setting up a room with 3600 watts, need some advice and tips

Discussion in 'Grow Room Design/Setup' started by OCHydroponics, Oct 28, 2014.

  1. so i will be setting up a room inside of my house to grow my medicine. i would like to set up 6 600w lights and position them to do one massive scrog. i have yet to choose the strain but im open to suggestions on something that yields decent and looks nice.
    i would not be running hydro as i dont wanna over load on all the cords and shit.
    my plan would be to have them all in 5 gallon smart pots with some organic soil running some organic teas.
    how could i set this up? 
    the room is 10 ft by 10 ft with 2 windows on adjacent walls
    how many amps does one 600 watt light use?
     

     
  2. Approximately 2.75 amps each.
     
  3. So I could put 6 of those lights on one 20 amp circuit?


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  4. That is 2.75 at 220/240v....(I should have pointed that out in the first post.)
    5.5 amps at 110/120v.
     
    So 3 per 20 amp circuit.
    Or 6 if you are running them on 220v power.
     
  5. Ahhhh ok makes sense
    So I have a dryer runnin on 220v in my room I'll be using but I'll be taking it out
    I could run all 6 on an extension cord in that one socket?
    Maybe put the fans on another extension cord from another room?



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  6. I do want to document this grow
    I'm gonna have two scrogs. Each under 3 600 watt lights. 4ft by 7ft area for each scrog
    I plan on vegging a high yielding strain with some decent resin production for 6 weeks then flower

    My options are white rhino, white widow x big bud, or critical kush.
    What are your guys' opinions ?


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  7. You can get a light controller that you plug your ballasts into and then you can connect heavy wire to run from the controller to your dryer plug....then put a dryer type plug on the end of the wire you ran (you can then just plug in the plug). Or just wire it right in if you know how to do it. If not hire an electrician, you don't want to burn down your house.
     
  8. Tryin to avoid hiring an electrician for this if possible
    As long as I keep 2 lights on one 15 amp 110v circuit I should be smooth right?
    I really don't mind running hd extension cords across the house to connect lights to different circuits
    I live alone with my dog in a 3 bedroom house and back house


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  9. If you have to use extension cords, get the best you can get...rated for much more then the power you are running thru them.
    Plug one ballast per cord. The longer you have to go the larger (awg) the extension cord should be.
     
  10. Oh and most ballasts you can buy longer power cords....I know  I have seen 16' and 25' ones.
     
  11. That's cool I didn't know they had longer power cords
    I will most likely be goin the route of the extension cords. Thanks for all your help, I really can't wait to get this started. I'm shooting for 40 plants. 20 under each scrog!


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  12. Not a problem, glad to help. 
     
  13. Extention cords and grow lights aren't a good mix. You seriously run the risk of starting a fire.
    If I were you I'd buy a 40 amp breaker and hard wire that to a lil gray box heavy duty timer
    http://www.littlegraybox.com/timers.html
    This device will safely run all your lights. And you don't need an electrician to hook it up. I have hooked up a dozen of these things and I'm not an electrician.

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  14. I've got a carbon scrubber question
    I'm gonna have 25 plants under a scrog in a 9ft long, 6ft tall, 4 foot wide tent
    Would one Phresh 6 inch 450 cfm carbon scrubber hide all those plants in full flower?
    I'll be using a 400 cfm fan exhausting in a straight line through the lights out the tent


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  15. 1 amp per 100 watts roughly if running on a 110V system (look up Ohm's Law, and realize, your ballasts will have inefficiencies...a very efficient digital ballast for a 1kW HID draws 10.4 constant, and 10.8 starting on 110V). Half that if running 220.

    If you'll look at your ballasts, they should tell you how many amps they draw constant and startup. Your fans will tell you their maximum amperage draw (during startup), and your water pumps will be marked in wattage, with the same 1 amp per 100 watts.

    Now realize, you're going to be pulling 3.6kWh per hour off those lights alone, not counting inefficiencies...on your 18/6, this means 64.8kWh/dy....the average house pulls about 30kWh a day for normal living. What was your electric bill before starting to grow? Because you just tripled it, and then some.

    If you're not fully legal, this is where many people get caught...the electric company knows how much you're using, and that often is what leads to getting busted. So be careful, if you're not fully covered, legally. Consider a high end gennie in a sound insulated enclosure and deep cycle marine batteries...if you can supply DC power, you can bypass ballasts. How to do this is all over the net, but not usually regarding growing lights....look into solar power and LED or fluorescent lighting, as solar is DC, and using purely LED/fluorescent prevents the need for a $2500 rectifier, so many off-grid folks give how-tos online.

    This calculator site will help you, in the future, but remember at all times, knock 10% off your voltage for the figures if running off AC power, and compensate for inefficiencies (rule of thumb is 5% off rated figure).
     
  16. Also, if you're going to draw anywhere near a consistent 20 amps on any single circuit in the house, make certain it's at LEAST 14 ga wire from the breaker box to the sockets used.

