Scrog, lollipopping and QB's

Discussion in 'Growing Marijuana Indoors' started by Psychographic, Apr 10, 2019.

  1. I'm under the understanding the main reason to use the 4000 for veg is tighter node spacing. My grow room is very tight on space (about 8'x10'of usable space, and a 7' ceiling), I have a tent for veg, and flower in the open part of the room. To move the lights or the plants to switch them to from veg to flower will be a major PITA. I do a perpetual grow and if I can use the same lights for both veg and flower would make my life much easier.

    I'm currently using a Mars 300 for veg, and a 400w HPS for flower. As long as I don't run into problems, I can usually keep up with my harvest needs as I split the harvest with the owner of the room. I would like to keep things simple as I really only have time to visit the room once a week for a few hours.

    So if I'm doing a SCROG setup, I don't see how tighter node spacing will be all that necessary. Will using the 3000k boards be OK for vegging, or am I missing other parts of the benefits of using 4000k?
     
  2. Yes you are correct, when ScrOGing there is much less of a worry about stretching. 3000k will be fine, 3500k is a good temperature though, is that an option?
     
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  3. edit
     
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  4. Wouldn't I benefit more in the flowering stage with the 3000k?
     
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  5. More blue = more trichs ime
     
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  6. Makes sense, more uv. I’ve read ppl use MH the last week or so of flowering to boost trichome production
     
  7. I use leds samsung f series
     
  8. #8 Talkative, Apr 10, 2019
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2019
    I have both. germ to harvest it is not that much difference and I would def go with 3000k. The 4k/3k mix is super nice. The straight 4000k is what I like during the pruning process. It keeps your vegging plants green and pliable. Perfect for scrog. Swapping out boards is only a $PITA and a whole room could be swapped in minutes. But if you have multilple boards a mix of both 3k and 4k is wonderful. I have 50/50 but more like one 4k to every two 3k woud be slightly more optimum for germ to harvest.
    oh yeah, and one thing I keep forgetting. Long nodes are wasted space.
     
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  9. Yes but have a look at the output of the Samsung LM301B diodes, I'm assuming that's the ones you'll be getting...
    These are taken from a pdf file available on their website

    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]

    Notice you get that extra blue intensity but the red hasn't gone down much at all, you also get more green and yellow too. Given the choice I'd go with the 3500k to control any stretching. Failing that, the 3000k will also work very well

    I have experimented with different lights over many years and that is just not the case at all

    These LEDs do not give off any ultraviolet, blue is not ultraviolet. MH is a waste of electricity if you have access to HPS, it yields terribly and no more trichome production at all
     
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  10. Mh veg great and many ppl have gotten good results from adding mh back at the end of flowering. I’ve always read MH/blue spec lights put out the most uv light. Done a quick google search to see if it mis remembered.

    Metal halide lamps let offthe most UV rays because the light is focused in the cool, or blue, end of the spectrum.
     
  11. I'll have to live with the 3000's for now as they've already been ordered. Based on all the love for these boards, I'm sure I'll be ordering another set of 4 if work stays busy. I think I'll try the 3500's next time. Thank you for all your help.
     
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  12. 57884965-5155-4828-905D-4E0AF898B6E3.jpeg Per hlg graphs the 288 drop a lil in the UV specs also
     
  13. A2F28440-B656-4BE9-9634-35776BF048FE.jpeg 64F0F0AD-A90F-44C3-87A9-AADB2442866C.jpeg Even both the 3000 and 4000k 288v2 dip into the Uv range
     
  14. Ultraviolet is between 10 and 400nm, Samsung LM301B diodes don't produce anything below 400nm

    [​IMG]

    These chips are THE most efficient available at this time, do you honestly think Samsung would have them waste any energy at all producing light that we cannot see?
     
  15. I’m just going by the info found on the hlg led website. I assume the graphs there are legit?
     
  16. I’d guess the reason why it shows uv range on hlg graph is bc uv range ends at 400 so if 400 spec is in QB then they have uv spec, however small that may be
     
  17. Are you referring to the tiny blip of purple next to the 0.0? That's means it's nothing, 0.1 is almost nothing and it's nowhere near that, I think that purple colour line is just a marker, it's not raised at all. Do they actually state that their boards give off ultraviolet light?

    Heres a link to the Samsung website, they make the chips
    LM301B | SAMSUNG LED
     
  18. “Light “we” cannot see” is irrelevant I’d guess. It’s whats useful to the plant.
    lol. Uv is only like 3-5% of light giving off by sun. I’m sure that lil purple spot is more then .1 seeing how each square would be 10. That’s more like 1-2% not .1...... and I’m 100000% sure hlg didn’t add the purple there just bc or to add some more color to the graph. I’m sure It’s there bc that’s what they tested it at. Plus as u stated uv is up to 400. That means if the 301b diodes is 400 up to whatever then it puts out uv @ 400. But idc about that not why I got qb. I was just going by this dudes post about his experience. More blue= more trichomes. That’s bc blue spec has some uv in it while red does not..
     

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  19. Double post
     

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  20. What do plants have to do with anything? You actually think these diodes have been designed to grow plants?

    Blue doesn't contain ultraviolet, where are you getting this from?
     

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