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recipe for popular nutrients

Discussion in 'Advanced Growing Techniques' started by organicfreak, Jun 24, 2011.

  1. diy carboload recipe (powder version)

    table sugar (simple sugar) substitue with ANY SIMPLE SUGAR
    carbo gain (complex sugar) substitue with ANY COMPLEX SUGAR

    I like to use this in veg and flower molasses is dirty and whenn shacken or bubbled it become agitated and is VERY MESSY imho...

    I mix all 3 in equal part in 1 container AND shake it up good


    I had to my feed @
    veg = 10ml/gal
    flower = 15ml/gal
  2. kelp 4 less sell's bulk

    1.myco's: endo, ecto, & bacteria,trichdermia

    2.kelp: has all b vitamins

    3.humic acid: aids in plat growth

    4.fulvic acid: chealator gives the plant the ability to absorb food in a wider phh range(Advance nutrients SECRET to ph perfect)

    5.amino acid: aids in plat growth

    I like to mix them @ kelp 20%,humic20% fulvic 20% amino 10% myco's 10-20%

    using this gives you imho

    1. ph perfect or a lower /higher ph range that the plant will absorb the food @ (prevents lockout do to high/low ph WITHIN REASON...)
    2. kelp is like CRACK for plants lol seriously the shoots stand straight up,
    Also has all the b vitamins INCLUDING B1
    as alot of the micro nutrients we use GREAT FOR small defficency's
    many more
    3. compares to, Myco madness,roots xl,tarantuall -pirahana-,rhizotonic, ETC..
    NOW some made differently,butt same shit in them forinstance :Rhizotonic is made from chix manure,where myco madness is the exact same powder form I list above SAME RESULTS THOUGH.... to TRICK OUT THE ROOT ZONE/rhizophere....
    4. Saves you $1000's... buy them in bulk and mix yourself....

  3. ALL IMHO...
    only a FOOL BELIEVES that the nutrient companies have MAGICAL KELP / RARE EARTH in these products...

    it's all COUPLE OF CENT'S of npk, ca,mg,iron,copper etc. then water...
    That you could mmake yourself just like your local greenhouse,or farmer does and

    Its all hype, you know TO GET YOUR MONEY...

    Names = bud candy big bud bud blood etc..

    The crazy advertizement and claims:
    You see these in mags(made/paid 4 by the nute companys) and people they pay.
    Hype them in these threads and other threads.... AND THEY MIGHT BE POPULAR AS ALL HELL..

    One of those threads worship a system... MAYBE YOUVE HEARD OF IT??? mpb... haha does it work YES,but how ? lol think about it what's the most expensive system to run?

    light wise = balast reflectors bulbs
    nutrients: = huge resiviors twice a week nute dumps & if you
    claims of 4lb a plant and now its up tp 10lb per plant

    What they dont tell you is
    he use PGR'S TO GET THAT SIZE of bud's.
    lol you know when you get that small bag of dank with solid rock hard buds???
    pgr's look @ his pick's ALL bud's SIZE OF A BASKET BALL...

  4. Silica blast diy

    you can buy
    potasium silicate and add it to your feed @ 30ppms EXACT RECIPE to silica blast..

    But I buy silica dioxide fro kelp for less..
    It doest mess with your ppm's/ph

    potassium silicat has POTASSIUM so it rise ph and give's you ppm

    imho I have enough POTASSIUM in my diy canna coco A/b and boast with y Diy m.o.a.b and HammerHead to worry about using potasium silicate..

    So i buy this @ kelp4less as well mixing instruction's come with...

  5. Fatmans calmag+

    Fat man if you don't know is the godfather of diy nute and letting us know the truth and is banned lol go figure ON EVERY cannabis forums...

    now he uses epsom salt i substitute with magnesium nitrate
    also a little hotter then calmag+ imho..

    so i like to start with 000 +/- ppm r.o water and bring my ppms up to 165-200 rember most have some ca/mg so you have to decide how much they need
    ALSO MOST PEOPLE wine off mag/ca issue and blame it on not enough/or tmv virus lol..

    lol most is caused from
    1. over doing it
    2. ph to high or low
    3. root aphids (use merit its systematic so stay out of flower room SAME IGREIDENTS IN BAYER ADVANCE but alot stronger/effective 1 does usually does it)


    fatmans Cal-Mag

    Nitrogen 200
    Magnesium 120
    Calcium 259
    Sulfur 160
    Iron 10.00

    Grams (ounces)

    Calcium Nitrate 488.9
    Magnesium Sulfate 464.0 (16.37)
    Iron Chelate 38.57 (1.36)

    Volume of Stock Solutions 1 gallon

    Dilution Rate 100 to 1

  6. Diy coco
    If YOU BUY EXPENSIVE CANNA wich works out to be 1 bag per 10 galons @ 30$.

    So I buy bales. Cheaps 1's ok, but for 1$2-15 you can get the boss bales so get these 1's (up2u)

    And I like to do this in a 20 gallon smart pot becuse a bale = 20 gal +/-

    Anywho to have great succes with no ph flux/defficency's 1st time of use.
    you must:

    1. soak bale untill it can be broken up.
    I like to use a 45 gal rubbermade garbage can dump 1-3 bales in and put a 10 gal bucket ontop fill both bucket close to full.. Bottom bucket soaks coco and top hold bales under water..

