After a few blunts and bong hits. I thought of a great way to conceal a grow box. I was thinking of making a leopard gecko cage and stand. But for the stand I wanted to turn it into a stealth grow spot with Veg. and Flowering rooms. L:80" W:27" H:70". I would be running 4 fans all 120mm, 2000RPM and 74.48CFM. Two on top that would be going into the gecko cage acting as exhaust fans, one on each side of the cage. The other two on the bottom of the stand on the backside acting as intake fans on opposite sides. If there are better ones and maybe in decent price range. As well as light traps so the fact of growing wouldn't be noticeable. Fans: Newegg.com - Rosewill RFA-120-BL 120mm 4 Blue LEDs LED Case Fan. I am not sure what kind of light for the veg. side either CFLs or some T5, but I know I will be running a HPS bulb in the flowering side. I am also a beginner at hydroponics so there are plenty of things to go wrong in that, and I might just do a soil grow after I get a couple more grows under my belt with this stealth box. (I have grown a couple times outdoors before). Stand and cage wise, There will be part of the stand that comes up the back of the glass cage and will exhaust into the tank. If I forgot any details just post. Thanks for the help in advance.
Great thought!! It actually sounds like it would be a great stealth box, has a few design issues that you will run into, which you have already pointed out, light leaking. One thought, get rid of the fans and exhaust and just use straight CO2. Might be a little more costly but not too much, just dont get all the whistles and bells and you could get a CO2 system for 150ish. On another note, you will need a hole in your box to get power for your lights and fans, put the stealth box on center blocks with a thick, black, light proof curtain and then you can make your access holes and intake exhaust holes underneath where you can still block the light and keep it out of sight. If you must have the exhaust out take holes you could always keep the cage and stand pressed up against a corner or wall with just enough space between the wall and the back side of your grow box to fit an exhaust cover with a bug screen covering the hole. Ideally you would want the exhaust fan outside of the box but just put in the top right corner of the back wall on the inside of your box. If you put the intake holes in both corners, on the other end and on the under side like I mentioned in the previous paragraph, you could get good air flow in the box. You should think about purchasing a small charcoal filter to stick on the end of that exhaust fan to try and conceal the smell as much as possible also. There are co2 bag buddies now that are very inexpensive and will last 90-120 days, considering your small grow area, that might be a good thing to add to ensure good growth. hope this helps at all btw, sweet idea!! I might tryi it out too Matt
Yeah I would have the whole stand and cage against the wall at the end of my bed. But for the cage part I was thinking of having it exhaust into the pets tank and out his screen cover so it just looks like airs blowing on him or for him. I couldn't afford a co2 burner just yet. But as of now I could get those fans and have 2-3 as an intake, and use reflective tape and Mylar to ensure there is no light escaping through the cracks but as well putting light traps on the fans. I just wanted to run this idea through some people to make sure the kinks were worked out before I start building it. But what would the idea temperature be for a starting seed to a mature female. As I used to grow outdoors I was never so concerned about ideal weather temp. I built a PC stealth box with 2 fans and an exhaust and it stayed well above 83 and it cooked my sprout. I just got my package from Attitude Seedbank. Northern Soul - 5 pack. Pineapple Express - 1 mix n pick. White Widow - 2 freebies. Pakistan Valley - 1 freebie.
well obviously, depending on the strain choice , will make a huge difference on the heat it can with stand. If u can create enough ventilation in your box then heat wont be an issue, unless you are running a lamp that is too hot for your square footage. As long as you stay below 400watts you should be fine. If i was you, i wouldnt try and separate the chamber into two stages, maybe get a 3 foot light mover and a 400 watt MH/HPS dimmable ballast with an HPS and MH bulb, and make the chamber one process.. it will take a litlte longer but your yield will be a lot more and it will be easier to ventilate as one whole chamber vs two separate chambers. U can use the MH bulb for the seedling stage, with dimmable ballast u can lower it to 100watts for that stage and then bumb it up to 400 for veg. When in flowering you will want to switch your bulb to HPS (hortilux version) 400 watts the whole way.. In my opinion, that would be the best way to maximize your space and time. IF you get a 400 watt HPS they have air cooled hoods that u can hook up to you exhaust fan to relive some heat off the lamp too, allows you to get the light closer to the plant and use all the lumen output i know white widow doesnt like a lot of heat but im not too sure about the other two you mentioned... but the optimal flowering you temp you want to shoot for is 72-78, anything more than that, unless it is a pure sativa, will decrease your resin gland production
I was going to separate the bottom into two sides, one for veg. and one for flowering, but having the flowering side just slightly bigger than the veg. I really appreciate the info on the lights, I'm not an expert on lights but that really did come in handy. I also wanted to clone, I might as well just stick them in with veg. cycle? I did my fare amount of research over the past couple years, just never grew indoors so there is so much to experiment with.