Return of the Herbage - Strawberry Cough/600Watt HPS/Scr0g/etc.

Discussion in 'Hydroponic Grow Journals' started by DarthHerbage, Feb 10, 2009.

  1. Sup Jim. It doesn't look like any kind of ladybug I've ever seen before, but it is similar. If I find any leaf damage I'll do a SM-90 foliar spray.

    I don't think I'll be able to run any ducting out the top of the res. It's just too big in comparison to the reservoir. What I think I may do is cut a small slit in both sides of the res and cover it with some doubled up screen door mesh. I have a small fan I can sit on one side of the res blowing in and I'm hoping to get it to exit out the other side...

    Thoughts?
     
  2. Alright.

    So I sliced off all the dead/mostly dead leaves. I dumped the reservoir, cleaned it out, , and cleaned the sterilizer and airstones. I drilled some extra holes on the side of the res where the air hoses come in, and some on the other side for ventilation (hopefully).

    I filled the res back up with RO water, then added 10ml Micro/20ml Bloom.

    Now I'm waiting for it to run for awhile before I check the PH.

    Need to call Hanna tomorrow and see where my meter is. I have no idea what my PPM or water temp is until I get it back.

    Also need to top these suckers. I might do it tonight...

    Still need to put the new flowering cab together, etc. I'll work on that this weekend.

    Need to get the screen together too...

    Shit. Too much stuff to do , too little time....
     
  3. It would probably work better if you have the fan suck out air rather than blow in. As long as there's a big enough hole it should work fine. Post up some pics when you get it rigged!
     
  4. looks great man, just stoppin by to see your progress. keep up the green work
     
  5. Quick vid of the res in action so you guys can see how bubbly it be.

    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-JC3YECdzAc"]YouTube - Broadcast Yourself.[/ame]
     
  6. #106 hobbiest, Mar 18, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 19, 2009
    Your video is set to private so no one can view it. But I love your grow!

    As for that lady bug I've seen those quite a few times... I'm no entomologist but.... When I was a little kid I remember asking my grandpa what it was and he told me that it was in the same family as a lady bug, and that it ate aphids (he left them on his tomato plants). Quite common in Canada... I recount seeing them on at least 5 or 6 occasions throughout my life.

    Different coloured ladybeetles to calm your nerves:
    [​IMG]


    Also looks like a carpet beetle, which are not harmful to plants

    http://www.ento.csiro.au/aicn/system/c_881.htm
     
  7. Yeah, well I haven't done anything worth taking pictures of yet. All Ive done so far is to drill some extra holes on both sides of the res and hope for the best. Truth is, I won't know the temp of my water until I get my meter back from Hanna. I really need to give them a call tomorrow.

    Thanks for stoppin in, man.

    Waddup Joker! Where ya been? Where's our boy? What's goin on? Why say why?!?! When will it be?! What? HuH? OH YEAH!

    Thanks for the compliment and for stoppin in, brutha. Don't be a stranger.

    Waddup hobbiest. Thanks for stoppin in. Thanks for the heads up on the video. It should be viewable now.

    And thanks for the ladybug pics. I've only seen the traditional red with black spots before, so that puts my mind at ease. +rep





    K folks, I'll update once something changes or I start work on the flowering cab, screens, or new res.

    Peace. :smoking:
     
  8. Well, got my good meter back today.

    PH is trying to rise on me. It was 6 so I put a ml of PH down in it. I'll check it again in a bit.

    PPM is about 140.

    Water temp is about 70 and has been all day. Good thing is that it was fairly warm today so there's no reason for me to think the water temp should get higher. I have some frozen ice packs and ice cubes for back-up.

    Temperature under the light is about 71F. RH is 35 or so.

    While the plants are growing nicely, the orange spotting is still going on. If I keep the PH stable and the water temp down for the next few days, and the spotting continues, I might have to start coming up with other possible causes.

    Well, keep it green folks. The Lakers are on. Later.
     
