Return of the Herbage - Strawberry Cough/600Watt HPS/Scr0g/etc.

Discussion in 'Hydroponic Grow Journals' started by DarthHerbage, Feb 10, 2009.

  1. Pure RO water has no stable properties. It is stripped of everything, good and bad.. You cannot get an accurate measure of ph or kh due to the way the test kits work. I believe they look for specific ions or electrolytes.

    Guess it's safe to assume that the RO is comeing out at proper PH levels. K+ to Jim
     
  2. Well, hell. This RO-PH'in business is starting to seem familiar now lol. I'd forgotten.

    Thanks for the info, Jim.

    I have no idea how to really test my RO drinking water then...

    But as far as my hydro water goes, maybe I can put a little Cal-Mag in it, let it sit awhile, and then PH it?

    I don't want to burn the young'uns.

    My only point about the MH my friend is using is that he's saying it's making a hell of a (positive) difference from using the HPS for flowering. It's all good on his end apparently. I just haven't had a chance to get over there lately.

    Anyhow, thanks for the feedback fellers.

    I'll update when something's goin on.

    :smoking::smoking::smoking:
     
  3. thats great man im glad to hear it i just dont have the resources right now ive wanted a MH for a while and havent had the chance so after hearing good things from your buddys end i might end up getting one glad to hear things are goin well!

    alright man take care:D

    roll it
    light it
    smoke it
    pass it my friend peace
     
  4. #24 Jim Dunlop, Feb 23, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 23, 2009
    You don't have to worry at all about the pH of your R/O, just ppm. Seedlings should be fine for a little while with plain R/O, but once a small network of roots shows you need to bump the ppm up.

    Yes if you want to pH your R/O it's best to add nutes first.

    Good luck man. I'll be stickin around.

    edit:
    If you add cal-mag, it's best for a very small dose or it will stunt the plants for a little while.

    Also in the beginning stages before any adequate root system has developed it's best to keep the water temps on the high side I've found. Once they're established you should dump that water and put some chilled stuff in (around 68 degrees).

    Do you have any pics of the seedlings?
     
  5. Yeah, I went over there today and they look awesome compared to last round at this stage. I'm attachin pics of his and mine.

    roll it up, light it up, smoke it up, inhale, exhale

    (i love Cypress Hill :smoking:)

    I thought it was important to get the PH set once they had roots in the water. One of mine already has a root in. The other has a root halfway down to it.

    I was only going to put a small amount of Cal-Mag in. I just wanted to put enough in to get a decent PH reading. However, since the PPM is about 110 I'm hoping that's enough to get accurate readings already so I don't think I'll need to put anything in it.

    As I would like to do the Lucas this grow so I don't have to drain the res, I'd rather not bump the water temp up any. I've already had my encounter with root rot and I don't ever ever ever ever ever want to do it again lol. I appreciate the advice but I'm going to do my best to keep my water temps below 75F the whole grow.




    Well, I went to my homie's house tonight, and everything's lookin good.

    No idea about the PH as my meter has apparently shit the bed. I've got a cheapy meter comin in the next couple of days and I plan on giving Hanna a call tomorrow.

    His PPM is about 350 or so (tap water).

    Pics:

    Aurora B #1:

    100_5926 (Large).JPG

    Aurora B #2:

    100_5927 (Large).JPG

    Himayalan Gold:

    100_5928 (Large).JPG

    Nice roots:

    100_5929 (Large).JPG

    Altogether now:

    100_5930 (Large).JPG

    Only thing I'm worried about is the first Aurora B's lower leaves seem a bit crispy. I'm not referring to the first leaves as they're brown on all the plants (including mine) except for the Himayalan. This is because they had to live in my humidity dome a little longer than I originally intended.

    We need to get an accurate PH meter over there, stat!

    Here's the pics of mine. Both Strawberry Cough and both still babies. They seem to be doing a lot better now that I rearranged the placement of the cubes. The first one has a root halfway to the water. The second already has one in the water. The green leaves on top just came in in the last day or two.

    me1.JPG

    me2.JPG

    I have no idea how accurate my meter is at this point. It's reading the PPM pretty steady at 115 or so. However, I tested the PH two different times about an hour apart. The first time it read 5.2. The second time it read 5.8. I guess I'm alright. And the damn thing says the water temp is 74F which makes no sense to me. The ambient temp in the room is below 75... Even the temperature sensor next to the plants and under the light is reading 77F right now. W...t...f.

    Can't wait for the new PH meter.

    Well, thanks for lookin and all dat goodness.
     