    2. break up coco when soft.
    Fill 1 bale per 20 gal smart pot(or knock off's ALL THE SAME)
    Take a hose with city /reg water and flush take 15-30 mins per pot and you can stop when water is clear or ppms = what your hose water is

    3. fill up garbage can about half way withREVERSE OSMOSIS WATER..
    ADD the diy coco buffer untill ppms are 750 ph to 5.5-5.8.. 5.8 optimum but imho if you go lower she will rise anyways and if you have her @ 5.8 and she rises you can be fucked... start lower and feed with 5.8 ALL WILL BE GOOD..

    4. SOAK YOUR FLUSHED COCO in the ph adjusted buffer for 1-24 hrs I prefere 24!

    5. Now same as 2 bags of canna but cost you $20-30 instead of 60$

  7. I love haffia nutrients
    Why cause there water soluable and most are green house grade

    This means they dissolve VERY EASY...
    You can only get in usa these 5 which are the big boy's anyway's

    1. calcium nitrate I personally cat find ,so I use calnit
    2.magnesium nitrate: flora hydroponic
    3. map: hydrogardens
    4.mkp: flora hydroponic
    5. potasium nitrate: flora hydroponic

    you can find other places as well this will just help you if you cant find them and they ship worldwide...

    hydrogardens has rest of micro's, just they have 0000 comensense to stealth shiping .lol Bright orange tape with hydrogarden is what they use to seal the box,and then mail you a giagantic catolague . lol and I'm a medical farmer wtf if your not...
    So maybe try find elswhere...imho

  8. diy ph down

    4 gallon water i like to buy from store cause it comes with a gallon jug you can throw away when empy

    1 quart sulfuric acid (auto part store)

    latex gloves

    1 funnel (throw away when done) $store

    1 8oz messuring cup (throw away when done) $store

    take all 4 gallon and remove 9oz of water from each
    now add 8oz of sulfuric acid into each

    fyi1 oz is extra for room to shake it up..

    now you have 4 gallons of ph down and cost you under 15$ hydro store charges you 15$ for 1 qrt

    and this stuff is SO SAFE i pour it into cap then into my feed & some will get on my hand000000000 damage...

    also most farmer use sulher as a soil amendment... guess what it takes weeks to work and guees what else? lol the bacteria is breaking down the sulpher and changes it to SULFUIC ACID.. my way cuts to the chase and give YOU IMMEDIATE ph down effects...

  9. Enzymes..

    most hydro store enzymes once you gett them are basically dead or seriously degrated..
    hygrozymes one of the better shelf life one's

    However there is a cheaper better way to add enzymes..

    On another site i visit a guy recomende CAREFREE ENZYMES POND VERSION..
    I called owner and he explained that all his enzymes were the same just different concentrations..
    I was going to try his new hydrosystem version but when i worked out the cost they were about the same to hydro store version, cannazymes,hygrozmes,sensizymes etc..

    So he recomended the lake enzyes(made to clean alge out of lake) again same enzymes different strenght..

    Here's the magic lol
    you use his product @ .5ml/gal hydro-store's version 10ml/gal lol that 20x more...
    So you can buy carefree enzymes for 140ish and a galon of the hydro-store for 140ish
    SO ITS A WASH IN COST, but you get 20x more useage from the carefree enzymes..

    simlply put if you use a gallon a month of enzyme from your hydro -store then you can spend THE EXACT SAME and get carefree enzymes lake version to last you 20 months..
    Thats almost 1month comared to 2 yrs...

    And i use smart pot's cannazyme would keep roots white but not the pot's.. They would be green/white with alge..

    now I have white roots & black smart pots(black = original color)


    I obviously have had a few days to think about the pgr's and this is what I'll be trying...

    Triacontanol is naturally found in alfalfa's ...

    Read somewere a farmer recomended to a pot farmer to grow alfalfa 1st (probably yr before,or maybe early spring goggle it).
    Then when it comes down or harvested he said to plow it into your soil..
    So I believe this is a trick of the trade used to grow our fruits/vegetable's,and organic growers add it to there tea's..

    So IMHO triacontanol is safe....

    Triacontanol can be bought thru web in powder form.
    I feel it should be mixed as followed...

    Does snow storm work for you? It sure as hell work's for me ,so lets not change something that works lets just copy everything and get the resin increase which helps smell taste,high..
    WHAT WERE ALL IN IT 4 lol...

