Sub Question

Discussion in 'Planes, Trains & Automobiles' started by k.smith904, Jan 30, 2010.

  1. I'm lookin to get a sub(s) for my ride, but have a few questions.

    I don't need my brain to rattle, just want some legitimate bass. One/two 10/12(s)?

    Recommended brands?

    Do I need an amp if its something simple?
     
  2. There are many factors you need to consider when purchasing a sub/subs. What's your budget (you'll need an amp, subs and an enclosure)?
    You obviously don't seem too concerned about being heard 3 blocks away, but how important is sound quality? Even cheap subs can produce bass, but are you an audiophile who likes a sculpted sound or are you just looking to hear the bass?

    I used to have a nice system in one of my old vehicles, but with my job it's just not gonna work loading/unloading gear all the time with subs getting in the way. My vehicles actually have stock 8" subs that help give it a full sound (which is obviously nothing compared to my old setup with two 12's). So, if you're just wanting a more well-rounded sound, one 10" or 12" should be fine.
     
  3. #3 k.smith904, Jan 30, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 30, 2010
  4. i have a 12in Cerwin Vega Sub and a 500watt amp and that thing bumps pretty damn hard for a single sub and 500watts, cost me 500 with installation
     
  5. #5 DimebagRIP88, Jan 30, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 30, 2010
    Honestly, if sound quality is your concern, you can't go wrong with JL. Kicker bumps harder, but JL's got the best clarity imo. Go to hifisoundconnection.com and pick up a JL 12W3 at 4 ohms and a JL G2250 amp. Then pick up the 12" enclosure of your choice (but try to find one with the recommended airspace). A sealed box would give you the most accurate sound reproduction. Then just wire up your car for subs (not hard, just pick up a Scoche wiring kit from Wal-mart and follow the instructions) and start bumping.

    EDIT:
    Oh, and make sure to bridge the amp. That's where you use the designated terminal from each channel to power a single subwoofer (i.e. the positive from one channel and the negative from another).
     

  6. Yeah, subs require more power than a speaker amp can produce, so they need their own separate amp.
     
  7. My favorite subs that I've used are Elemental Designs and Image Dynamics, both great sounding subs that still produce good SPL.

    People definitely don't put enough emphasis on enclosures sometimes, though. You can have a great sub matched with a great amp but if the enclosure isn't appropriate it's not going to sound the greatest. However, custom built enclosure can come at a price.
     
  8. +rep, they don't get nearly enough mention.
     
  9. 1 10" if you have a compact car, maybe 2 10s if you got like a denali or something with as much room. get an amp that can reach at least half the rms power or match the rms if you feel like bumpin' it from time to time. as for the subs themselves, get one who's got a softish material for the cone, not plastic like those sony's you get at wally world.
     
  10. He does have a point, if you have a compact, 1 10" will probably fit your needs. If you have a SUV or something, dont go for 2 10"s though, get a 12" or 15". Unless you put a 10" up front and a 10" in back, the 2 10"s in the truck wont sound much different.
     
  11. sounds like I'm lookin at getting a single 12.

    Any particular brand of amp to look for?
     

  12. Kenwood is my favorite amp brand. High quality.
     

  13. You just wanna make sure you get a good, quality amp that will drive the sub properly. When it comes to amps, there are two main ratings to worry about. Peak power and RMS (average power). Peak is the maximum amount of power the amp will produce at any given instant. RMS is the average amount of power given out. You want to make sure the the subwoofer you get is rated to handle BOTH the Peak and RMS ratings on the amp. As far as brands are concerned, it doesn't matter too much. My favorite brands are Kicker, Kenwood, JL Audio, and Infinity (I personally use an Infinity 1600a).
     
  14. Listen to him ^^^^^^

    A 12" JL W3 will thump very nicely. The quality is so much higher than kenwood or sony. Very clean and deep bass. Get a ported box and a decent amp it will sound great. I had 2 w3's in my car :smoking:
     
  15. Hifonics makes very good amps, Ive had my Hifonics Titan 1500 watt, for about 2 years, its never let me down, it bumped 2 12in subs, for hours of driving with never cutting out or overheating.My Rockford fosgate 1500 Watt amp on the other hand is horrible, thing won't bump the same polk 12s for more than 30 mins before it goes into safety and overheats.

    Those Rockford subs are very well made and bass clean.

    Enjoy you system though bro, its enhances your music enjoyment so much while in your car.

    Also, take into account what music you listen too, Rock and things like that, youll want a amp that has better highs than lows, but with rap, youll want a amp with better lows than highs, all amps can be set to deliver good highs or lows, but if you look at the amps specs theres much more to a amp then the knobs.
     
  16. #16 FoodLion, Feb 5, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 5, 2010
    this, you could even go with the lower wattage JL's that are supposively "new technology".. the WX's. They come in 10'' and 12'', personally I would recommend 12's. They are very clean and don't run too high wattage rms. I think it's 200w or so, which would also save you money on an amp.

    basically anything JL W3 and under (WX, W1, W0) would be what you're looking for. I have two 12 W1's with a 350.2 kicker amp. Not an expensive setup by any means and bumps like crazy. Just look into it man.

    Fi, Digital Designs, and Kicker make nice subs also.

    hope this helped a little

    edit - and for the amps. Go with the quality brands, never go cheap on an amplifier. Hifonics, Rockford Fosgate, JL, McIntosh, Boston Acoustics are quality brands. Just another pointer, never buy anything Sony when it comes to car audio. They just make plastic crap.
     
  17. bullshit you should get a 10 if you have a compact car, i managed to fit to 15's in a ported box in my tiny ass civic, it only took me an hour to just the the box in the trunk :smoking:
     

  18. amps more important than the sub in my opinion :smoking:
     
  19. I have 2 12" silver kicker cvr's (800 watts max a peice), connected to a 1000W TMA Monoblock amp, in a custom fitted sealed pro box.
    &it bangs! Sometimes i cant even look out of my rear view mirror because the bass shakes the mirror to hell.

    I spent around a grand for all that plus professional installation at Custom Sounds.

    In my opinion you cant go wrong with kicker, considering their prices, their power, and their selection.
     
  20. Kicker is fine if all you want is noise, but if you're looking for sound quality, look elsewhere. Sure, the CVRs throw some SPL, but I like accuracy.
     

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