Return of the Herbage - Strawberry Cough/600Watt HPS/Scr0g/etc.

Discussion in 'Hydroponic Grow Journals' started by DarthHerbage, Feb 10, 2009.

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  1. #61 screwdababylon!, Mar 7, 2009

    yeah dude that looks kool - easy to do)))
    as to underferting and shit i didnt have roots problems before)
    could be wrong
    u gonna drop some new pics
    but the main idea here is to belive it can make it)
    its a shitty plant and its got some stamina as well at this age + healthy roots
    get that UV Whateva shit in there if its light is good for sterylyzing water without fuckin up the roots itself)))
     
  2. #62 DarthHerbage, Mar 7, 2009
    I haven't removed the pump yet, but have turned it off. It's been off for a couple days now. I will be removing it tonight and hopefully swapping an airstone out for the UV sterilizer. It seems as if there was ever a time I needed it in the res, it's now.

    I cut out some covers from a briefcase/bag. It was already light proof but I put some aluminum tape on it for reflection as well.

    So do you think what happened is that the light was getting to the roots, damaging them, and the leaf spotting is just a symptom of it?

    The new growth is coming in nice and green, but the spotting still seems to be working its way up the plant. I'll take pics in a bit...(as well as readings and everything)

    Thanks for the help, smoove.
     
  3. #63 DarthHerbage, Mar 7, 2009
    I'll do some work and drop some pics in a bit. I believe they can make it, but I'm leery of brown roots/root rot after my first grow.

    What you mean it's a shitty plant? You take that back, mofo!!!

    UV Sterilizer is designed for hydroponics to sterilize the water. http://www.wormsway.com/detail.asp?sku=SCW500#

    Thanks for stoppin in, Screwsephus.:smoke:
     
  4. #64 smoove, Mar 7, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 8, 2009
    I don't think it was light that damaged roots... in my opinion it's either from over watering, high water temps a combination of the 2.

    My money is on... it started with over saturating the root zone which weakened or directly damaged them... which in turn made them even more susceptible to further damage from other stresses the plant can normally tolerate... ie: elevated ppms, pH swings... All things combine to decrease the ability for your plant to fight off moulds... which leads to root rot.

    I'm not suggesting that it's full blown root rot cuz I don't know for sure... but brown slimy roots is never a good thing. But! Hopefully some new healthy roots keep growing and the plant recovers just fine...
     
  5. #65 DarthHerbage, Mar 7, 2009
    S'allright.

    Oxystone out, UV sterilizer in.

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  6. #66 screwdababylon!, Mar 7, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 7, 2009
    dude it all looks fine to me!
    dunno why ur so worried. i would just cut those 2 ugly leafs
    (they seem to be damaged for over 60%)
    what kind of light are u using now?
    all thay need is nutes + light)))
     
  7. #67 Hypeshot, Mar 7, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 7, 2009
  8. #68 DarthHerbage, Mar 8, 2009
    For vegging, I use a 4 bulb 4 foot long T5. It's 234 watts and 18000 lumens or so. Seems to work well for my space.

    If the plant keeps up the green growth and everything I'll eventually chop those leaves off.

    Any time there's brown roots, especially this early on, I think it's cause for worry.

    Thanks for stoppin in.

    I have two different 4 outlet air pumps. One pump is for this round. The other is for the next round that I will be starting when I get clones off these. I'm going for always having 2 plants in clone/veg, and 2 plants in flowering. I was running 4 different airstones off the pump I'm using atm. The UV Sterilizer runs off an airline, so I had to lose one airstone in order to use the Sterilizer.

    Also, the Sterilizer creates a lot of bubbles itself. They aren't fine bubbles, but big ass bubbles that cause the whole reservoir's surface to get all choppy. I think it's a good trade off, as it will kill off any root rot causing bacteria in the water, it makes bubbles that help keep the water moving, and I still have 3 4-inch oxystone airstones making a lot of fine bubbles.

    Interesting read. Thanks. :smoke:
     
  9. #69 screwdababylon!, Mar 8, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 8, 2009
    i was runing plants under 150 cfl bulbs at 900 ppm
    it really looks like its gonna make it
    anyway if u wanna do it that way it will work too)

    am i wrong smoove?
     
  10. #70 Jim Dunlop, Mar 8, 2009
    Those leaves are showing a pH problem. Check, recheck, and recheck again. Calibrate your meter and try to get the pH as stable as possible. I'd quit the SM-90 or use a much lower dose.
     
  11. #71 DarthHerbage, Mar 8, 2009
    I'm going to chill on the nutes for a little bit until the leaf/root problems are under control. Roots are still brown. Leaves are still getting spots...

    Smoke any of that Kush yet?

    Well, I ordered a cheap back up PH meter and it came today. I calibrated it and checked my PH. It was 6.7. So, maybe that's the problem with the leaves... I contacted Hanna and am shipping this one-hundred-fifty-fuckin-dollar meter back to them on Monday.

    Anyhow, so the leaf problem may be being caused by the PH, but what about the roots? They seem to be staying the same. The newer roots are turning tan, etc.

    Thanks for stoppin in, Jim.
     
  12. #72 DarthHerbage, Mar 8, 2009
    And since I put the sterilizer back in there I'm not going to bother with the SM90.