    We know 4 sure there's no fulvic humic kelp reason: look inside your bottle clear as shit...
    So I think for snowstorm they literally use water and triacontanol...

    So when everybody keep's asking whats the recipe lets try.

    1.1gal r.o water lowest ppm as possible. Know what this # is prior to mixing. make sure its exactly 1gallon measure it..

    2.ppm meter.

    3.real snow storm BRAND NEW UNOPEN...
    Now learn from it...

    imho my ladies do well being feed twice a week with 2ml/gal of snowstorm, so mix EXACTLY 2ml/1gal of r.o water DEDUCT your starting ppm's and now you know there ppm's per feed..(if your ladies like more less adjust ml to meet your ml/gal).
    now take another Gal of r.o water and trickle in little powder of Triacontanol SLOWLY and maybe an air stone or a friend stirring as u pour...

    Important thing is to have real small amount's like 1/8 teaspoons so you can measure EXACTLY HOW MUCH YOU PUT in the gallon/tsp, So you get the desired ppm's that YOU ALREADY DID in the 1st experiment..

    You now have a working product for few dollars a gallon.

    Now I use snow storm all thru flowering except last wk of flush.
    wk 1-6 2ml/gal
    wk 7 4ml/gal
    wk 8 flush clearex/water (homemade)

    So I WILL FOLLOW same path with my (homemade snowstorm).
    Only difference is my snowstorm will eventually have little mold in it towards end of use...
    IMHO it doest have sodium benzote(food preservative) like many nute's have...

    So instead of adding my powder Triacontanol to the water and storing a gallon.
    I'll divide the tsp. needed by 4 and make a qrt..
    And if it still molds I'll add some sodium benzote @ 1/4gram/quart..

    Now if you want to foliar your triacontanol..
    1.look thru forums/web for people using it as a foliar and there u go. mimic there dosage ,but make your own
    2. make your own and try different time/amounts until your happy "EXPERIMENT"..

    I think this is the BEST WAY TO use triacontanol is the way I've laid it out because:
    1.Now we know what triacontanol we've been using is actually snow storm
    2.NOW WE HAVE REAL TRIALS, EXPERIENCE,testimonies,avenues to research WITH triacontanol AND cannabis.. Because snowstorm has been used for yrs. NO ONE KNEW WHAT IT IS.. So no we do i feel this is a positive..


  11. Gravity,bushmaster,flowerdragon,superbud,phosoload etc. RECIPE

    Chlormequat-Chloride,Paclobutrazol obviously are the key ingredients in these type product's
    superbud,phosoload,cyco-flower a-b-c,gravity,bushmaster,flower dragon(I believe but don't have proof budblood, bigbud,overdrive,moab,Any big flower enhancer)

    What does Chlormequat Chloride,Paclobutrazol when are they used and why?
    They are used cause we want BIG YIELDS/BIG BUDS PERIOD.....
    They are used to
    1. To control height/stop stretch.. used week 1-4 user decided when you want height stop and flower to begin
    2. To boost or explode your buds/calyx's weeks 2-4 lol basket ball donkey dick u can get big bud without pgr,but I'm talking BIG BUDS
    3. Harden the buds.wk 5-7 imho works best right be4 final wk of flush

    PER MANY POST /THREADS: Seems alot more people complain about the Paclobutrazol killing resin production, so I've found a site NO LONGER AROUND.. Integral hydroponic. glow author gave this 2 part recipe.
    Part A. Paclobutrazol
    Part B. Chlormequat Chloride

    He recommends just cutting out the
    Part A. Paclobutrazol
    and just double the feed for part
    Part B. Chlormequat Chloride

    Recipe for Part B

    The cycocell is store bought,but with this recipe you dilute the fuck out of it and add homemade fulvic 8% SO BASICALLY IS HOMEMADE AND WAY CHEAPER THEN
    ANYTHING YOU'LL find @ a hydro store..

    Here's recipe..
    Part B ‘Cycocel 750a (Chlormequat Chloride) @ 582g/L’ to make 3L Concentrate

    1.Add 396ml Cycocel to 2.5L demineralised water
    2.Add 30ml 8% fulvic acid
    3.Top up to 3L final working solution

    Use at 3ml/L or 6ml/l if cutting out Part A. Paclobutrazol

    you run with your feed water for 3-5 days...

    Now I DON'T HAVE A CEILING/HEIGHT RESTRICTION either,so I too was like I don't need this.. BUT several sources state that you can have flowers in wk3 that most have in wk 5..

    Think about how much more boost/bloom you will have if your flowers are bigger to start with...

