Someone Help Me PLEASE!!

Well you definatley need more light. get some compact flourscent light bulbs (cfl) . In the u.s. i got a 4 pack of the 27watt (1750lumens) for $10.They are streaching so you need the light closer .(2-3inches) with flourscent lights. You also need then all in individual pots not just that one big one. With 25 plants you should get a hps or youll need ALOT of cfls.Tell me the most you can spend and ill hep you out.

 

Ready, fire, aim....

Please folks, why do you start a grow with no knowledge and then ask for help? That's like getting a car up to 80 mph on the expressway and then wondering how the brakes work.

You need a lot more light, check the light guide link in my sig. You need to get those plants into separate containers. You need to ditch the foil. You need to start a lot smaller. You need to know if your soil is pre-fertilized or not, specifically if it is slow-release or time-release pre-fert.

Start by reading the grow guide and other stickies, that's why there are stickies. To make it even easier I put a lot of helpful links in my sig. All the info is here, bro, but you gotta make most of the effort. We can help with specific questions but we can't type out the beginner's grow guide 10 times a day.

You ask what your next step is. It is to READ...a lot.

 

here's part 1 of what you'll need to know

Starting Seeds:

Cut small holes in the bottom of the cups you'll use and fill them with sterile professional potting soil, preferably a germination mix (like Fox Farms light warrior). Wet the soil until it's evenly moist and poke a hole in it 1/2" inch deep with the eraser end of a pencil or dry wall screw and drop the seed in and cover with more moist soil but do not pack it down. Most germination mixes consist of sphagnum peat moss, and 15% Perlite and 15% vermiculite. Put the newly planted seedlings under your 65watt cfl or 150 watt metal halide. Be sure to keep the temperature between 60.f and 80.f and make sure to keep them moist but not soaked, and they should germinate in 24 to 48 hours (some may take up to a week to sprout). If you have more seeds than you need or just want to put a few away, store them in a cool dry place (they can last for years).

Transplanting Seedlings:

Transplanting from smaller pots to bigger ones promotes root development. As the seedlings outgrow their cups and begin to become root bound, repot them gently and fill in the extra space with more potting mix. In order to continue growing a particular strain, pick out a strong female to use as your mother plant for cloning. This ensures future harvests of your favorite flavors.

Breeding Seeds:

Feel free to try breeding yourself if your situation allows. When F1 plants are crossed with each other, the results are less stable F2 seeds. These are not necessarily bad or weak; they're just not 100% genetically the same as the parent. For example, cross a White Widow female with and Afghani male. You will find the professional seed company breeders are not the only ones who can produce high quality genetics.

Clones:

What you will need:
1. Professional potting mix.

2. Rooting hormone (gel or powder).

3. A mild phosphorous rich fertilizer such as a liquid 5-10-5 NPK.

4. A tray with a clear lid.

5. A misting bottle.

6. A grow light (65-watt compact fluorescent or 150-watt metal halide).

7. A sterile sharp blade

Cloning Setup:

Begin by buying all the products that you will need to take clones from your mother plant. Rock wool works well as a substitute for potting mix to root your cuttings, but consider organic plugs and coconut fibers as alternatives.

The cloning area should be well ventilated and on the warm side (60 to 80 degrees) with humidity at 50% or above. Use 18 to 24 hours of light per day form a 65-watt compact fluorescent or 150-watt MH light.

Taking Clones:

Cut a 4 to 6 inch branch from your other plant using the sharp blade. Snipping the stem at an angle helps create a larger rooting site. Dip the bottom inch of the cutting in the rooting hormone and gently insert the cutting in your soil or rock wool to a depth of about an inch. Make sure the grow medium is moist and that it stays moist. Cloning trays must be kept off of cold floors: cuttings like warmth when they are trying to grow new roots. Use a spray bottle to mist the clones occasionally. A clear plastic dome over the tray can help seal in the warmth and moisture but also invites mold, therefore ventilate with small holes to allow excess water to escape. Not all cuttings will survive. You may lose 5% to 15% of your cuttings so take a few extra clones just like seeds. When your cuttings have a nice healthy root system and the foliage and stems to grow you can graduate your cuttings to bigger pots.

Cloning Tips:

A few important tips to remember - All equipment such as pots and blades must be clean. Unsanitary areas will create and harbor bacteria, pests and disease. To avoid disasters always practice good hygiene. Also buy a pH tester when using tap water to hydrate your plants. Continue testing the soil while you grow including the soil of mother plants. The term pH is the measure of your soils acidity of alkalinity (in other words the concentration of hydrogen ions). The pH scale goes form 1 to 14 (1 is most acidic and 14 is most alkaline). Keep your soil between 6 and 8 and you will be fine.

Take care of your plants as if they were your children: let them mature and don't be too rough with them Plants can die very quickly so watch them closely every day as they grow. IF you see a problem, identify it quickly and then remedy the situation.

Just remember that propagation is step 1 in a much larger process. You need to learn about all aspects of horticulture if you want to be a good grower. Learning to grow healthy plants takes time so stick with it and do as much research as possible when entering the wonderful world of cannabis cultivation.
just a little tid bit i've seen and now use myself hope this helps

 

here's part 2
If you want big healthy plants with big buds, it all starts with a big healthy root system. There are a few things you can do to ensure you get the healthiest root system possible. These include implementing a proper fertilizer program, repotting your plants utilizing a graduated potting program, pruning the roots a bit and watering correctly.

