yes, was one of my questions, you can have it mounted outside at sale, or can be easily remounted later.
I removed the blue bandage and looks like it did not hold the split tight , but looks to be doing Also noticed this at the main
Thx for posting. She’s a delicate thang. Treat her nice, you’ll be fine. I’ve got many splits from repositioning, you already read about those at the joints, but when pulling down the tips, i got a bunch on individual laterals. Try to tape or splint them if they keep getting wider/longer, and dont put more pull on them. Looks like those parts of plant are getting fibrous/woody. They wont heal but the plant will continue to grow normally. If you aren't aware, nutrients and most of the water flows through the plant in a thin area around the stem/laterals just a few cell layers below the “bark”. As long as those areas remain mostly intact, most of the stem/lateral’s function will remain normal.
I did of course, but could not find anything at all and so took a shot to see if any of you had any idea or had maybe used a thermometer. Obviously there is a lot about the optimal ambient temperature (75 - 85 degrees), the average distance from the lights (18" - 24"), the "hand test" (put your hand there and if it does not hurt from the heat you are OK) and symptoms of light burn (bleached leaves & buds, yellowing, etc.) but I could not find anything at all on using temperature reads on the leaves to check if your light distance was good. You can use a Lux meter to check light levels of course, but not with LED lights. I was hoping I could employ my infrared thermometer as an additional tool to see how close my plants could get to the light in the tight growing space, but its gonna have to be all the other established things listed above.
You can use a lux meter with QBs! PAR meter is needed with the pink lights. As far as bleaching goes, it's a light intensity thing and not a temp thing - if it were heat the leaves and buds would look more actually burned - you can find pics on grow weed easy of plants that got too hot from HPS or MH lamps. For me, bleaching was a problem with my original kind lamp - that may or may not have been user error. I briefly had an Optic 6 lamp (COBs), but I could tell from the intensity it was gonna be too much for the cab (would probably be good in those tents, however...) At the end of the day that's why I picked QBs. Those numerous low-watt and evenly-spaced diodes really take that bleach risk WAY down. To OG's thoughts on adding COBs to supplement QBs, for me personally I'd be worried about introducing more bleach risk from too much light.
When I have the space for a tent - assuming things stay on track I am hoping to do that addition still next summer. So maybe next fall?
I know temps at which stomates (which i consider to be the radiator thermostat for plants, among other things) close has been well researched for a number of crops, might have to do a lit search (ag-related journals), or use another species as an analog for canabis. For some plants, the point at which stomates close is in the 90s. I’d use this temp range as a max. Bleaching may be related to stomate closure. Maybe i should order an infrared thermometer. The tips of my cindy colas are bleaching, should be easy to see if there are signif diffs between them and tips a few cm shorter that aren’t bleaching. I think, tho, it’s more complicated than that. Usually heat shrivels the plant before it bleaches. I also plan on doing some statistcally invalid research with the apogee meter that i just bought.
I suspect it's a too much PAR/lux/however you want to measure light intensity thing. The grow weed easy post on lux suggests that in flower you can give the equivalent of 90k lux before there's no return on giving more. I also suspect there is a window above 90k where you're safe before you hit the bleach point but I don't have any idea how wide thay window is. Traditional lamps (MH/HPS) usually run hot enough that you have heat issues before too-much-light issues. LEDs not so much. The reason we hit bleaching with the KIND lamps is probably related to the 5w led diodes with the focusing lenses. Each diode is relatively intense anf the lens increases that with the goal of penetrating the canopy. Put that too close to the plants and the tips get blasted with max photons. Collect lots of data. I love data!
Yeah, and the kinds are supposed to be 36” above plants, mine bleach around 20”. I’d like to know more about the mechanism that causes bleaching, too much light is too vague for me. But, i’d like to know more about a lot of things...knowing where bleach point is for my lights is the practical thing i Need to know, a couple bleached tips and that’s nailed. Bought the meter mainly to test par uniformity across the footprint and for adjusting height as it relates to par, especially when using multiple lights.
I was thinking about this last night. I bet he read the questions and realized that the 4 * 48sams setup would be preferable for how most people tend to grow in that kind of space (4 plants arranged 2x2) - probably a little better to have the more intense light over the center of a plant. I would assume the spots with the most intense PAR would be right on top of the plants with the new one instead of at the four corners around each plant. I think the original fatty would do a better job covering the entire 5x5 footprint and (may) be preferable for scrog/mainline applications with an even canopy. I think the new one is better for a simpler grow style - and with higher watts / lower cost, I imagine it would be more attractive to more people. I get the sense Timber is a 1-5 man operation. Nothing wrong with that, as they can be agile in their offerings. But I don't suspect they have a massive R&D budget or anything like that - could just be Dan building what he thinks folks would like based on his experience. Again - at the end of the day you can put these together a lot of different ways. Timber removes the labor from the end user, is a little more clever about layout than just using a big heatsink for a # of boards, and wires them up with dimmers (which the HLG kits do not include / don't even include the correct driver for).
I may grab a B-series driver and a dimmer switch for one of my kits when they are out of service between crops at some point. It doesn't seem too tricky to wire that in - more difficult would be figuring out how to route the extra wires cleanly.
I’ve been playing around with configs and also the approach of full grows per tent vs veg tent & flower tent. I prefer not to deal with 2 rows of plants, but i like the flexibility of 2 sets of 48s vs less flexible redwod + 3saml or either fattys. In the end i think i could live with any minor uniformity issues and managing 2 rows, so prob go with two 48s, since i don’t want to mess with issues related to sourcing and building lights - rather use time to optimize what i get, among other things. So, in a way this has been useful, the nagging thing is why fatty change didn’t come up in our convo and why they didn’t contact me before i was forced to contact them. The generous response would be to chock it up to small company fucking up a product intro, i hope it doesn’t indicate some worse scenarios. Part of the bleeding edge problem... I’ll be calling them later this morning.
I think Steak is probably right in that its a very small operation with Dan most likely making all of the big executive and R&D decisions, its not like they have a board meeting and hash things out among VP's. Grow lighting is a quickly changing and super competitive market, and Timber probably got ahead of themselves in their effort to keep up. Its interesting Or Gro that you will now probably go with the same set-up as me, I was actually looking forward to comparing the Fatty to a couple of 48sams but that will not happen anymore. Frankly though, you have everything else so well dialed in that it almost feels like we could give you a 60 watt light bulb and you could find a way to turn it into a successful grow! No matter what company or type of lights we all choose/build, as long as they are quality and everything else is done well we should do just fine. BTW I love data as much as Steak, so if you collect some good stuff be sure to share it here...........
I should point out that although I am an engineer, I am a database engineer and not a mechanical/electrical one (at least not by trade) - so the liking data thing is pretty ingrained hahaha