I think my edit covered it. Phenos are different for sure (even the leaves look a little different on each one). I think the plant currently on the left reacted more to the nute stress a ways back and started flowering prematurely.
Our house does not even have AC, the temperature gets over 80 degrees maybe one or two days a year (and its never gone over 85 degrees even once). Because I have not done a tent grow before I don't know how much venting the air into the room warms it up, is it a small amount of extra heat (like 2-4 degrees) or a lot of extra heat (10+ degrees)? I don't want to advertise that I am growing weed, but I am not exactly worried that the neighbors will call the cops (it is legal in CA now and their window is a good 30 feet away, plus its often windy here). I have read that if you are fortunate enough to have a window right next to your tent location you should vent the air outside, but in your guys experience how much does the warm air leaving the tent heat up the room/house and/or stink it up?
Some of these things you just have to adjust after you get your gear running. Personally, i’m more concerned about smell, cuz even in veg it can be strong and lingering (think skunk). It’s legal here too, but many of our guests still have the reefer madness views. So i filter the tent/cab & the room they are in, and use ona gel in the hallway outside the room. Your current grow may give you an indication of what to expect, smellwise. As discussed earlier, i have a cold room, so my views on temp effect are not representative.
it will definitely heat the rm up more than you'll be comfortable with..plus i assume you'll run with flaps closed so yes vent outdrs
I find strong fans and air filters manage the smell decently for me up until the 2nd half of flower, then it kinda fills the basement. Perhaps thats another benefit of more CFMs - less smell permeates the air before hitting the air filters, so they are able to scrub that air more effectively? The heat is less of an issue there since it's a large open space. Dumping the heat from my little tent into a walk-in closet was OK in the winter, but in the summer (and after adding some gear) I had to move it to manage temps. I think OG nailed it - probably just gonna need to set it up and tweak as you go along. You'll find this is a hobby where you will always be chasing perfection but have a hard time getting there or when you do staying satisfied with that. Always some tweak here or there.
Day after i purchased their first fattyqb, they discontinued the product, apparently (implied that they would still make it for me). Still waiting for add’l info, but will probably end up getting a version of what CFTN is getting: two 48sams or a fattysams (what looks like a single fixture made of two 48sams). Fattysams has 8 bds rather than 9, diff config, lower price, higher wattage, lower efficiency, and vaguely similar PPF. I’m ok with it, but strange it didn’t come up in convo yesterday, and that i had to query them today.
I would not be at all surprised if he read all the questions and was like "oh shit the 8-board fixture is a really good idea". Personally, I kinda liked the layout of the 3 long fixtures strapped together despite the shortcomings. Lower wattage, sure, but more even dispersal of where the light is coming down from. Literally all the product names changed to something touting samsung (redwood sam) vs the more generic qb names (redwood qb). Interesting... Maybe he's lurking this thread and is starting to source boards on alibaba too hahahaha
Still waiting on responses to questions about diffs brtween two 48s vs 1 fattys. Seems, to be little, if any, benefit to offer a fattysams. If this works out, i could see upgrade potential for a lightfreak to put a perimeter of cobs around the smaller footprint...
I really like the long format ones over the 24/48s just from an wide diode spacing standpoint. I feel like for those ones they would be better suited to use the slate6 heatsinks ala this kit: 260W XW QB V2 LED Kit 2 boards on one heatsink - they could just add side rails, dimmer, and hanging hw and probably get a little better spread over the 24sams.
I'm already thinking about building a 4x4 array of QBs and putting a 1000w driver on the lot. Could run them dimmer and just get CRAZY-even lux across the entire tent.
On the 48s, could perhaps put cobs down middle gap. But, for me this all opens questions about the fixture designs. Besides essentially the frame, the real value-add should be the config design to optimize board combo for a given footprint. When they do this stuff without explanation, it calls that into question. Maybe they’ll learn from this not to offer products until they get this shit worked out.
Hey Steak, is this kit ready to hang once you put it together or do you have to build/purchase some kind of frame?
Good points. Do you still think its a good idea to buy Timber lights right now given what has just happened?
Lemme put it this way, i’m hoping I get a response today and i hope they’re lurking. I did some googling yesterday, and the list of questions came up on a couple of simple queries. So there will be an easy to find archive of all these postings.
Yeah. There's a hole in the ridge at each corner of the heatsink that you can loop a small caribiner or clip thru and attach hanging wires. The kits include the clips/wire, but the wires are a little long for my setup. Both of my current qb fixtures are literally just heatsinks with boards on them - power supplies are mounted outside the grow cab/tent.
Got it. So for the Timber lights that are already built, is the power supply mounted on the heatsink? Sorry if its a dumb question but I am very new to this and cannot tell from the one non-enlargeable photo on their website. I would assume that the advantage of mounting the power supply outside the tent would be because they get warm (which is already enough of an issue in any grow tent), not to save weight on the light fixture?
I have an lasergrip digital infrared thermometer, mostly use it in making concentrates (exact temperatures are really critical) but it can be helpful in checking temps on leaves in a grow space. I checked my plants in my cab, and at the top of the canopy they are 74 degrees. What is the highest temp you want to get to before its too much and your leaves will get bleached/burned? Is there an optimal temperature for the canopy, or is it just about keeping it below the maximum?