I will start with the fertilizer part of the equation. As we all know, with out food we die. If a plant does not get the food it needs it will get sick and die as well. A root systems favorite food is phosphorus (p): roots need p to survive and grow. Fertilizers have 3 macronutrients that make it up; (n-p-k) nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium ratio and several micronutrients. When you are picking out a fertilizer for your young plants' root system, look at the middle number. At the beginning of your plants life, this number should be around 15 to 30. I recommend fox farm big bloom from the second watering they get from the time they first pop the surface and gradually getting higher. When done right, I’ve gotten higher female to male ratios up to 80% twice (usually 60% seems to be the norm) but other times I’ve gotten 60% male, so it’s not an exact science. It is never too early to start feeding your plants as long as you don’t over do it, that’s why I use fox farm big bloom as it has a very low n-p-k ratio and it’s all organic. Never use chemical nutrients on young seedlings or you will burn the root system and possibly kill your plants. Slowly raise the amount of nitrogen you give your plants. This will give you healthy leaf growth during the vegetative period, which means more photosynthesis and a healthy uptake and processing of food.

Giving your plants adequate amounts of phosphorus throughout their entire vegetative cycle will ensure a healthy root system, which your plants will need when they start to flower. If you want big, fat, sugar-coated buds, then healthy roots are essential. Of course phosphorus is crucial for flowering too, so the number (p) throughout your plants life cycle should act like a roller coaster. It should be in the beginning then lower in the Veg cycle and much higher in the flowering cycle. The (p) number should be between 10 and 20 the first couple of weeks to give the roots they nutrients they need to grow big and strong and fast, then steady at or around 5 to 20 for the rest of the Veg cycle, then jump up to 30 to 52 for the flowering cycle. On a side note: for those people who thought k was for roots; k is used for creating a strong, healthy stock and branches. Therefore, raise the amount of k during the Veg cycle and you will help create the thick branches needed to hold big plump buds that everyone wanted

Any good grower has at least half a dozen fertilizers on hand at all times, not just 1 or 2. I recommend Fox Farms B.C. Nutrients along with any of the guanos. I use them all at some point, worm castings included. Now your number should look something like this: 10-15-10, 10-52-10, 35-5-10, 9-45-15, 28-14-14, and good old triple 20. It may cost you a little green but its more than worth it when you are smoking the green you grow; it is worth it.

Then there are countless products that are beneficial that you can add to your soil to help the roots work even better than they would have if you didn’t use them. I use sub-culture, #2 rated in the world and can be bought in the states unlike the #1 which is strictly for pot, but sub-culture works just as good and is cheaper. I also use ea/en plus actinovate/sp which is a biological fungus control which should never be used on plants before they have at least 2 sets of leaves. Also, plant success, which has 136,200 spores per cc, there are 13 different types of mycorrhizal fungi. If you add plant acids and amino-acids along with stuff like humic acid, both of which helps the fungi. You can get some amazing roots like the pros get without having to go to collage to get a botany degree.

Love your plants and they will love you back

 

from the size of that pot you will be able to get 1 big root system hope these help if not i have a few grow guide saved to my pc

 

is this joe who lives in gainsville?

 

Yes now you need more light.

 

Yes, more light, and when using fluoros get the plants to within 2-3" of the light. Don't let them touch the bulb but don't let them stay too far from it either.

 

Alright thoes lights will grow them for awhile BUT for 25 plants you want atleast 1000watts imo 2 600watts would be better. If you get 1000 watts of flourous youll end up spending WAY more then if you just bought an hps. Thats my opinion ,but good luck with your grow .

 

keep going with that light
they are to young to sex yet
when you trigger flowering you will be able to
tell sex

 

You sex the plants when you change your Lighting cycle to 12/12, after 2 weeks you should see the Pollensacks(male) or the Calyxes(female) although it could take longer. You'll need to grow your plants to eight Nodes or more to flower at which point you'll need either a HID light or more flouro's for more light intensity.
Remember to keep your light as close as possible and think about Training and make sure theres a fan on the plants to make the stems stronger and promote branch growth. As for your fert problem I personally wouldn't know, could be the soil your using or if you already used fertilizer it could be that, it sounds like a Nitrogen problem though.

You have a long way to go and if nothing else you will learn patience but for know get reading, there is a lot of people with answers to everything you need to know and knowing whats coming will make it easier to fix and deal with.
P.s Don't overwater if anything uderwater to a certain degree.

 

1. Read my thread on Epsom Salt.

2. You see preflowers long before your plant starts to produce bud. The is a thread startted by DevilDank in the Outdoor Growing with some pics.

 

"it could be a nitrogen problem!
i could need fertilizer
i might be watering it too much or too little
it could be too hot
it could be my soil"

Well nobody can tell you what you have done to your plant but we can give you ideas and your just gonna have to decide how to treat it cuz for all we know it could be more then one problem. If it were overwatered it would wilt not burn on the edges and if it were heat they would have wilted and dried up. I like to go all organic and try to stay away from commercial bought fertilizers so i wouldn't know which one would help you but it could just as well hurt if done incorrectly. Nothing is better then proper starting soil, with it you can go through all stages without adding any fertilizers.

If you find out the problem and it is a fert problem then remember to use only half the recomended amount. Fertilizer can help a lot just dont expect immediate results.