  9. Your res looks awesome, nice a churning. If your Ph is riseing before you top off you could probably benefit from some more nutes.

    Your Ph should fall and Ppms rise BEFORE you top off , then they will do the opposite after top-off.

    Your plant must be useing what little nutes it has causeing the Ph to rise even before you top it to max. That's a pretty well established plant for 200 ppms. You say your buddies is blowing the fuck up? Is'nt he running like 750ppm right now ?
     
  10. Yo Darth, first off nice lookin grow. But on the topic of venting your res, I was planning on doing the painted pvc elbows on my rez too and so far I've come up with this:

    Threaded PVC is the only thing that will work so if you get a male adapter and a female elbow then you should be able to get some decent ventilation in there.
    Ive seen the threaded ones go up to 1.5" but home depot will most likely have 1" max. Probably wanna throw some cheese cloth or panty hose over the opening to keep stuff out the rez as well.

    Let me know how this works for you, also if you make the holes a lil too big and have light leaks just get some rubber washers and they'll seal it up nice.
     
  11. What up Hype. Yeah, I think I definitely need more nutes.

    Ya see, even though I've had the water temps down to 66-72F for at least a week or so now, the orange dots/orange taking over the lower leaves has not stopped. I've actually taken it upon myself to diagnose the problem as either a magnesium or calcium deficiency. Looking through different threads and what not I have seen a few pictures of mag def that looks EXACTLY like the leaves that have been taken over by crusty orangeness, and seen some pictures that look EXACTLY like the beginning of cal def in the form of the orange dots.

    Since I'm using RO water and only running 2-300PPM this makes sense from my perspective. So, I'm bumping the PPM up to 900 (@ .7 conversion). I believe that's the recommended Lucas Formula PPM for CFLs.

    Getting the water temp under control has apparently really helped the roots blow up. They are now coming out of the sides of the cups and are white as hell. Meanwhile, the tan/browning roots do not seem to be getting any worse. Hopefully that issue is licked.

    Thanks for showin up, mang.


    Sup GOONie. I 'preciate the advice. However, I seem to have gotten the water temps under control. Even though the outside temp has been up, I've been able to keep the water temps to 71-72F max.

    I don't really want to mess with my res at the moment, as the plants are getting pretty big and I just don't want to go screwing around chopping holes out of the lid right now. But I may experiment with the new res I will be needing to make soon for the clones I should be taking in the near future.

    By the way, do you mind getting a little more detailed about what you mean. Other than a few reservoirs and what not, I'm basically a DIY n00b.

    Again, thanks for the suggestion and for stopping by.






    Can't find my stupid micro SD card so I can't take pics atm but here are the vitals:

    In general, they're blowing up nicely. I actually topped them a few days ago and am getting ready to put the screen on...tonight or tomorrow (Im busy as fuck nowadays).

    Temperature under the light at the res lid: between 65F-75F

    Ambient temperature in the box: 62F - 72F

    Relative Humidity: seems to stay around 35 - 45

    Water temperature: between 67-72F max

    PH: had some fluctuations, and it dropped down to 4.8 for a day. Took it up to 6.2 for a day. Now it's sitting comfortably at 5.78

    PPM: 330 atm (I added 10ml/micro 20ml/bloom must 2 days ago) but I will be amping the shit up tonight. I think I'll go with 25ml Micro/50ml Bloom and see where that takes it. I'm aiming for 900




    Peace out, bruvaz.
     
  12. The plants will show deficiencies because of the pH. As a matter of fact, the majority of deficiencies I've seen in my plants and other peoples are because of pH.

    Looks like you got your water temp controlled somwhat. Once that stabilizes the pH will too. No need to really bump your nutes up to 900, maybe 650? In the end, its all your choice man. Good luck!

    :smoke:
     
  13. Wassup Jim! In my research/reading of the Lucas Formula literature, I got the impression that it's necessary to run the PPM at the (approximately) recommended amount in order to not suffer from any deficiencies.

