Soil grow

Discussion in 'First Time Marijuana Growers' started by desertgreennm, Nov 21, 2014.

  1. Used miracle grow organic potting soil. Veg went good, 3 weeks into flower and this happens. Was thinking nute deficiency, from research it's usually magnesium or zinc, maybe nitrogen. Added 1 tbs Epsom salt and 1tsp each Dyna Gro & bloom per 2 gallon of water. Thinking trying to water with lowered ph water 5.5-6 since soil ph goes up over time.

    Opinions, suggestions, comments?

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  2. #2 CanadianOrganic, Nov 21, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 21, 2014
    Nitrogen most likely.
    Yeah, N, yellowing bottom to top, front of leaf to back.
  3. You needed a bigger pot for this plant, it's way too big.  Definitely needs some regular feeding like 1/2 or 1/3 strength every watering for a week, or full strength once a week if you know she can handle it.  I know you might be wanting to flush and not add nutes, but you definitely need to be feeding these now as they have drained the soil dry of goodness and there is still some growing to do.
    The dyna grow/bloom combo seems a bit short on K and heavy on the N, but that's probably good for you right now.  
  4. Well most the big fans leaves have fallen off the 1st plant... Last watering ph dropped the water to 6. Was watering every 2-3 days before. Going to let dry for 4-5, then water with ph 5, with added nutes.

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  5. OUCH!

    OK...things that need to change.

    3 gallon pot for any plant over 12 inches, if you want health. 5 gallons for anything up to maturity, but at least 30 inches. Pot determines the ability to distribute roots, which determines how much each root gets fed and watered, which determines what gets delivered to what part of the plant...they work kind of like blood vessels. Too many, too close together, they fight over water and nutrients, and neither gets enough.

    Throw out Miracle grow...or ANY pre-fertilized soil. They use dry nutrients. Dry nutrients function by dissolving as water passes over them. Obviously, this means your water/nutrient solution is strongest ear the fertilizer node, weakest farthest from it. This means you chance burning some roots, starving others.

    Liquid nutrients evenly blend in water...if water gets to the root, the same level of nutrients reaches the end of the root farthest from the plant in the same ratio as it does the root closest to it.

    You're ROYALLY screwing up pH. Might be survivable, BUT...a pH of 7 is perfectly neutral. 99% of the time, anything natural wants neutral pH to perform best. There are SOME things adapted to alkaline or acid soil or water....not too many. Pot's not one of them.

    pH below 7 is acidic. Above is basic (alkaline). White vinegar is 2.4 pH. Do you really want to grow a plant in a 50/50 mix of pure water and vinegar? That's close to what you're doing to achieve a pH of 5.

    "Ideal range" is considered to be 6.7 to 7.2 by most folks I've read or talked to with any experience.

    But also, don't go nuts overcontrolling...rapid changes create shock, shock is bad for the plant. Constant rapid get the picture.

    If I had to guess, I'd say you have a combination of problems causing the symptoms. Too much acidity in the soil and water, too many nutrients hitting all the roots, since the roots are so clumped together, NONE of them have any distance from dry fertilizer nodes.

    And the pH climb is most likely because of the dry nutes in the soil. They tend to be base.
  6. #6 desertgreennm, Nov 24, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 24, 2014
    Too late in the game to transplant. Rather deal with diminished yield over risk of killing plants.

    Soil is alkaline. Have only watered once with ph@6.

    Know more or less what went wrong just need to know how to salvage or if what's being done is best chance for optimum yieldage under current circumstances.

    Working off theory that 1) water ph@6 will bring down soil alkalinity back to neutral. Using hydroponic solution. 2) plants have used all available nutes in soil, as previously suggested. feeding @ half rec dose of dyna gro&bloom 3) possible overwater. Letting more days pass between watering.

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  7. To the best of my knowledge, water won't bring down soil pH. It'll bring down pH READING, when tested, because the water AND the soil get tested, and the "solution" is a blend of the two.

    Never too late to transplant, if you're careful. I do it with my orchids all the time, and orchids are DAMN finicky flowers. They come out of the outdoor garden and go into pots in early September, as well as getting trimmed. Then they go into small soil pots. Midwinter, bigger pots. Late spring, right back in the garden. It works.

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