Samsung HinFlux L09 build

Made a couple of these so far, posting for others.

Easy build to make and seeing that there's 382 LM301B diodes in them, I would compare them to 'one and a half' HLG 288 V2 board.

I didn't bother lighting this up in series and went parallel. The reason I chose parallel is that I could position the modules more freely/individually. If someone wants to run this setup in series, this isn't the right thread.

I also took advantage of my first time purchase code from Arrow and bought what I needed there. Got the stuff in three days with free shipping. Pretty good considering it came to Canada from the States. That's another thing, the prices listed are in CAD, not USD.

I'm tacking up the list for codes, but also note this is for 8x modules, so two builds...


The LM09 modules are just under two feet each and have 2 -strips of diodes that run down the center of them. Easy wire connections that allow for daisy chain. The diagram shows the physical measurements in millimeters (mm).

Here's some stats:


This is what they look like:


According to the stats, the units typically run at 44.6V and max out at 49V. Therefore using a 48V constant current driver is fine. Those numbers are for 1 amp.

The modules are using the ELG-240-48A, but 240V for 4 units is 60V. But consider that I ordered the A-unit which is capable of modifying voltage by +/- 10% as well as 50-100% amperage, just running the drivers at lower settings makes this a compatible driver. It also allows for the addition of one more module if someone likes; ie. you can run five modules instead of four.


Heatsinks. I don't know if you need them or not. I have one unit on a metal shelf, and I made a set of heatsinks for the other unit. I originally had some finned heatsinks made, but UPS gone and lost them. After seeing how hot they got (ie. shelf unit), I decided to just make heatsinks using an 8' x 1" flat piece of aluminum.

The heatsinks were designed by placing a module onto a heatsink and marking the spots where I needed to drill the holes. I used a drill press with a metal bit. Use the size that your screws/bolts. Don't drill the holes with the module on there (duh!) and you should file the excess off when you are done.

For those heatsinked modules, I added some thermal paste (on the heatsinks) before screwing in the modules. I applied the paste and then I spread it using a metal card.


I just used some self-tapping screws to affix the modules to the heatsink. You can use nuts and bolts too, but this was less work and they on there snug.

*Each heatsink is longer than the modules and have enough room to add an extra hole at each end (about an inch each end). Make sure the space is large enough to accommodate the screw/bolt without touching the module when screwed in and that the hole is near the edge of the heatsink so to bolt up to the frame.

Frame:
the frame is the cheapest way to hang em using only two adjustable hangers that I thought of.
I used four pieces of 6" angle aluminum and drilled a hole at either end of them on the same face. This is where the modules bolt/screw into. The four pieces were also drilled out on the other face so that I could bolt them together (for the center) or as hanger holes (for the outer sides). I drilled these holes nearer the center so that the screws wouldn't interfere with the module attaching screws. For the center pieces, drill out one piece first, then align it onto the other piece and mark where the holes should be before drilling the second piece. I used nuts and bolts for the frame/heatsink attachment.
I also drilled an extra hole in each center piece for where the wires will come out (not seen in figure, seen later).


Afterwards its just a matter of bolting it all up. Make sure that the diodes are facing down and that hanger holes are facing up!
Here's a picture of the frame but I forgot to drill the two holes in the center for the wires... doh!

Wiring:
I like using a small piece of 18/4 to keep things a bit more tidy. You can buy it from most hardware stores, but its also included in the shopping list I attached. I like the official 5:1 Wago connectors I used, also on the list. You also will need a powercord, or an extension cord.


To keep things easy in my mind, black and red are positive (live) and white and other colors are neutral. Green is always ground, but sometimes I use blue, because I'm out of green. Doesn't really matter in this case as the 'case is grounded' in this unit, so I will ground my frame to something else. If you want to ground your frame, use a 18/3 cable and hook your ground to the case. The Input wires are connected to powercord (that goes to the wall socket). The output wires go to the lights; I decided to use some crimp plug ins here, so I can just unplug the system without cutting wires (if I need to move them). I plugged them to a 18/2 wire (solid copper); (+) black and (-) white...

The black wire hooks to one wago and the white to another.
Using a small piece of 18/4, I wired white and orange to the (-) pole on separate modules and the red and black wires to the (+) pole of separate modules. I did this for each module at the center of the frame. I pressed the wire though the extra holes I drilled in the center frame pieces. Hard to see, but the 'orange' wire is used in the top modules of the following picture (and are common); the red is shown in the bottom (and are live).


I placed each white and orange wire into the Wago connected to the (-) white wire. I placed each black and red wire into the Wago connected to the (+) black wire.


and that's it, plug it in, set the dimmers, hang your driver at the wall. I say hang, because the potentiometer on the driver is on the back side, so you won't want to mount it to your wall.

 

Couple of action shots including the unit that is just mounted on the metal shelf (without heatsinks):
Very Bright:

Can split the units up (no heatsink, no frame, used twist ties to hang the modules):


Updated my wire shelf with some corrugate plastic:


framed and wired:

Current use:

 

You can set those boards up any which way you feel. They have smaller models as well.

 

I purchased most everything from Arrow. The product numbers are in the first attachment.

 

No, here. But the price went up drastically! For that price you can get a V2 288 knockoff off alibaba.

You may be better waiting for the price to drop and/or for the new Samsung Horticulture Boards released in the next few months.
Here's a link, more articles at the bottom of that link.

 

yea, sure np bud, here's an older thread.

 

heya bro, hope things are going good.
Samsung is suppose to release some strips soon with some reds in them. idk... can just add reds. I'm still in the process of making some unique 680, 690, and 700 boards.... just waiting on some heatsinks atm.
I think the 4x 96 problem was answered by me already in another forum (in Add on to qb96s....). By adding four strips, you can place them in between in a cross formation and they could meet up in the center. I personally think this is the best way to extend the canopy on the 96s.

 

I like both options, but honestly am going to refer you to @Nobueno714 if you are venturing alternative 288 boards. He has recently been investigating some Bava and alt lights and checking voltages and may help regarding 288s.

Strip modules are very good too, as they kill the hot spots... see, light boards get brighter in the middle and then suffer at the edges, and drop dramatically past the lights; strips will give you a better coverage without the dramatic hot spots.

Samsung strips raised in price last January, idk why. Might be Alibaba ok, but coming from China, its going to be much more expensive due to tariff increase in the USA(?) ... idk

@greenjaw , are you in North America? Because I would strongly suggest you just get some lights from HLG. They have very good lights and great warranty service. It seems more expensive, but really, you get the goods, and their prices are actually pretty good. Additionally, in your tent, its size and shape... I would try these.

Some people have been using them. The are the QB144 V2. Grab a four pack and run it off a 320W driver with a dimmer (so I advise a B-type driver and then add a potentiometer). Install the driver outside the tent. I bet you will be better off since you can just hang the lights individually in the four quadrants of your tent.

Good luck and welcome to GC!

 

OK, I will refer you to these guys, but I have not tested their products. Their boards look good too.
Samsung is suppose to have released new strips... but I haven't seen them anywhere. They are suppose to have Samsung red in them.
Oh and see here:
DIY LED LIGHTING FOR 2X2 AREA.
@Personalusegrow has shown great success with his strips too!