  6. #26 Hypeshot, Feb 24, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 24, 2009
    The PH of Ro water is NOT stable over time , the reason your PH is fluxing is because you don't have nutes in it. Eventually it will reach an equilibrium. ( something about Co2 dissolving from the air and giving the RO water stable properties)

    If you really want to Ph your RO water there is a aquarium product called RO right , it adds all the stuff required to take stable PH readings BUT i do not know if it will effect PH. That's a shot in the dark, I really don't think you need to worry about your water , just worry about getting some nutes in it.

    If you want to run Lucas your PPM should be at recommended levels.:D even on seedlings.

    (after a good bit of reading) I do not think it can damage your electrode if you test RO water , you may not get accurate readings but I can't find any info on this causing damage to your electrode.
     
  7. Fuckin wacky lol. So all the people that use RO water for their grows have to use nutes in order to make sure to achieve the correct PH range for their growing needs? Daaaamn lol.

    Well hell. I thought even with the Lucas formula you waited for a decent root system before adding nutes. It just doesn't make sense to me to throw 1100PPM at my seedlings. You sure?

    Thanks for the info. I'm going to try to test my tap water a few times over the course of the next hour and see if it gives me different readings or tries to fluctuate any.

    Again, I appreciate the info Hype +reppage. :smoking:
     
  8. >So all the people that use RO water for their grows have to use nutes in order to make sure to achieve the correct PH range for their growing needs

    It's just because Pure Water has no buffers in it , so the slightest contaminate from the air or anything will cause Drift. Soon as you get some nutes it will buffer the Ph so it won't drift easily. ( I think )

    your plants are fine , start off food slowly if your unsure. Just get something in there so that you don't have to worry about fluxuations and all the trickery with your meter
     
  9. #29 HerbalRemedies, Feb 24, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 24, 2009
    About your pH and electrode questions:

    The pH of Distilled water is 7. Meaning that the water is completely pure and has not been in contact with anything that may alter the pH.

    You can measure the pH of distilled water, but it is meaningless. The reason they say not to store your electrode in distilled water is because over time the filling solution in your electrode will migrate to the distilled water it's being stored in. It's actually recommended your rinse your probe with distilled water in between readings.

    With seedlings, they either get straight RO water for one - two weeks, or I add 5ml/gal of CalMag Plus to the reservoir. This should bring your PPM's close to 230. Adding CalMag early usually ensures I won't run into any of the typical problems most people do early on. For the record, I see a lot of people suggesting not to add anything until week 3... I've never made it that far without seeing deficiencies.

    Also a quick thought on the Lucas Formula: (From here down is all completely based on my personal experiences with the Lucas Formula)

    Personally I could never use Lucas' "recommended" Formula for my plants. They always burn. I have tweaked it specifically for my White Russian as they are a bit sensitive anyway. Just to give you an idea of where I am at, these are the stats for my current grow:

    Week 4 of Flowering
    0 Veg Time
    pH - 5.8
    PPM - 1000 - 750PPM is the Lucas Formula, the other 250 is CalMag.

    If I were to pump Lucas up to 1000 with 0 CalMag at this point in the grow, my plants would suffer. I've ran the recommended doses once and it turned out badly resulting in a full system flush.

    For sprouts / early veg I do not recommend using the full strength formula. I'd chop it down to about 1/4 of the recommended nutes and add CalMag. But that's just my opinion.
     
  10. whatup whatup!

    lookin good holm!
    i agree with HERBAL u can add nutes now!
    id start with 400-500 ppm and raise it to 600-700 in few days if u dont see any problems.

    peace!
     
  11. Yep exactly what herbal said. With hydro you need to add nutes to the res sooner than 2 weeks especially if you're using R/O because it doesn't have anything the plants need in it. Soil plants can feed off whatever is in the soil for the first few weeks.

    Just watch out for over ferting the young ones, I'd give them a small dose of Lucas (I don't use GH nutes so listen to Herbal.) I'd try to keep it under 400 in veg, you really don't need that much.
     

  12. So is there a minimum PPM that water needs in order to get an accurate PH reading? Just curious because while my meter seems to do fine with the ph calibration fluids, it still has issues when taking readings of my reservoir water samples... I dont' get it.

    Yeah, I thought my plants were alright. I just wanted to get the water PH'd. In hydro the PH range is so important that I want to keep it where it needs to be.

    Thanks for the advice and for stoppin in, mang.

    Can I assume I can replace "distilled" with "reverse osmosis" in what you're saying here?

