subs in my trunk

Discussion in 'Planes, Trains & Automobiles' started by funnybunny, Sep 23, 2010.

  1. So, heres the deal. I drive my parents old toyota camry (thats about to bite the dust) and im saving up for a car. I was gonna put 2 12" subs in the trunk, and then a nice set of speakers, when I get my new car. Basically, I found a good deal on some subs and an amp, and was gonna get them and I know I wouldnt be able to resist using them. Does anyone with experience in setting up car audio know if it would be easy to but them in the shit car I have right now and then move them to my new car at a later date? or would it be inexpensive and a hassle? btw, I would permanently anchor them or anything, probably just wedge them into back with some foam or something.
  2. I have a degree in audio engineering :D
    But as far as the subs, You want to know what exactly the specs on the subs are or youll probably get ripped off. Especially with the amp.
    Things you want to know:
    1. LOOK AT THE RMS RATING ON THE AMP! Ive seen countless people get ripped off because the box said 700 watts on the front. Look on the back for the rms rating. Im not gonna explain what rms means but basicly its the true CLEAN ampreage output of the amp without distortion. If the amp is a 2 channel amp or a 4 channel amp makes a difference also. If your going to buy an amp just for your subs get a 2 channel. Subs are big and take a lot more power then midrange and tweeters so you need to look at the max rating CONTINIOUS!!
    If you look at peak it just means that the subs can handle that amount of power for a short period of time. ONce again, another way the companies try to scam you. Get an enclosure for the subs please. Ive seen countless cars that sounded like shit even with good subs in them because they vibrated like crazy because the enclosures suck. Its just as important as the subs your putting in. Also put in some midrange and tweeters because then its just pure bass if you dont and to me that sounds like shit. Look for preferably kicker subs at ohh say 800 watts continous power. If your subs blow its not because of your subs. Its because your amp isnt sending clean power. Most people think you have shitty subs if they blow but 99.999 percent of the time its the amp thats shitty and cant supply clean enough power to the subs.

    Sorry this was so long. I get carried away :D
    Have fun and dont overcomplicate things. Good brands are kicker, alpine, kenwood, jvc, mtx and pioneer from my experience. If you want to go more expensive you can get some custom subs built for you but those cost thousands.

    Good luck. CP :D
  3. some subs will benefit from a ported box instead of an enclosure. you will need to build the box to the specs of the subs to acheive their potental. I wouldnt waste the time to put the subs into the toyota if you are just gonna get a car soon. but if you want the experience i would say go for it. if you dont know how to build a box and you want to i would google around. try lots of help there. there are also people in town who can build you a box. but be prepared to fork over some $$$.
  4. What subs are you planning on getting just out of curiosity??
    And also it would be a slight hassle to switch it from vehicle to vehicle. If you plan on using the same cables which is prolly the case considering they can get spendy but you would have to pull your power cable out again and take your dash apart again and pull out your RCA cables. Not that big of a deal but set aside at least an hour to do all of this by yourself. Best to get a freind to help you when its time to put your subs together, always helps things along.
    Anyway! good luck with your system and let us know what you end up getting.
    Also some good brands as said before----Alpine,Rockford Fosgate, JL audio, MTX, Orion(higher end sub models)
  5. #5 FoodLion, Sep 24, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 24, 2010
    It'll kinda be a bitch, because you'll have to run your power wire through your car to your battery, then take it out once you get your new car, then run it through your new car again. It's not too fun.

  6. thanks guys. im pretty new to car audio, my friend and my dad are really into stereos and all so they can help me in terms of good speakers.

    yeah... I might move the battery to the back instead, depending on the complexity of doing so. I know my new car will definitely have it in the back, cuz their will be a turbo under the hood.

    basically the trunk has a nice little slot for a box in the back, and I could pad it on either side with foam, and then not have to bolt it down. I had a friend who did something similar temporarily
  7. I've missed my single 12'' for the passed 3.5 years. I never started because it wasnt a simple car to replace audio in. I will in the future I think. It adds such a different experience, even if its not ear blasting. I have have a stock 12 inch sub in my car but I miss the real bass lol. GL man.

  8. yeah I think im probaby just gonna go for the dual 12s and do it. I'll just rig the wire so its easier to get out. that way I have my subs before I get my car
  9. i just put 2 12" alpine type r's in my trunk along with a new deck and 4 speakers, if ya need any advise i could prolly help ya
  10. If you moved your battery to the back it would still need a power wire from the alternator so it would be completly pointless unless your having a secondary battery but it doesn't sound like your gonna be doing anything huge. Also why do you need to "wedge" anything in with foam.? its not like a little bit of foam is gonna stop a 60 pound box from moving around. and unless your doing some serious rally shit your not even gonna need to secure them at all in a temp set up. and also I have never seen a stock car with a battery in the trunk.................
  11. I would secure it down for theft prevention purposes. I had a friend who was building a nice box with 2 12's and he just finished up that night and didnt secure the box, and some guy the same night jacked his shit. course he didnt have an alarm either. I would do 2 alternators before i would ever do 2 batteries. IMO.
  12. Okay, I have quite a bit of experience with audio, and I will tell you this: it might be a good deal, price wise, but a terrible deal quality wise, or vice versa. The biggest factor, though, is not how much you pay, or what you get, but how you install it. I have personally had systems from 2,000 watts down to 200 watts, but it's not just about the wattage or how many subs you have, it is about matching your components wisely. I had two 15" subs that hit the same as 1 12" ported sub, with the same amp.

    For example, lots of people will go out and buy a random box and buy some subs to throw in it and be done. Terrible idea. Subs are built to fit in boxes in a certain cubic-foot range. Say you go out and buy a $500, 800 watt sub, but the box is twice/half as big as it should be. Your buddy goes out and buys a $150, 400 watt sub and matches it to a box that fits the sub's specs. You hear his system and immediately, you're furious that his system sounds great when yours sounds like shit. It can and almost always does happen to people who don't know what they're getting into.


    Go to your local car audio store. Tell them what you're looking for, and the price range. They will be able to give you some options at different price points. If you feel like you're being pushed around, go someplace else. Avoid the big-box stores like Best Buy - even though they may have lower prices on the same items, the staff have extremely limited technical knowledge compared to the mom-and-pop shops. Get to know some of the folks who work there, and you will get an honest, genuine opinion and leave with something that fits your budget and puts a smile on your face.

    My personal choice would be Orion (check out their HP series in factory-tuned boxes), but there are many other excellent brands, and many overrated ones. Please don't be an Alpine Type R in a prefab box person. There are much better options for the same (or lower) price.

    Best of luck!
  13. or the op could do some research before he even starts to look at car audio. go onto some car audio forums. it will give you lots of info and advice. audio brands are personal preference. There are alot of great brands out there. but everything has its pros and cons. you dont have to go out and buy high dollar equipment your first go around. keep it simple and effective and you will enjoy the quality of an aftermarket car stereo.
  14. When wiring for amp is kind of a pain, I did mine in my old car in middle of winter, but was so worth it. check this site out man, where I got all of my system.
  15. Thanks for all the info, it was helpful. But I'm actually gonna have the cash to be able to pick up a car soon for around 5k-6k and It may already have sound in it or ill put some in eventually. On that topic, I should have some pics of of my civic or 240sx (depending on which I go with) pretty soon, assuming all goes according to plan

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