I have a jock horror auto that's 2 weeks old and only 3"tall while the others are on point. Can somebody tell me whast I'm doing wrong it's under 400w mh.18/6 cycle what do I do?? Sos Everybody Sent from my SM-G955U using Grasscity Forum mobile app
The light needs to be 16" from the top of your plant(s). Your plant(s) might be growing slow because of the genetics. Do not worry though. They will be able to catch up.
You will have to move it up to 20" then. that should help you. later on after this grow look into investing in a LED grow light. they are alot better to use.
That's kind of hard to say based on the information you've provided But assuming they're all getting the same conditions, could be lots of things - from retarded or damaged seed, phenotype, to something in the soil in that pot that isn't in the others (assuming you have each plant in its own). Pictures could help us help Cheers!
All these have the same soil and were transplanted the same day. I started in rockwool then placed on soil(ocean forest,miracle growsoil , bat guano,wormcastings, pearlite,clay pellets. I started lighting with cfl then changed to 400w mh.
I've run my 600W MH between 18-22" for years. 16" would be about right....but not the answer to your question...unless the others are significantly taller than the 3" one.
Autos have/grow smaller weaker roots, therefore take less fertilizer and water especially in the beginning, I suspect between the light being a tad far away and a little overwatering it needs more aeration, one trick with organic soils is to fill your finial planters weeks ahead of actually planting them I feed some tea, malted barley, worm castings, coconut water to get the soil microbes hoping....
Autos don’t transplant well. It’s best to start seeds in their final container. A light seed starter also helps, they don’t need any notes till the end of the 3rd week. They have a tendency to stunt if exposed to nutrients in the first couple weeks. I would also bump the light cycle to 20 hours on. With autos, you need the longest possible days, since they grow so much in a short period of time. My thread “Autos make good Organic sinse” has some great info on growing autos. Cheers Os
Me neither. But, IME, if it's just one plant out of several that's having problems, it's the plant, not the conditions or the soil.
Autos don't bounce back, they continue from where they've been set back to. An example from my current grow: I popped two seeds for "best of two", couldn't chose which one to kill, and ended up transplanting one of them into a smaller pot. It took the transplanted one a good week to resume her growth. Their relative sizes day 38 (the small pot/plant is elevated on a bucket) So the best you can expect from your midget in the back is that it become a mini-version of the frontmost one on the group picture. The one to right will also be smaller because it's in a smaller pot. I hope that gives you a bit of an idea of what you can expect Alright so here's my 2 cents: There are 2 things that catch my eye looking at the pix. There's the angle of the fan - make sure it's not pointing directly at one plant over longer periods of time.The way the small plant is leaning it almost looks like it's getting blown at? Make sure that's not the case. I do sometimes let a fan run straight at seedlings when they've grown about 3 nodes tall to encourage stem thickening for a day or so, but not over any extended periods of time. And there's the soil, which looks kinda dry there (and I could be wrong, assessing humidity via pix is always iffey). Did you moisten up the soil well before transplanting the seedlings into them? Having the soil hydrated helps with watering small plants; then you can really just add the small amounts they actually need in the beginning (from what I see in your healthy plant's soil, I'd guess you're trying to water them that way), without getting the soil soggy (and potentially creating anaerobic pockets that will allow bad things to thrive and damage your plant). If the soil goes too dry on the other hand, any microbes living in there (and you'll always have bacteria) will protect themselves from the "drought" by encasing themselves in hydrophobic materials. So when you go to water that soil, it will just run through the pot and not be held by your substrate. And that's not something yourplant's roots want to grow into. Assuming the hydrophobic situation and seeing the paling monoleaves on your little one, if it were me I would be feeding the soil with something rich in nitrogen the plant can absorb and process quickly (so she can stop sucking it out of her own leaves), and something that would act as a wettant for the soil. Aloe is the most touted wettant hereabouts, but actually any plant with nice mucilage production (so borage and comfrey too), chopped up finely so it gets all gooey and mixed into the water, will help. If indeed your soil is going hydrophobic in that pot, I'd water down the whole pot to runoff, and if the water just flows through, remove the water from the runoff tray and water it into the soil again after a few minutes. In any case she looks like she can use a mild but effective nutrient booster to get her going. I like to make green smoothies for quickly plant available nitrogen. Best from the shoots of vigorously growing plants (tomato shoots are a charm and the next best thing to healthy cannabis leaves, which contain all the nutrients your cannabis plant can want, in the perfect proportions ), or plants known to be fixing nitrogen, or generally high nitrogen plants like nettles. This of course depends alot on access to these. More independent of location/climate would be to sprout some seeds, blend them with water, and water that into the soil in a circle around the plant, as far out as the leaves go (=drip line). I've used sprout mixes meant for people just as well as alfalfa, barley, or rye. It's not so important what it is, the main thing is they are sprouts and will contain a whole lot of enzymes and nutrients important for growth and plant development. (plus, they also are a bit wettant) And I definitely would put some mulch on the soil surface to protect it from those 400W and help stabilize humidity too! Cheers
The way that thing is laying over and getting leggy, I would try to lower the light a little bit every day for a few days. Other than that, just be patient and let it do its thing. Water lightly with aloe, if you have it. Don't do anything drastic, just be patient. cheers os
Thank I will try this out and get back with you as it comes along. The small auto is jock horror I hot from attitude seed bank, the others are Afghan kush regular, and snow ripper regular. I see jock isms more sensitive than the others. U didn't get dirt during transplant till after transferred. I started with cal light then went to 400w metal halide 20 inches above plants. I started all of them with rapid start. Now just ph 5.8 water since they are small. I mixed up fox farm nutes and dosed them once and now just water. I don't know if I should stay mh or go back to cfl till budding. Any feed back on this!?!
Stay with the MH, CFL sucks for the kind of light intensity autos need. Also, they don't look as if they had any issues with the light to me. So I'd just stick to what you're doing