    Both my meter and the cheap PH meter I got for my friend say to rinse with water in between readings. I do rinse them with a little tap water in between, as it doesn't every specify as to the type. I store them both with the recommended Hanna storage solution, and immerse mine in the recommended cleaning solution once a month etc. It still seems to fluctuate a bit when reading my water samples as I said earlier, but works just fine in the calibration fluids. (My PPM is about 260 atm btw)


    That's kind of what I would like to do. I would like to tailor my PPM to the strain, but since I'm unfamiliar with the strain and still a bit of a n00b I'm thinking later on when they have decent root systems I'll use the Lucas with a little Cal-Mag similar to how you are.

    I don't like to add much nutes for the first 2-3 weeks unless they get real big real fast. I like to wait until they have a lot of roots in the water and some size to them before I add nutes. I think it's because I learned that it's better to under-do things than over-do them...and easier to fix.

    I also don't see having anything above 300-500PPM right now. I think they'd catch fire at 1100PPM lol.

    Thanks for stoppin in, and all the advice man.

    Sup screw! Sounds like a plan mang. I'm going to be putting that damn cabinet together in the next couple weeks man. You going to be around to help me out? I'm going to need it lol.

    Thanks for stoppin in bruva.

    Yup. I agree.

    I actually put 5ml of Micro and 10ml of Bloom in and the PPM is up to 260. I think I might add a little Cal-Mag (maybe 5ml total) in a bit.

    My res is about 15 gallons, btw.

    Thanks for lookin, Jim. Take'r easy. :smoking:


    So, they seem to be doing great. They both have a couple little roots in the water and are takin off.

    Pics:

    No.1 (front right)

    no2.JPG


    No. 2 (back left)

    no1.JPG

    I literally just stopped fucking with them and didn't even open the grow box for 2 days. Opened it today and was glad to see the new green growth, the roots in the water, and my girls lookin good in general.

    Stats:

    Temp under the light: between 81 and 85F
    Water temp: 74F (damn it)
    PPM: 260
    PH (approximate lol): 5.2
    Ambient temp in box: 80F
    RH: 22%

    I'm hoping it either gets hot quick or stays cold around here. My method of keeping my temperatures down has to do with the temperature outside, so when it's kind of in-between like it was today it's hard to regulate it.





    As far as the other grow goes my homie said the 3 are doing great except for the one that I said had "crispy" leaves on the bottom. He hasn't had a PH meter but this cheap one I bought is for him to take to the crib so he should be getting that where it needs to be in the near future.

    I was just assuming crispy leaves was a sign of a high PH...

    That sound right? lol

    Anyhow, thanks for lookin everyone.

    Peace. :smoking:
     
  13. any ppm works. Did you top the res with water to adjust ph back up a bit?
     
  14. whatup man!
    u gotta go build that cab right now!
    your babys gonna need it pretty soon!

    if i miss an update just holla and ill be there to help ya.

    BTW they do look great!

    peace!
     
  15. Sure did, Hype.

    I'm going to slap it together this weekend, Screw.


    Well, believe it or not I've got some problems...

    I had to go out of town for a few days, and I came home to brown spotting on the leaves, those same leaves turning crispy, and browning roots.

    Not sure what the problem isi.

    PH: 5.65 (as far as I can tell, I have a cheapo meter on the way just in case)
    PPM: 450
    Ambient temp: 83F
    RH: 22
    Water temp: 75F


    Water looks clear. No smells. Rockwool is pretty wet but not falling apart.

    Possible suspects:

    -Looks like the lids on the netpots let some light through and the cups are so small that the hydroton can't block it all... I'm going to figure out something to keep the light out

    -Water temperature. Despite keeping the ambient temperature at around 75 in the room and 83 under the lights, the water temperature has been hovering around 74-75F for the duration of the grow. I have no idea what to do about this at this time.

    -The water pump has been pumping water to the cubes nonstop. Perhaps oversaturation of the cubes? I mean, the roots can't get too much water can they? (as long as there is enough oxygen in it)


    Not sure what else could be causing the problem. I will consult the sick plants threads in a bit, but I wanted to go ahead and post this in the hope that someone would have some ideas.


    I'm not sure what's wrong, but when roots start turning brown I start to worry.

    I'm considering putting the UV sterilizer back in there.

    I'm also considering just throwing these out and starting over.

    PICS:

    First plant:

    100_5992 (Large).jpg

    Close up of really bad leaf (it's starting to happen to the newer leaves as well):

    qwe.JPG

    Close up of 2nd plant's leaves:

    wer.JPG

    Roots of 1st:

    100_6001 (Large).jpg

    Roots of 2nd:

    100_6003 (Large).jpg

    Close-up of roots:

    safddasf.JPG

    Plants now with lids off:

    100_6005 (Large).jpg

    100_6006 (Large).jpg

    Trying to take pics of light coming through cup:

    100_6004 (Large).jpg



    Looking at the roots, you can see that the main roots have turned brown but the newer younger roots are unaffected.

