Discussion in 'Coco Coir' started by euphoria526, May 10, 2020.

  1. Or some may just say plain retarded lol
    I started 3 more beans. 2 Wilson and 1 wilato after suffocating the last ones from what I found out was from my mistake of not paying attention to the actual coco when I was straining it out and ended up with a ton of the peat moss at the bottom. The hard to drain shit, that made it look like hard compressed soil and suffocate the seedlings. So I hydrated the other half of it and got the right part of the coco, should have enough for at least 2- 2 gallon cloth pots. Otherwise I got a bag of Royal Gold Tupur. Which I plan to use next run, I’ve heard it’s amazing to grow in.
    Here are the 3 seedlings. For all 3 the first 24hrs I did just Og’s water only, they are all now getting weak 400ppm nutrient solution. About a shot glass full per cup by tomorrow. I plan on raising up the ppms by a couple hundred by Monday and a full 1k by two weeks.
    They all look ok so far. Unless someone sees something I don’t lol
    IMG_7836.JPG IMG_7834.JPG IMG_7832.JPG
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  2. Those ppm numbers are high. I start at 180 - 200ppm and have never found the need to go much higher than 650ppm for full grown plants.
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  3. They are leggy as fuck too.......might wanna consider lowering your light
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  4. I’m not too worried about it at the moment. They seem to be liking it so far. Plus my initial taps ppm is around 200.

    Also not too worried about the stretching, when I transplant I plan on potting them up towards or at the cotyledons.
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  5. Lol, sounds like you aren't too worried about you are all set. Good luck to ya.:passing-joint:
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  6. Just so you can see how much your already over feeding mate. These plants have been fed nothing other than 48ppm water and hydroguard bennies. Zero nutes. Day 5-7 there as diff strains and some took longer to pop.
    Look at the one top right, see the 2 wee leaves at the bottom of it that are fading.
    Thats the plant finally used up its own stores and is now able to feed.
    Untill that point they need and want absolutely hee haw. 20200412_180740.jpg
    Less is best mate. If you do things the way you plan to its gonna go wrong extremely quickly.
    Takes a massive plant to be able to absorb 1000ppm. Most coco growers dont go over 500-700 for fully grown plants.
  7. It’s hard to do any of that when my tap comes out at 220 Ppm’s lol
    From what I’ve read and learned. Jacks is designed to be used at higher ppm’s quicker than most ferts, not to mention this is less than 1/4 dose. since most people I’ve talked to on here admittedly know nothing about jacks, I honestly implore people here to check out the science behind it.
    Spanish@rcher- you’ve always been cool about everything and I have listened to you and S2C about it all so far. So far I’ve been following his suggestion of starting nutes a little early and using syringes to feed around the edge of cups to promote rooting.
    What I could do is switch feed and water, since I’m giving it about 40ml+\- a day of feeding.
  8. IMG_7855.JPG
    Here they are from this morning.
    I know they are stretching, I plan on planting of to the C’s when I transplant.

  9. Here is greenegene himself explaining the science behind the jacks hydro 3-2-1 and feeding in early stages.
    It’s a stupid long video for those who have the time. For those who don’t he explained quite a bit within the first 12 minutes or so.
  10. Id buy different coco if you found the peat to be an issue.
  11. Thanks for the pm mate but to be honest, your one part nutes cause certain oddities that im not familiar with.

    If s2c has been giving you advice on the subject then i would listen to him and only him.
    He knows his shit mate but he does things differently from what i do.

    Its his model youre following and its a little off from the norm so just stick to what he does.

    Theres many ways to skin a monkey mate.
    We all do it differently but we can still all do it the "right way."

    S2C's way is slightly strange to me but follow it and you wont go wrong.
    Just dont stray from what he does.
    You gotta pick one way and make it work bud. Cant chop and change or youll just confuse yourself.
  12. Just cos someone has a few views mate, dont asume their opinion is the correct one.
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  13. That’s true. What works in one garden won’t necessarily work in all of them. You are very right about the views thing too, it’s very true, I’m just watching someone who gets great success with what I’m using, thinking I can replicate it. He just breaks down the science of jacks N-P-K in a way I can somewhat understand and compares to other popular formulas that I’ve read about here, including Lucas’ formula, Canna coco line, and the Gh3 among others, aside from just me talking about it, I thought other people might want to see it also.
    I washed it differently and came out with a better consistency for an end product
    Also got a bag of Tupur for backup.
  14. I also want to mention that I’m limited on lowering my lights based on the power cable. Going to fill up the cloth pots to raise the cups
  15. See the thing you need to know about feeding aswell mate. Is that you cant force feed a plant. Its literally impossible.
    If you feed more than what the plant can take then nitrogen wins every time.
    Its stronger than the other things in the mix and once the mix gets too strong the N takes over and blocks the availability of pretty much everything else and completely stops the plant growing.
    They turn dark, the leaves claw down at the end, then they just stop. Dead in the water.

    The only way to possibly understand how much a plant can actually feed is to grow in a reservoir. When you do that, the plant effects the levels in the res so you can see it clear as day on the meters.
    You can see exactly how much nutes the plant takes in and its really not much.
    Roughly 100ppm per week of veg, give or take.

    Also feeding water-nutes-water-nutes like soil growers do is a bad idea. Shouldnt give coco just water once the plants feeding. It fucks the balance of the pot and screws with the ph. If you feel the need to do it then it quite simply means your feed is too strong.

    An underfed plant just goes a little yellow. You see it, common sense kicks in and you up the dose.
    With an over fed plant its fucked and the damage is done before the symptoms appear.
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  16. I get that you can’t force feed a plant. Can’t really force feed anything with good results lol
    In my thinking, since my tap is already 200 +\-ppm’s, I’ve only added 200ppm of actual ferts to the mix making up that 400ppm.
    That’s where my thinking is.

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