Dank tank - I was in the same boat about spraying while the lights were on a few years ago - I simply didn't know any better. This is done for several important reasons; first, because with almost any pesticide and water mixture, spraying while the lights are on, especially if you are using strong HID lighting you can and probably will see negative effects on your leaves - it's just not good for your foliage. I've also see it burn pistils, turning healthy white pistils brown. Not good. Spraying as soon as your lights go out will alleviate these issues. Secondly, and also just as and perhaps even more importantly, almost any of the natural pesticides that we use, from Neem to mints/hot peppers/garlic (whatever) to Spinosad - these organic compounds are very light sensitive. Light degrades them very quickly, reducing their effectiveness considerably. By spraying at lights out you will get the full effect; by spraying while your lights are on these sprays will deteriorate quickly and simply won't work anywhere near as well. If you are that infected with mites right now I suggest using Spinosad (http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spinosad) 3-4 times every 3 days to completely eradicate them. This product is a bacteria that works by "overexciting" the insects nervous system, and is also used on both pets and humans, and is approved for use in organic food production. You can find it in garden centers under the brand name of "Captain Jacks Deadbug" and "Monterey Gardens Insect Spray". Sorry to hear about the mites - they can be devastating. J
Let some cigarette butts soak in water til it turns all brown. Spray that on the plants. It is completely harmless to plants, but poison to insects. You probably don't want to spray it on buds, but during veg it works pretty good.
Thanks J Been away for awhile, but I am still in the organic hunt I will be updating soon Buddy. Newbie, I'd heard of this last year. Then thought,,, why the hell would I do that?! I don't need any more nicotene than what I already consume.
Yeah, thats why I said probably don't want to spray the buds. If you use the leaves too, then I'd probably stay away from it. I've also never used it on this. I have only used it on vegetables. It was in one of my growers guides for use on this though.
Tank- try Dr Bronner's Peppermint Soap as an insecticidal soap! It's WAY "old school" gardening, but it works! http://www.ehow.com/how_5791479_use-dr_-bronners-insecticidal-soap.html The soap can be easily rinsed off the next day with tepid water, removing the mite's bodies and any traces of soap. You just do a 3 day cycle- Spray day, rinse day, rest day- repeat a couple of times and the mites are gone! Be sure to spray the underside of your leaves thoroughly! The runoff from the spray and rinses will be broken down in the soil into nutrients that you plant can use. And no nasty taste will be left on your buds! Dr Bronner's soap can be found at most health food stores, some markets, and online. It is a great face soap, too! A little $5 bottle will last "forever"! Granny
Nicotine is an effective pesticide, however I'd stay away from this method because commerical, processed cigarettes have all kinds of other toxic chemicals in them from the way they're processed. If you're going to do this, then either get some American Spirits (all organically grown, although the paper used is not, and does still contain the FSC chemical), or get some bagged pipe tobacco and use that instead. There are much fewer chemicals in long-cut pipe tobacco than regular cigarettes because it's minimially processed (most likely does still contain synthetic pesticides from when it was grown, though).
Or you could just use plant material that has not only camphor but other non toxic compounds as well, in regards to moth balls. "Mothballs are highly toxic when ingested (they have a sweet odor and taste, making this more likely), and will cause serious illness or death.<sup>[3]</sup> In addition to this, using a large quantity of mothballs in a basement or a living space may cause serious respiratory problems in people living in the space.<sup>[4]</sup>" http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mothball Might not want to put that onto your consumables.
Biodegradeable dish soap, organic aloe vera juice, organic yucca extract.. Just a small amount (a few drops, tops) of any one will work.
Or you could use potassium silicate, ie Agsil or Dyna Gro Protekt for one. Aloe vera combined into this solution works wonders for a surfactant/emulsifier mix.
I'm not big on spraying plants especially when in flower. When I have no choice but to spray I mist with original Dawn dish soap. Why use pesticides if you don't have to? Keeping your grow sealed and conditions in the optimal range will help keep pests at bay. Have you considered predator mites?
I rely on oils derived from plant material and a healthy ecosystem in my soil to keep my girls happy and clean. I have used bacillus thurengiensis to take care of a fungus gnat issue a while back but nothing else as far as a live control system. The oils I use would most likely incapacitate or kill the predators anyways. While it is safe to apply these oils up to the day of harvest, common sense would tell you that's a bad idea to spray that late. I don't spray anything I'm going to consume up to 2 weeks before I harvest, just as a precautionary habit. Imho, if you need to do so that late in the game in an indoor grow, it wasn't meant to be.
this is the organic growing section... recommending chemical solutions like dawn soap is at least somewhat off topic Just a mild FYI
You obviously did not read that very well . I said I do not like spraying and that it was my last resort doing so. As previously stated by others, soap is effective. My choice of soap may not be organic, but the suggestions are already out there. Proper conditions and predator mites are about as organic as it gets. Maybe I was too subtle with that suggestion for it to be picked up on, or maybe you should stay in your lane and not worry about correcting me.
I'm not worried about it, but I am glad to point out the inconsistencies where they exist at least in my garden, realizing the inconsistencies and correcting them has helped me progress and i seriously doubt dish soap helps any thing
Seems to be something to it. It has worked for me as well as others with no damage to plants. You can doubt all you want. http://www.ehow.com/about_6308868_dawn-insecticide-gardens.html http://www.gardenguides.com/105816-dawn-insecticide-gardens.html http://www.essortment.com/homemade-insecticidal-soap-recipe-51604.html Automation in a sealed space and clone quarantine periods for plants from external sources have kept bugs out of my grow for two years, I'd rather not fuck with them. You shouldn't have inconsistency in your indoor grow as you control the environment. If you are growing outdoor, I'm glad you're learning and adapting. We are all students. I'm taking notes for my next outdoor garden for sure.
Dish soap acts as a surfactant, meaning it lowers the surface tension of the water solution you add it to. Why use that when you can use aloe vera extract/juice and receive more than just that aspect? Ever read anything on SAR (systemic acquired resistance) and/or salicylic acid? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Systemic_acquired_resistance http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salicylic_acid Here's a decent read on aloe, if you're interested. http://www.herballegacy.com/Baldwin_Chemical.html A simple search using the term 'aloe for cloning' should bring up quite a bit of discussions on the implications of using it on your cannabis/garden plants. Worth checking out, at least imo.
This is exactly the type of information I am taking notes on. If you have any other recommendation for plants that I can be planted around my gardens I'm all ears. Adding plant oils to your mix will actually help the surface tension issue that you pointed out, this is stated in at least one of my links. Mixing that way will not only kill the pests quickly but also keeps them away for a much longer duration. The links were in regard to the statement of doubt. Yet you guys have missed my point and are focusing on soap. PREDATOR MITES, I have not sprayed my plants in 2 years. The bugs you choose should vary by condition of your grow area. No additional taste, mold/mildew, or burn risk like with spraying. the predators will stick around and breed as long as they have food and proper conditions. they will die off when they have no food and you no longer have a problem.
For me it comes down to the fact I like to "foliar feed" them once a week or so anyways, so I just use that time to contribute towards my IPM routine as well. Calcium phosphate, aloe vera extract, potassium silicate, kelp tea, neem tea, nettle tea/fpe, comfrey tea, etc. Whatever happens to float my boat for the time, if I have the materials on hand. To each their own.