Supercloset secret society (s.s.s)

Discussion in 'Hydroponic Growing' started by GRbudstar, Jul 13, 2011.

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  1. So I'm now generating an absolute shit-ton of heat in my closet where the tent is residing. Chiller dumps heat to create cold, QBs are doing their thing, etc. I need to either move the tent elsewhere or keep that closet door open for now.... probably gonna go that route and adjust my gameplan further after the crimea blue grow...
     

  2. Conservation of energy can be a bitch, sometimes
     
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  3. I can't just throw a ton of heat and energy into a system and expect to net cool temps? Hahaha
     
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  4. You probably heard a rumor about that in thermodynamics....
     
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  5. Moved the tent out of the closet into another room - air temps dropping nicely. Gonna be interested to see how the chiller performs over the next 24-48hrs...

    I've sourced a slightly lower-wattage driver for my QBs too. The 240W one I'm using puts down plenty of light - more than I need, even. 135-260w possible with it; I'm getting 15K lux at 135W. Getting a 185W driver which should let me do 100W at the bottom (and hopefully 10K lux or so which will be better for seedlings)... Then if I need more veg time I can dial it up to 15K or 20K lux when the plants start getting bigger and prepare them for the 40K+ blast in the cab...

    Also! One Crimea Blue is breaking out now. Hopefully I'll have 3 sprouts by tomorrow & target transplanting this weekend.
     
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  6. Hey Steak I love the way you set-up those air stones, very clean with no extra tubing floating around. Obviously it required you to drill a hole below the waterline and then use some kind of rubber grommet so that the air hose would be sealed with no leaks. I would like to do the same for the 5 gallon buckets in my future tent, can you tell me the specifics of how you did it (size hole drilled, size & type of grommet, sealing material used on grommet)? Thanks!!
     
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  7. #10588 Steakbomb, Jun 19, 2018
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2018
    They're actually an inch or so above the water line - my 5" net cups are pretty deep, lol. 14 gallon tote bin, but only 6gal usable for soup. The water actually stops just about at that ridge halfway up the walls.

    The grommets are useful to prevent splash, though, for sure - they just aren't sealed with anything. I think having the hose come in above the water but kept tight to the wall is a pretty good orientation - I can slide the air hose in/out a little if needed.

    They're regular rubber grommets from Ace hardware - that aisle where they have all the drawers of random screws and shit has grommets too. The air hose is standard 1/4", so I got grommets with a 1/4" inside diameter. I think the diameter around the middle / within the flange was 5/8" - drilled holes that size, deburred with a narrow file, and popped the grommets in.

    All of the chiller loop stuff is fairly standard issue threaded aquarium bulkheads and fittings from amazon. I could post a parts list if folks were interested.
     

  8. Oh yeah

    C99s: Lighting up
    50FF05FE-452B-44E5-A39D-1D435B592C7C.jpeg
     
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  9. Now that the tent is in a more open space, the chiller seems to be working - pulled the water down about 1 degree so far. Really quiet too.
    20180618_201933.jpg
    Also found a good use for one of the fans that came with the cab! Blowing air over my power supplies and air pumps to cool them off a bit lol
    20180618_201943.jpg
     
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  10. My roots 12 days after switching from Hydroguard to Garden Friendly Fungicide---I'm sold!!

    Roots 2.jpg
     
  11. So if I wanted to run my air hose into the very bottom of a 5 gallon bucket (almost level with where the air diffuser would sit) rather than above the water line and then all the way down the side, would there be a way to use a rubber grommet (or something else) and seal it from leaks? Or does it need to be done above the water line like you did, as some kind of water leakage is inevitable?
     
  12. Not inevitable, but very difficult to prevent for sure.

    All of the fittings for moving water have bulkheads on the res walls and silicone thread tape at the attachments. They don't really make that kind of stuff for moving air into water.

    You could probably use a grommet & some aquarium silicone around the grommet / between the grommet and hose. That connection, though (flexible hose to rubber) would have some movement so it so I'd worry about leaks. Probably even more of a challenge with round buckets...

    Easier to just glue a couple of these to the inside to hold the tube out of the way...
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N..._34?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=6630T7WPCWE5XM1MZFQY
     
  13. #10594 Or_Gro, Jun 19, 2018
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2018
    Maybe the pic, but looks darker than should

    You have a lot of nutes in there?

    I try to keep them a uniform shade of light
    D977C8A9-FF83-47E0-9813-30BF0093CAC6.jpeg
     
  14. #10595 CFTheNatural, Jun 19, 2018
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2018
    Checked the soup today and PPM was 380 (water is 90 so net of 290), I'm still only using 1/3 of the recommended dose. Part of it is the picture, but right after the photo I rinsed the roots in my kitchen sink and about 50% of that light brown color came off. There is still some light brown coloring, but its nothing like the dark brown that I had before and needed to cut off. Also I examined the roots very carefully and while they are a bit darker in color than I would prefer, the entire ball looked very healthy and had no smell to it (before when I had the infection the roots smelled bad). I changed out my reservoir yesterday and the water that I removed was quite clear & clean given that it had been there for 10 days. Assuming its not the nutes, is there something I can do/change to get my roots a lighter color?

    Not sure if its relevant to the roots & their color, but the plants are very healthy and doing really well. I had to lightly defoliate them again yesterday to remove fan leaves that were shading the new node growth, they are growing so quickly that I can see the difference on a daily basis. This pic is after defoliation.....

    Plants 2.jpg
     
  15. #10596 CFTheNatural, Jun 19, 2018
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2018
    Yes, given the challenge & risks I agree its better to have the air tube enter the bucket above the water level and then use those holders to keep them out of the way. In my current reservoir they did a marginal job of setting up the way the tubes go into it, and even though I redid it when I replaced the pump and air stones the tubes are still flopping around a bit. I was just looking for a way to more directly route the tubes into the reservoir/bucket so that there is not a lot of slack & excess getting in the way & moving around.

    What kind of glue would you use to keep those holder totally secure under water??
     
  16. #10597 Or_Gro, Jun 19, 2018
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2018
    That’s why i use hydroguard. If the stuff your using is comparable/better, i would expect, at least, similar color

    Plants look good, so maybe you’re golden.
     
  17. Hydroguard is clear, whereas GFF is a brown color (and even diluted 30:1 the solution is light brown). So, I would expect the roots to take on some of that color. I will keep a close eye on them and my reservoir water, but frankly it has never looked cleaner or smelled better.

    For my outdoor grows I have used mostly Advanced Nutrients, and I research everything before buying it as you know. I remember reading reviews on Bud Blood, and there was a guy who posted in a forum about how he used it (its a bright red powder that you mix into a solution) and all his roots turned beet red in color! He was freaking out and wanted to know if his plants were OK, even though they looked fine and his bud production had gone up significantly. Several experienced members told him that roots often can take on the color of the primary nutrients & fertilizers that they are fed, and that his plants were fine. Perhaps this is a case where that is happening for me? I am not sure but as I said I will keep a close eye on things, if I get even a whiff of infection or root issues I will clean everything out and use 12% Hydrogen Peroxide like I did last time.
     
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  18. Aquarium silicone would work
     
  19. yes it would wrk but methinks seeing how suction wrks first before cgluing anything permanently would be prudent..those suction cups hold pretty gd when applied properly plus they'll come out for easy cleaning..those things glued in permanently will make cleaning a PIA imo
     
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