    Put 3ml of PH down in the res and will check it in about an hour to see where it be.

    Peace.
     
  13. #73 screwdababylon!, Mar 8, 2009
    its cool any way man.
    why u dont want to cut those leafs?
    if the new growt coming up nicely!

    havent smoket Kush yet its drying)))

    P
     
  14. #74 smoove, Mar 8, 2009
    screwd... lol, it's cool you're always looking through the rose-colored glasses... but when you have leaf damage like that... it's not fine. Yes they can recover and yes they can tolerate a good amount of abuse, but it's far from ideal.

    and darth I agree with jim on the leaf damage. get that pH under control :smoke: something that may help with being more precise is to dilute your pH down in some water before you add it to your res. Let's say 1 drop of pH down brings your pH down .4. Well, what if you want to drop it from 5.8 to 5.6? By diluting your soution you can literally go from 5.6 to 5.575 if you want to. I keep a gallon of distiled water mixed up with 1 tablespoon of pH down ready for action.
     
  15. #75 screwdababylon!, Mar 9, 2009

    lol! just trying to stay positive)))
    thats a damn good advice
    i always mix that shit myself
    forgot that someone might need such info.
    looks like im a bad teacher)
     
  16. #76 DarthHerbage, Mar 9, 2009

    The PH was down to 5.7 last night, but I'm getting ready to check it again. The new growth is still getting spotty. Theoretically, if it was the PH being off causing the leaf problems, how long would the PH need to be in the correct range before the spotting stops?

    And thanks for the heads up on the diluted PH down. I actually hadn't considered it, but it will definitely help me out.

    Thanks, guys.
     
  17. #77 DarthHerbage, Mar 9, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 9, 2009
    So I checked my water and what not. Here's the readings:

    4.47PH
    750PPM
    77F water
    82F under light
    30 RH


    That was with my 150dollar meter. Then I checked it with my new cheapo PH meter.

    The PH read 4.7.

    Soooo...........

    I dumped half my water out and I'm refilling with plain RO water. That way I'll (hopefully) raise the PH and lower the PPM simultaneously. At least one gallon of the add-back was cold and out of the fridge. I also dropped a tray of RO ice cubes in the res. Hopefully this will lower the water temp a bit, even if only for awhile.
     
  18. #78 Jim Dunlop, Mar 9, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 9, 2009
    What light do you have over the res? I would raise it a few feet above the res to try to keep the water temp down.

    Ok. Here's what I would do:

    1. Dump the res.
    2. Take the pots out, fill something up with ro and h202 (hydrogen peroxide)
    3. Soak the pots in there while you pump your R/O and refill the res
    4. Clean the res with a light bleach and hot water solution, including the lid and the airstones and let it dry or dry it out
    5. Add another pump if possible, the more you have the better your roots will look.
    6. Insulate your res, the high temps are probably causing your pH spike/drop.
    7. Refill res, add a very light solution of nutes (200-250 ppm)
    8. Turn pumps on, let it bubble for a half hour or so
    9. Check pH. Add pH up or down according to reading
    10. Let bubble for another half hour or so
    11. Ideally you should let the system run overnight with the lights on to see how much the water temp rises, but you probably wont be able to do that unless you have another system.
    12. Once pH is 5.5-5.8 put the pots back in.

    The first thing you should have in check is the water temp. Once that is below 70 or so, everything else will stay stable.

    At res temps above 72 the amount of dissolved oxygen goes way down so you will need to add a lot of airstones to supplement this. Your roots are brown for this very reason.

    I'm attributing all of your problems to res temps.
     
  19. #79 Jim Dunlop, Mar 9, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 9, 2009
    I have also come to the conclusion that you NEED this

    That is for lightproofing intake/exhaust. All you need to do is build that but only use the one elbow and mount it on top of your res. Guarantee your res temps will drop 10 degrees.

    Any PC fan you might have lying around will do. If you don't have one they're pretty cheap at radio shack or something. Once you pick a fan out you need to get an AC adapter for it. The guys at radio shack can help you with the correct amps adapter.
     
  20. #80 DarthHerbage, Mar 9, 2009
    I appreciate the advice, Jim.

    However, there are a couple issues standing in the way of me doing all of that.

    I won't be able to do the fan thing regarding the res any time soon. But, I'm going to go about lowering the temperature a different way. I'm going to raise the light a couple inches, but mainly I'm going to change the temperature of the room that the closet is in that the grow box is in. By pretty much closing all other vents, opening the vent in that room full blast, and turning the AC on to about 65 in my apartment I will be able to lower the ambient temperature which will in turn lower the water temperature as well. It worked well for me when I did it before, and I assume it will again.

    As to dumping the entire reservoir, there's a bit of a problem with that as well. There is only a 3 gallon reservoir hooked up to my RO system. Therefore, the most I can get out of it at any one time is...3 gallons. What I can do is fill another tub up with 3 gallons. Then in another 3 hours when the water res is full fill the tub up with another 3 gallons...and repeat the process. However, this will take at least a day.

    Seems like a good idea though. I can soak all the stuff in H202. That's no problem either.

    When I get a chance, I wouldn't mind trying the fan in the res. I already have a pretty powerful computer fan. How would I be attaching this PVC elbow to the res? What would hold it on there?

    Thanks again for the advice, mang.
     
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