Supercloset secret society (s.s.s)

Discussion in 'Hydroponic Growing' started by GRbudstar, Jul 13, 2011.

  1. They seem to be coming around. Their profile is looking better but still no drop in PPM

    IMG_0454.JPG IMG_0455.JPG


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  2. PPMs may take some time before the plants can change them. They are looking better though!
     
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  3. And just like that they started showing signs of nute burn. Brown tips and clawing on one of the plants. Just did a res change with ph’d water and will flush them a day or two.


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  4. We've been live in the new tent for approaching a full week now...

    Saturday (TP day):
    20200404_145758.jpg
    Bushing up quick at this point - gonna top to four mains this weekend. Shots from today...
    GZs (left):
    20200409_095119.jpg TDs (right):
    20200409_095128.jpg
     
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  5. Hi pal just a quick question when my ec drops how do I top it up with the nutrients eg how much of each if I’m just topping up reservoir I’m using fox farm nutrients i would be great full of your knowledge regards Jake


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  6. What specific type from fox farm are you using?

    I usually fill a couple buckets with water - shooting for about half of my res capacity - and then add nutes to that, getting something stronger than my res. I then drain out enough of my res so I can put back the refill water I mixed up.

    Let's say I have a 16-gallon system, and that system starts the week at 500ppms and finishes the week with approx 14 gallons left and 450ppms...
    1) I would mix up two 4-gallon buckets of nutes and shoot for approximately 650ppms on the new solution
    2) I would drain 6 gallons out of the res (bringing it down to 8 gallons) and then add back the 8 gallons I made (going back up to 16 gallons)
    3) PPMs would land at around 550

    You could just do top-offs with 2gals mixed up stronger, or even do full dump/refills. The 50% refill method has worked well for me.
     
  7. [​IMG]
    I’m getting abit if browning on the 2 left plants pal any idea



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  8. #16409 Tom6421, Apr 14, 2020
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2020
    Hay you guys have some nice closet grows.
    Im new to the led world and about to purchase some lights etc.

    I came across this timer/dimmer for led lights. Whats your thoughts.

    Would it be capable of taking the power and is dimming needed. Max 20v

    Ive done Some reading and you guys seem to have emersons etc but no dimmer if im correct.

    Tia.

    IMG_8697.png


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  9. @Tom6421 what are you looking at for lights? If you're thinking DIY / led boards, you can absolutely get a driver with dimmability built in and then wire up a potentiometer for dimming. Without knowing what you're eyeing there's no way to know if that device is appropriate - that said, it's not something I'd use...

    As far as a timer goes, a simple mechanical one or a digital one works fine - I have a few from Nearpow and they work a mint.

    Here's my dimmer/readout box on one of my new light builds:
    20200329_122551.jpg Left knob / readout is for my (mostly) white led boards, right knob / readout for my far red strips. The UV bar is not dimmable, but if I could find a UV strip similar to my other boards that would certainly be dimmable with the appropriate driver, too.
    20200329_122523.jpg
     
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  10. Hay steak bomb thanks for your reply.

    I actually have been reading through you and gro ora diary’s with excitement... not sure where he’s gone now. !?

    Sorry for not being more specific bro.
    Im thinking of the qb288v2 in a 4x8foot room.?.
    Your setup would be my end goal actually.

    The dimmer pic i attached is more for dimming as in sunset and sunrise from 30mins dimmer up and down.
    To mimic sunrise. This is for led lights for fish tanks etc.

    Not sure if that would benefit us in hydro.
    Although I read the Emerson effect does.





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  11. @Tom6421 Or_Gro doesn't do forums anymore, unfortunately. Definitely a bummer as he is a super sharp grower and was great to interact with.

    288v2s are great boards - those are what I used as the main boards on my cabinet light. I'm using the 288v2 R-specs on the new fixtures though.

    I'd say you'll want at least 1 of those boards per 4sq ft you intend to grow in - so if you planned to have the entire 4x8 tent be filled with plant canopies at the ens of a grow, you'd probably want at least 8 boards.

    Emerson is a nice boost at low PPFDs, but typically the amount of light we tend to put down with QBs & high watts make the boost more incremental than significant. That's not to say adding reds don't provide benefit at all, it's just to say that it doesn't increase photosynthesis as much when you're already blasting the plants with good full-spectrum light.

    The daylight cycle simulator is good for fish but our plants don't really care. AFAIK there is not a way to "wake them up" more gently - and if you want to "put them to sleep" differently you're talking about using some far red light.
     
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  12. Yes real shame, he shared he’s knowledge which was nice.

    Regarding the light fittings ive done some research on uk based suppliers of the 288 led.
    I must admit the information and the options of all the boards seem so much to take in.

    Would you care to share what the new r type led’s are all about.?. Is it just the added red diodes...
    this is where I’m slightly confused as I’m thinking with the built in reds on the new boards would this not make the plants stretch. as your first build you would possibly have the option to turn the reds off and on when needed.

    Id like to go all out and ad the far red lights along with uvb.
    Although looking at prices in this country it would be a big cost to kit the whole 8x4 with led’s so im now thinking to build just one fixture using 4 boards.

    Tia Tom


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  13. The R-spec boards have deep red and (in spite of not having blue diodes) a pretty significant blue spike in their spectrum. They don't cause significant stretch alone - I'm using them to veg now, even.
    20200404_130828.jpg
    Far red can cause some pretty significant stretching if not carefully applied. I saw this in a previous Gorilla Zkittlez run - 5min pre-lights out and 10min after gave me an insanely deep canopy. This time I'll be using FR for maybe 2-3min at EOD, and only after the strerch is done.

    UVA may be a better option than UVB. You'd need to run it for more hours of the day, but you'd be putting yourself at less risk when getting the light on you, and either will increase trich production.

    There are some good board makers in the UK I think... Invisible Sun perhaps?
    Invisible Sun LED Manufacturer of horticultural LED lighting systems
    (Still pricy, no doubt, but you'd save on shipping at least...)
     
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  14. check out solstix too! Those strips got nice diodes in em.
     
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  15. Great, understood thanks. I will follow your diary closely with excitement. Must say the new tent looks outstanding.!!

    Thanks for the reply and hopefully i will get a set of boards very soon as im waiting for some funds to hit my bank and ill be ordering.
    Still undecided between the 288 v2 or the upgraded R spec boards. Im sure following your diary will conclude this.

    May hit you up regarding the uva board when the time comes if you dont mind.

    Regards Tom



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  16. Been 5 days since flip at this point - did a big trim yesterday morning.
    GZs first, TDs second:
    20200504_114106.jpg 20200504_114118.jpg
     
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  17. Looking Great,
    Steakbomb's Lab and to the MOOOooooN

     
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  18. Flip +19 today
    20200518_141611.jpg 20200518_141622.jpg
     
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