" inline that dumps it up an opening of our outside brick oven. its a strange house, with a huge underground garage. hard to explain