Should I give up on my grow?

Find out what's wrong with them otherwise the exact same thing will happen to your next plants. There's no point wasting seeds like that, clearly there's a reason your plants are so stunted

 

Just a quick glance over your posts "Is this a deficiency" and "how are my plants doing." and from the looks,all 4 are stretching too much, or too much for my liking anyway. I would definitely bring the lights closer.

I was about to suggest feeding nutrients at at least 1/4 strength as the leaves look radioactive/bright green going yellow and losing colour but it looks like you've already moved up to half strength. To me they look hungry and starved, probably used most of their energy trying to reach for the light.

If you have started feeding half strength then I would keep check on the tips of the leaves for any burning or crispy edges as they look a bit young/small to be feeding half strength, but I've never used fox farm nutes.

Oh, and I would just slug it out till they show clear signs of dying or they recover. It is a weed afterall and they can take a beating. This will be a good opportunity to gain some experience for if a similar issue occurs again in future.

 

Go to the fox farms website go to the store locator and I bet at least a few nurserys pop up... call ahead and ask if they carry fox farms soils because some stores will just sell the nutes or just quit and never updated... try to find ocean forest or happy frog... buy you 16quarts+ of perlite as well to mix with it... also with ocean forest and the correct transplants the plant won't need food until halfway into flower... happy frog isn't as strong so you can start feeding a couple weeks into flower with proper transplants.

Also OP whenever you have a ph problem like that I always recommend just flushing the crap out of it with ph'd water... always helps any slacker plants that want to act up for some reason.


Robs New Journal RQS SQ#1 Clones

 

Yeah but I promise fox farms soil will work better than Kellogg's or sand.. course sand can be added in place of perlite for aeration but I just prefer perlite... but OP my plants always had problems until I went and bought quality soil from a nursery not what Home Depot or lowes carries...

I can personally buy 3 cu. of happy frog for 20 bucks which is a lot of soil.... mix with 30-40% perlite to spread it out even more... that's enough soil to grow 4-8 plants to harvest depending on the container.

 

Have you got a fan that you could place on the ground blowing up towards the lights and pushing some of that hot air away? What sort of temperatures are you getting now? Because in one of your threads you said the highest was low 80's which is fine and shouldn't cause heat stress. It would show up with the leaves curling up at the sides like a canoe/taco anyway, or if the leaves stomatas were to close because of a sudden influx of too much heat then the leaves can show signs by curling under like an umbrella. Neither of which are showing in a concerning way.

For the humidity, try getting a bucket of water and place it inside to increase humidity through the evaporation, or hang a soaked towel over a bucket.

I would bring the light as close as possible and get a fan blowing up towards it if the temps are getting too much. Hang a soaked towel or add a bucket of water to try and aid with increasing humidity and lastly feed with quarter strength nutrients PH'd to 6.5 and let it dry.

 

Ah, the lights are at a good height where you have them now, the new growth is looking goodand heathy with a lot less spacing. The stem section beneath still looks flimsy though, might want to support the stems and then have a fan blowing over them to help build the strength up.

About your water, I would mix your nutrients and PH at least 24 hours beforehand, and then measure the PH before you use it and adjust again if necessary. If the PH in your runoff is rising that could also be a sign that the plant is eating up the nutrients fast.

The red stem towards the top could be early signs of phosphorous deficiency, but I think it's more likely to be caused by the heat swinging from 80's down to the 60's, though I wouldn't really worry about it too much unless it progresses further and starts showing as dark smoky spots on your leaves, in which case you need to increase phosphorous or make sure PH is in the right range for P intake (6.5-7.0).

 

I've never ph'd my runoff before I've never found a good reasoning to... but honestly I'd start over if I were you those plants are just to small... start over buy you some ocean forest don't feed anything at all for a at least a month or two... just water ph'd at around 6.0 in veg and 6.3 in flower. And just watch them grow... you really are overthinking this... look at people's journals you could follow their grows step by step and get the same results... you'll notice 90% of successful growers on grasscity do not recommend lowes or Home Depot for soil... there's a reason...

I'm done though lol just my 2 cents... hope it works out growweedeasy is a good site to get you up and going in steps.


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I think the slow growth has been down to the low feeding earlier on, or PH has been swinging out of range so it wasn't able to feed properly back when you had the bright radioactive looking leaves. If they are auto's then I may be worried a bit, but I'm going to assume they are photos, in which case there is definitely no point starting over yet.

In the wise words of the Steve Haines - "Pressure can turn shit into diamonds. It can also turn diamonds into dust too. What’s it going to be today people?"

If you want to grow with a bit less stress in future, I would have a look at Mick's coco coir guide. He grows really beautiful plants with his setup and he's done a great detailed write up on it too.

 

In the meantime start some new plants as well - it sure isn't gonna hurt anything. It could be me but are they overwatered?

Get some different plants going now anyhow.

J

 

Coco bricks are nice and cheap, Maxibloom is a single fertiliser you can use throughout both vegetative and flower, it's cheap and saves mixing 2-3 different sets of fertilisers too. But just a thought anyway, want to get this run finished with what you have first!

Just let it dry out properly to where the pots are noticeably lighter before next watering. Keep an eye on the PH of your feedings and try to get your water/nutes ready 24 hours beforehand to keep PH in check if it keeps swinging. If they are handling the 1/2 strength without any tips burning I'd keep with that rather than dropping to 1/4 strength, but if the tips start going brown/crispy over the next few days drop it down in strength till they grow a couple more nodes and the stems have more stability.

I'd also focus on getting support to the stems and some air blowing on them, or when you transplant them bury the stems deep so only 1-2cm of the stem is above ground.