    Anyhow, any help/advice/suggestions are appreciated.

    All I know to do is to get the light out of the cups and find my timer so I can put the water pump on a 15 minutes on, 1 hr 45 min off, cycle.
     
  16. #36 smoove, Mar 4, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 4, 2009
    yo Darth

    So... I've got 3 plants in a DWC tub right now that are about 8 inches tall with like 6-7 nodes... I use a very similar "modified" Lucas Formula like HerbalRemadies... I have my ppms running under 200ppms right now and they are healthy, lush and vigorously growing. In fact, they were in a 50 ppm nutrient solution until they were about 5 inches tall. I think screwdababylon! might be a bit over zealous with his feeding regiment. :p 600-700ppms at this point just seems way too high. In fact it looks to me like you might be running hot as it is.

    When in doubt... underfeed! especially when they're babies... Once they're established you can more easily push them too their limit... just my 2cents.

    Good Luck
     
  17. I have a suggestion Darth...

    I think you might be better off ditching the pump. It really doesn't serve any purpose other than acting as a heater... pumps run very warm. Bubbles and water surface movement is all you need. Of course this is just a suggesting and I'm knocking what you have going here as I know you put some thought and a lot of effort into rigging it up.
     
  18. I agree with the underfeeding. I haven't added the water back since they've been eating, and I'm sure the PPM will drop accordingly here in a minute when I do.

    Seriously considering it. The pump is really only to speed up the time it takes to get the roots in the water. I had never really considered what possible heat the pump could be putting out in the res. However, if I was to completely take it out then I would have to start hand watering or the cubes would dry out and the roots that haven't made it to the water would more than likely end up crusty and dead...I think.

    So I'm going to rip my place apart until I find my timer and put that pump on a 15 minute on, 1 hr 45 minute off cycle. I chose this cycle because that's what I put my friend's on (other grow in this thread) and he's having no problems at all...other than a slight crispiness to his bottom leaves.

    What the hell causes leaf crispiness?!?!

    Anyhow, having it on only that much would probably still lower the res temps while not causing me to have to hand water or anything of the sort.

    What ya think?


    And thanks for the advice and for stoppin in, mang. :smoking: +repz
     
  19. hey darth does the top of the rockwool have any kind of build on it there might be a mold of somekind because of the rockwool cube. i kept mine very moist for about a week and then 3 plants got killed of by a mold growing on the rockwool and the only thing i could think of was that i kept them wet the whole time instead of wet,dry,wet,dry etc. but the way mine went out were they acted like overwatered soil plants then just died. i dunno man thats some wierd shit hopefully someone chimes in with the answer. but i would check the tops of the cubes if you havent already. GL man peace
     
  20. Sup Zab-man!

    Yeah, I checked the cubes and they just look a bit overly moist. In previous grows, I've had that thin white layer of...whatever (mold?) cover the top of my cubes before but that's not happening here. I honestly think too much water is going to the cubes for it to have anything like that on it.

    What I don't understand is why, whenever I have a problem, it never looks like ANY pics I see in the "sick plants" threads that have all of the example pics and what not. I know the roots look like they're starting up with some root rot, but the leaves? No idea.

    My friend's plants have a bit of the crispy, spotty leaves going on but nothing like this. I attributed his issues to PH problems, because his PH got up to almost 8 before I was able to get him a working meter. I've just been waiting to see if his gets better since he's kept the PH in check. I'm not sure how his and my leaf problems could be related, as his roots are fine, he's got different strains, a different light, a different spot, etc etc. The only thing his and mine have in common are the rockwool and the hydroton...

    No fuckin clue, honestly (other than what I've already mentioned).

    Of course, I know that light in the reservoir and high temperatures = root rot, so I have to get that shit in check pronto.

    I found my timer, so I'm going to put my water pump on the previously mentioned cycle. I think I'm going to cut up an old briefcase/bag thing I have, put aluminum tape on them, and use them as new lid covers to keep the light out.

    I'm going to put some SM90 in the reservoir for the roots. I'm going to figure out the hose problem with my UV sterilizer and keep it on standby...

    I'm going to try to keep the PPM around 300 for awhile as well.

    As to the water temperature, I'm just going to freeze out the room theyr'e in. I have no other options...

    What ya guys think? Anyone think that the roots are bad enough at this age to where I should just scrap them and start over? (I mean, they're not that big and I have more seeds...)

    Thanks again, peoples. :smoking:
     

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