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Supercloset secret society (s.s.s)

Discussion in 'Hydroponic Growing' started by GRbudstar, Jul 13, 2011.

  1. It's all good, if they knew, they were cool about it.

    The skunk stays around a long time after you shut the doors, we get so used to it we can't smell it like people new to the house.
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  2. What's the size, again?

    Consider rigging up the fans/filters that came with your cab.
  3. True that - but I have been using the stock SC filters after any given day of in-cabinet work. Got them plugged in on opposite sides of the basement and I let it run for 3hrs which is probably long enough to recycle all the air down there 2x over...

    To your other point that may be the reason I *don't* use those in there... they're my basement air purifiers now. Plus the square end wouldn't work so well with the round vent cinches I don't think.

    Tent is 3'x2'x3'
  4. I'm gonna keep one of each of my clones as mothers for next spring grow in my tent that is 2'x3'x51". I'll prabably keep them under t5s to minimize growth, so i'll probably just use oscillating fans with vents open. If i move up to a led, i'll figure out how to ghetto rig one/both of the original SC fans.
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  5. Yeah I may not really need the ducting for heat (only gonna have like 60ish watts of leds in there) - and actually the smell isn't really weed-y until flowering anyway....
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  6. #8986 Or_Gro, Sep 13, 2017
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2017
    Yep, good idea to design in some tie points.

    I found i need at least 4 types of tie points, all except the last one are temporary (for 3-7 days).

    1, downward pressure, 2-4" from stem, for creating manifold structure (i use twist-tie wire and nuts for this, cuz i don't want you to deal with the holes after the couple days i need them, and because the position changes with each topping).

    2. upward pull aimed toward perimeter, to help lengthen mains early when presure down may break them (i tie to my positioning wire).

    3. Downward pull aimed toward perimeter, to pull tall mains down to lowest main height to control apical dominance while training to the perimeter and the positioning wire.

    4. Positioning wire 10" above deck at max diameter prior to 12/12, mains soft-wire tied to it used to position mains relative to each other within max 12/12 diam temporarilly before and periodically after 12/12.

    Depending on stretch and stem strength, a net or individual tie points may be needed late in flowering to position/support gigantic colas.
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  7. #8987 Steakbomb, Sep 13, 2017
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2017
    Thinking I'm probably going to basically have your point #1 as my only real goal for training in the tent. Planning to top to 4 mains and make sure they're spreading out nicely. They'll graduate to the closet after that and go under the jungle gym. I can either top again and use the lower ties on the gym to finish the spread, or just let them go to the screen immediately then supercrop the mains once they're a few inches thru. (Honestly I'll probably do this if we top to 8 too)
  8. PK pretty much all the crew here use chillers..i use frz pks..hydroguard..i keep temps dwn by using a insulated jacket on my rez..in summer temps here get 100-115+ so the thermal jkts are mandatory..add bk soup is kept in fridge and added daily once they get size on roots systm..i keep my res under or at 70..chng frz pks three times a day in summer every other day in winter..it wrks but very high maintinance..i'm retired so i have the time
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  9. those jar top guages are just the bomb! i'm going to get some when i got the $..amazing how nu gear is getting developed when a nd is seen..bet they'll soon be unavilable
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  10. I wound up grabbing a couple very similar ones for my infinity jars. Mypharmjar makes them - they sell whole jar sets too but super expensive and crazy shipping too.

    Looking at them it appears they just take a thermo/hygro that you might use in a terrarium, drill a hole in the lid that size, then somehow attach the thermo but maintain the jar being air-tight. The ball jar ones look the same. Pretty sure I've seen both kinds before at petco for around $5 or $10 each.

    When I get mine I'll confirm. Since I'll have 2 extra lids kicking around and some examples to examine, I may see how much cheaper it is to just make one myself. Lids were like $15 each but if they just used like hot glue or silicone caulk or something I could probably do up all of my lids for the same price as buying 2.
  11. #8991 Or_Gro, Sep 13, 2017
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2017



    Looks quality made
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  12. #8992 Steakbomb, Sep 13, 2017
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2017
    Looking for suggestions on light mounting... here's what the top of the inside of the tent looks like:
    Two cross-bars that just kinda sit on the framing... planning to get a couple hangers like in the closet maybe? Maybe I don't even need something adjustable if I'm just vegging for a few weeks?

    Also picked up a blowtorch today. The Depot didn't have flame spreader tips or the Fusion spray paint so I had to amazon those. Fixing to get the black coats done this weekend, let it cure for a week, then do white next weekend and give it another week. Should let us pop seeds right around the beginning of October.
  13. When i teturn home later today, i'll show you what i did.

    But, basically in my 3'x3'x6' i have a fan, filter, k750, and k450 hanging from crossbars, they are stong enough.
  14. Yeah I'm fixing to hang from the bars as well - probably gonna grab a couple large-ish carabiners to put at either end of the cross bar, then hook the ratchet hangers to those / the lights.
  15. Exactly
  16. Just finished cutting and shaping the PVC skeleton for the tent lights. (Had to partially taper the ends of the long pieces so they could fit thru the mounting clips.) Used the clips that were included so I can remove the two outside bars & use them in-cab when seedlings graduate but aren't ready for flowering yet...
    Need to fasten the clips to the frame with screws and add the hanging hardware but this part is just about good to go.
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  17. I'm actually gonna call this one a prototype - the bars can slide around a bit on the clips so I want to make the long parts the same length as the full bars. Clips will get pinned to the plastic bumpers at the end of the led fixture.
  18. PVC, stoner legos
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  19. IMG_7722.JPG
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  20. Added 4L of soup this morning - seems I'm getting pretty close to the saturation point. Usually TDS has gone up by 20-30 when I add a gallon of soup; today was only a 10pt jump. TDS now sitting at 1280.

    Gonna go big this weekend and just add all soup. Guessing it'll cap out around 1400 or so - may or may not get there with this change.

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