surfing appreciation thread

Discussion in 'The Great Outdoors' started by tokin jax, Sep 30, 2012.

  1. how many of my blades love to surf? living here in FL we hardly get shit above knee high, just sitting around waiting on a hurricane..its still the most peaceful thing to get blazed and paddle out and sit in the ocean by yourself:D
     
  2. Hell yeah man! Used to surf when I lived in CA all the time. Haven't been able to much anymore..I miss it though.
     
  3. "Sometimes in the morning, when it’s a good surf, I go out there, and I don’t feel like it’s a bad world." Kary Mullis

    Surfing is the single most beautiful and pointless thing on the planet. And I love it. I've never lived in a place where I get to surf regularly, but I do it every chance I get. Even if it only breaks here a few times a year. That's what travel's for.
     
  4. yes i love surfing i live in shitty cold new england but i surf all the time...went to Costa rica a few months ago on a surf trip....i love it...that quote someone posted is spot on
     
  5. I live on the north shore of Oahu and surfing is my life. I just got completely barreled at off the wall a few hours ago. The setting sun turned the inside of the wave golden. Then I paddled in and sparked up a joint while the sun went down. I love life
     
  6. I love surfing broo
     
  7. Yes! Here in southern spain there's a place called Tarifa, the waves are decent from time to time.. but the good stuff is in Portugal to the west, i hear it's consistent year round!
     
  8. I love surf, Rip Curl Pro Peniche happening this week. Just 50 miles from my area but couldnt make it there.

    I love that feeling when you came out of the water and warm up with the sunshine, and that therapy that the ocean water gives.
     
  9. I love to surf, just dont surf too often because I live nowhere near any sea but Im hopefully moving down to Newquay later this year which is the sweetest surf spot in England
     
  10. "It's a huge rush and it never really diminishes, even though you repeat this experience hundreds of thousands of times in thirty or forty years." - Tim Winton

    Tapping the sea's energy without extracting anything from it is probably the most alive thing you can do. If you're into reading, I can't recommend Breath by Tim Winton more. It's a coming-of-age novel about a young lad who discovers surfing and you can't get more beautifully written than Winton.
     
  11. I have always wanted to surf but never got the chance. Now I am going to finally get the chance. It just seems so peaceful being out on the water and connecting with nature. Any advice on boards, technique, surfing etiquette? All advice is appreciated, thanks
     

  12. The longer and wider the board, the easier it'll be to start off. Know your beach, know where your waves are breaking, and watch to learn.

    Etiquette is one of the biggest things to know so you don't look like an ass. Don't cut the line, give the right of way to whoever has it, don't ditch your board. And if you do make a douchbag move, apologize for it. Everyone was a newbie at one point.
     

  13. Thanks bro especially for the etiquette tips, I feel more preapared now
     
  14. Is it a bad idea to learn to surf with the winter coming here in SoCal? I'm not a terrible swimmer, I did water polo for my last two years of hs but that was a bit back and I'm a couch man now... I'm just thinking about tougher currents or waves
     
  15. [quote name='"GCGlobal"']Is it a bad idea to learn to surf with the winter coming here in SoCal? I'm not a terrible swimmer, I did water polo for my last two years of hs but that was a bit back and I'm a couch man now... I'm just thinking about tougher currents or waves[/quote]

    If you aren't too scared looking at it, and there are people out, go for it.
     
  16. Thought I'd dig up this thread.

    The first monsoon of the season just passed and it was as close to pumping as we get. This is a gnarly place to surf, but with how rare the waves are, you've gotta take what you can get. Hoping to get back out a few more times before the season ends.
     
  17. I really wish there were more people keeping this thread alive.

    I went to Bali for the first time this past weekend. Even though Indo surf is garbage in February, it was still pretty awesome. Waves were averaged 3-4', but I got my ass handed to me by a slightly gnarlier one.
     
  18. I want to learn when I move to California
     
  19. Yeah let's keep this thread alive guys! If anyone has pictures of them surfing post them, I will tommorow, right now I am remembering a day about two weeks ago with blasting south winds, straight offshore for a certain secluded coast of the north shore the waves were firing 6-8 feet and just wind groomed perfection. After a 3 hour session I had a horrid rash
     

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