    I thought that 900 was what I was supposed to aim for with plants as old/established as these...

    ...that's why I wanted to get it up to the target level. Am I wrong?

    I can't remember offhand if you do Lucas or not in that kickass Aero set up of yours. :smoking:
     
  14. No I don't use GH nutes. I just recommend you don't pour a bunch of nutes in there only to have to dump them again or something because your pH or temps get out of whack. Go for what you think is best man.
     
  15. What up Jim. Yeah, I feel ya on overdoin it.

    However, I'm pretty sure that when trying to do the Lucas Formula (I stress trying considering my success) if you don't use the recommended strength for your type of lighting that you will suffer deficiencies.

    With my girls looking like they have both cal and mag defs I thought about just tossin some Cal-Mag in, but that would defeat the purpose of running Lucas. With the Lucas Formula, supposedly if you keep the recommended amount of nutes in there you will not over-nute or under-nute so there shouldn't be any burn or defs. Of course, there will always be a bit of variability due to strain IMO, but running the approximate amount of recommended nutes is supposed to be key.

    So I figured I'd at least take the PPM up to the recommended level before adding Cal-Mag or trying anything else. That way I can see if that fixes my orange spots/leaves by itself.

    Also, I'm going to go ahead and start stockpiling RO water in the event that I have to dump. I've decided I shouldn't be so averse to changing out the water. Sometimes it can really help.

    Thanks for the input, mang. :smoking:
     
  16. Well again, if your plants show deficiencies and your pH is out of whack it's because of your pH not the nutes. If your pH is spot on an consistent, and they still show distress, add more. That's how I would go about it.
     
  17. That's a good point.

    However, my PPM is way too low for the Lucas Formula anyhow, so I should be correcting it anyway IMO. Also, I think the way the Lucas Formula works is to keep you in the correct PH range with the nute strength, meaning they work in tandem. So, by not using the correct amount of nutes I may have inadvertently fucked up my PH somewhat which would have in turn caused lockout...causing deficiencies.

    A bit of a clusterfuck lol. However, as I said that's a good point, but I see both issues as problems. If lockout is causing my deficiencies, I'm sure my PPM is way too low as well.

    Here in a minute I'll see where I'm at and post some specs. I haven't checked it since I added 30ml Micro/60ml Bloom last night.

    Thanks again, Jim.
     
  18. #118 DaPharaoh, Mar 26, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 26, 2009
    Can you close each of the four outputs on air pump separately?

    [​IMG]
     
  19. #119 Hypeshot, Mar 27, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 27, 2009
    Very good Info Jim. Ph relative to temperature. Now does this mean that you can still maintain stability even at lower or high temps (not relative to oxygen levels) as long as the Temperature is constant and Ph adjusted before hand?

    those look like very minute changes to me, Looks like it would take a 100degree Fahrenheit differance to drop Ph from 6.5-6.0... and Exponentially More Heat to somewhere in the range of 300 degree difference to drop from 6.0 to 5.5.

    How are his Temperatures connected to his Ph when it would take soo much more heat/cold than what is takeing place to really make a difference?

    http://www.lenntech.com/Correlation-between-pH-and-Temperature.htm [​IMG] You might have to convert C to F.
     
  20. I don't know much about that, but they're talking about pure water, 0 ppm. I'm guessing (I've never experimented) when you add 1000 ppm worth of nutrients to your water changes will be more extreme.

    That's why you don't or can't pH R/O or pure water because the pH will vary at different temperatures.

    I'm no biology major, so take what I say with a grain of salt. I could be wrong, these are just what I've experienced.

    Also, what they aren't experimenting with that WE as growers are is having the water source constantly tapped into by living organisms which cause the pH and ppm to fluctuate as they use water and nutrients.

    It's hard to replicate things like this because we lose a good amount of water in our systems due to evaporation, which causes the pH to drop in a nutrient solution due to lost h2o.

    I just might experiment with this because I'm so intrigued.
     

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