When I was in grad school I lived on about $150/month outside of rent & utilities, that covered food, dating, gasoline, toiletries, incidentals, etc. (probably 20% of it went to pot, LOL). Even adjusted for inflation that is not much money, so I know all about the "starving X" thing (X = artist, student, actor, etc.). Funny thing is I was quite happy then, money helps buts its not the be all and end all........
Of course! w/ caveats that i haven’t read manual and completely unscientific methods; operator sampling widows: PPFD 18” under light (center of light, corner of light), light casings have diff dimensions: K1000 (2700, 1000) K750 (1700, 650) K450 (1000, 550) No-name chinese 300w led (300,250) main points: trend more important than values; ppfd incr at least proportionally w wattage; ppfd decreases dramatically center to corners; additionally large decreases with 1” increasing distance from light at diff hts. Will do more scientific sampling in future, hopefully with some way to accurately hold sensor in specified 3d space under light. Maybe a tripod, when tent/cab is empty, to calibrate light distances for reference during grow
I'll be interested in the QB results - I expect at a minimum a lesser drop at the corners. At least when measuring lux, the difference made when changing heights is small enough that a few inches doesn't make an enormous impact. (Not no impact - just easier to fine-tune I guess?) That could also be unscientific methods and a less-accurate means of measure...
Yeah, should be some good trend info at minimum, including variation between similar fixtures. Your results at diff hts, would be one of/the most important conclusions, particularly when moving from reg led to qb (since reg led drops off quickly). Diff across footprint can be dealt with more easily (by moving plant around) than diffs in height of tips. But, i’m also looking forward to uniformity across the footprint, would save me a chunk of time and some ht by moving to stationary res, no wheels (main reason i have them now).
Or put them in same tub, now that all grows in tents w/ 3-side access. Speaking of pipes...takin rest of day off to enjoy this “larf” bud (prob dry to 1/2g, but green now). Like smoking smooth hash, gonna make some nice doobie material.
You could use the original supercloset res with a plant at each corner and train them away from each other if you wanted to - although converting a rubbermaid bin would probably get a better end result. I will say I switched to piped buckets because it offers the simplicity of changing a single res with the benefit of individual compartments for each root mass.
I make the BHO the same as most I assume, using a glass extraction tube and very high quality butane. The key is accurate temperatures (hence the digital infrared thermometer) and proper ratios of all ingredients. Most people stop there (after burning off the butane), but I separate into two batches. One gets winterized and then purged, the other goes straight to purge. Purge involves putting the BHO into a vacuum chamber and after getting it to 29 hg then heating the chamber to about 110 degrees (again, accurate temperatures). You keep releasing the pressure and then pulling a vacuum again several times over the next several hours (can be 12+ hours at times) until pretty much all impurities have been burned off. Making the BHO (i.e. blasting) must be done outside (unless you have a death wish in my opinion) but the purging can be done inside.
Well, next grow will be either 13-/8-gal/combo of ez-stors, got the 13s now 8s prob tomorrow. Ordered lids with 5” cups, assuming i’ll get more water ht than you. But, yes i could (if add’l water would impact yield, so far i don’t believe it has; and looking at tbone’s grow adds to my belief) match 1 supercloset res with each light fixture (and i have 2 res).
I was looking at some grow journals online and I came across these strange looking plants (Bruce Banner #3). I have seen other pics of this plant and done enough growing myself to know this is not what a well grown plant should look like (in any strain actually, at least as I see it). What I was trying to figure out was if the nodes are really that far apart (4" I'd say) on this skinny and oddly spread out plant, or if the grower (who left only photos, no writing) did some weird pruning to get that to happen? You guys know more about this than me (it was an indoor grow under a CFL), how do you think the plant ended up looking like this??
I'm going to go with four 8 gallon (also 5" cups) of them to start, and see how that goes. I'm am wondering if I will have a uniform enough light coverage with two of the 48SAMS to not need to put the buckets up on wheeled carts? If I can avoid that it would be nice, but I'm willing to use them if its going to give me the best results.
Quick guess: Topped it: maybe leaving 4-5 node pairs, or less on stem w some lower nodes taking off from laterals. Grew under weaker lights than mine with alot of leaves (kept laterals from popping on stem laterals). Big defol continuing from some point around 12:12.
When doing so, it would be best to have good clearance on 3 sides with doors; or better, front and back if doors were there.
Btw, if you don’t know about “apical dominance”, you might want to. It’s how your plants ”decide” where the best colas are, and by manipulating it is how you can “choose” where/how many the plant makes. My widows are a good example.