    If you need to run a fresh breaker (that's what I ended up doing), you can put up to 4 220 sockets on a single circuit, which means 2 new 220 circuits with a total of 6 outlets would run a total of (counting normal inefficiencies) 22 amps on 2 circuits...so you could run a pair of 3 socket 220 lines into the room and power all your HIDs with far less worry about electrical fire, short, or circuits blowing (and reduce the dangers of blowing your main breaker when the house is most active).

    To know just how desirable this is to do, look at your electric bill averages over the last year, take the highest use, pre-grow, divide that by the days in that month to know what your daily use is, on average, multiply by 1.2 to compensate for variations (this assumes that your heaviest use day is 20% higher than average use for that month...a nice padding), divide the results by 4, double THAT result to arrive at the highest use period (during 1/3 of the day, half the house's power is used. Less used overnight, by far, relatively little used when you get up, back to overnight level figures, plus a hair, when everyone's at work or school, but evenings, between coming home from work/school until bed, house use is double what it's been the rest of the day).

    Do that, you have your peak watt use...convert to amps as I just showed you, and compare that to your main breaker's rating.


    Example:

    If, in July, you used 1,493kWh, divide 1,493 by 31 (days in the month), to get 48.161 kWh/dy average use.
    Divide 48.2 (round up for safety) by 4 to get 12.05, then double that to arrive at 24.1 kWh used during the heaviest draw hours of the day. Multiply that by 1.2 to compensate for deviations to arrive at 28.92. Round up and divide by 8 to get the hourly use in your highest draw hours (30 divided by 8) gives you 3.75 kW used per hour during heaviest draw time...

    3.75kW equals 37.5 amps. Pad that to 40 or 45, depending on your comfort level, because even in that 8 hours, there will be deviations...for instance dishwasher, laundry washer, dryer, water heater, stove...if any or all of these are electric, when they're in use, they'll increase your draw at that time).

    So if you have a 60 amp main breaker (normal in houses built before 1985), you can't do it. You're going to have added a minimum of 37 amps draw at 110V, or 18.5 at 220....not counting fans, inefficiencies, pumps, anything else you have to plug in.

    Even if you pad low....your draw's going to be an absolute minimum of 58.5 at peak if the numbers for your normal consumption pre-grow was anywhere near 1400kWh on your highest bill...a single 150 watt incandescent bulb being turned on would blow the main breaker.
     
  17. Thank you for a detailed response, I am aware of the light difference im about to face especially being on a perpetual grow
    One tent will be running 18/6 fully the other 12/12 all day
    I do have an electrician coming over and setting all this up. I realized I should do that to take the safe route
    Legally I can have 24 mature plants. I'm capping it at 21.


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  18. No problem, brother-man...I'm relatively new to growing (one single plant test 2 years back, three full indoor crops of dwarfed plants), and on my first BIG tent in the garage (where I have 10 feet of headspace, so I can finally grow to mature height)...so less than 2 years actual experience...but I worked as a general contractor remodeling Victorian homes, bringing them to code without invalidating their status as "Historic Victorians" for years, and in commercial plumbing/pipefitting/HVAC for a bunch of years before that...so I seek advice on the plants regularly, but know the tech specs on *equipment* inside out and backwards, you know?
     
  19. Oh wow that sounds like a pretty interesting job there. I bet you got to see some nice looking homes.
    I'll definitely see what my electrician says about all this but he did assure me its be running smoothly
    He says he's splitting everything into two 40 amp circuits that are not connected to anything at the moment
    So I'll have 6 600w lights 2 inline fans 4 oscillating fans and 2 700w ac units split on the 80 amps

    Total spent on both set ups was 2,000 so I'm gonna make the best of it


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  20. Nice...and if you have a journey sparky willing to sign off on it, I'd say you're good to go.

    And yes, got to be inside some GREAT looking homes...and some absolute travesties. I lived in kansas City, Missouri while doing the restoration and upgrade on Victorians....a lot of the "historic neighborhoods" are now not very good neighborhoods.

    Imagine walking into an absolutely gorgeous 3 story with all the gingerbread either intact or skillfully replaced, located in a neighborhood where you know for a fact it's possible you'll be shot because they don't know your face (yes, that happens in the Swope Park area), to find that the landlord who contracted you in order to keep the house to code so they could keep renting it had put cheap ass carpet on top of the original true hardwood floors, put in vinyl windows, and redid the kitchen with Ikea cabinets and counters....and it is still kept on the lists as a "historic Victorian" through that...but if you screw up while redoing wiring or even repairing/replacing wall, it jeopardizes the house's status...which would result in not only not getting paid, but a lawsuit that'd cost you your company, and a chunk of your paycheck for life.


    Had one where the idiot who owned the place had ripped out a pair of old cast iron and enamel claw foot tubs, replaced them with damn fiberglass tubs and inserts...because the enamel in the tubs was chipped...not even to the metal. And I had to come in and pull out his cheap remodel and redo it with replica fixtures that would maintain the atmosphere (I did, however, get the bonus of having two antique claw foot bathtubs to have re-enameled ad sell-got $3200 apiece for 'em).


    And yeah, if you have a pair of 40 amp circuits, and balance the draws on them right, the circuits will bear up easily...what's the main breaker rating, though? Clearly, if you have a 40 amp circuit to begin with, it's not a 60 amp....lol
     

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