    So I plan on using just
    Part B. Chlormequat Chloride twice thru flowering a 8-9wk strain

    day 8-10 to stop stretch and set off pre-flowering

    day 35-37 to swell the flowers

    day 49-51 IF NEEDED IMHO 2 TIMES WILL BE ENOUGH TO stop strecth,burst flowers,and harden Experimenting needed..

    Also cycocel cost 400 per gallon
    So there's a knock off I found EXACTLY SAME SPECS/msds sheet


  12. Gravity,bushmaster,flowerdragon,superbud,phosoload etc.. DIRECTION'S OF USE

    Lol these are the best direction ever they just don't disclose what's in it.. haha but we know..

    The close the deal method
    for experience growers who are looking for that little somthing to give them that amazing finish to their crop and bring them from good to great..
    How it works: During ast w eeks of flower add flower Dragon at a rate of 6ml/gal to your nutrient water

    Spend longer in veg than most for a bigger, better sructure plant (4 week minimum)
    Need 2 pick up some time and some size try this power flower method!
    how it works
    add flower dragon to system after you have introduced your plants to flower @ a rate of 6ml/gal of nutrients/water for the 1st 2 weeks

    Double hitter Size counts but quality matters to a combination of the 2 can be even more satisfying. Use this combo routine for maximum size and quality!
    How it works: add flower dragon to system at wk 4 for 1 wk return to your reg feeding
    And then reapply for 1 wk when your 2 weeks out fromharvest

  13. I'm not going to lie, I haven't read all of your threads, but it seems(if the info is relevant, which it seems to be) that these would be a great thing for the DIY forum, as well as possibly conglomerating all three threads into one. I'll get through reading these soon.
  14. B'Cuzz 13/14
    MKP 47.6g
    K2SO4 19g

    1L stock solution. 0.5 EC @ 10 ml/L
    equivalent to 1L B'cuzz 13/14 = $2.80
  15. m.o.a.b
    MKP 457g
    MAP 43g
    b1 .5g

    mix dry in 1 container..
    I like 1 ml a gallon 1st week of flower, and 5,6 flower

    Hi friend
    This is my methode WORKS GREAT & IT ORGANIC and this is what I'm using instead of clonex solution (not the gel for dipping clones)

    2 oz. of organic aloe vera juice (aka gel or extract - talk about disorganized!)
    1/2 oz. of fulvic acid
    3/4 tsp. of powdered seaweed extract

    These are the amounts for 1 gallon of water.

    This is from a guy who is an orgaic geniuss imho
    and this a copy of what I asked him about this recipe and then his response

    Originally Posted by organicfreak
    hi friend
    yea I use root riot cubes
    i dip clone in clonex rooting gel and keep under a dome and on top of a heating pad 80 degrees roughly..
    HAVE EXCELLENT RESULTS THOUGH... 80 - 90% succes rate in 10 -14 days...

    My concern is how expensive the clonex solution that you feed with is..(not the dip)
    I'm a diy nute guy and make everything myself,or buy in bulk and mix my own like kelp and fulvic and myco's...

    clonex usage is like 40ml gal olivas 60ml gal WAY TO EXPENSIVE. for base nutes Imho

    I usually feed every 48 hrs by dipping root cubes in clonex solution 300ppms 1/4 tsp b1(I bought powder form of thyamin fucking pills are a bitch to crush) and a 1/2tsp of my mix which is humic,fulvic,aminos acids,kelp and endo, excto, bacteria, tricherma

    was thinking of using ur mix plus b1 every 48 hrs for a dip then I pull them out,so there not sitting in it SEEMS TO WORK NICELY..

    Whats your opion friend?



    The aloe vera, silica, fulvic acid (or humic acid), seaweed/kelp, etc. can (and probably should) replace the Clonex Clone Solution.

    Here's what the Clonex product contains according to the label:

    Total Nigrogen (N) - 1%
    0.05% - Ammoniacal Nitrogen
    0.95% Nitrate Nitrogen
    1% Soluble Potash (K2O)

    Derived from calcium nitrate, potassium nitrate, phosphoric acid, potassium sulfate and ammonium nitrate.

    Pretty cheap and mediocre ingredients, IMHO. It should cost about $5.00 per quart/liter. If that.

    Here's what you're getting in the mix that Stankie referenced which costs very little and has far more uses than simply moving the rooted cutting to full root development.

    Aloe Vera - Salicylic acid (this is the same compound found in Willow shoots which has been used as a rooting compound for at least 100 years), 73 elements including Phosphorus, Potassium, Nitrogen, etc.

    Seaweed/Kelp - Besides the full and total macro and micro nutrient profile in seaweed/kelp you also have Indolyl-Acetic Acid (IAA) which is found in many/most rooting products. You also have the full Vitamin B complex in kelp as well as Vitamin C, Vitamin E, auxins (plant hormontes) and all of the other things that you're aware of which is why you're using this amendment in the first place.

    Silica - prevents anaerobic fungi from causing problems at all stages of a plant's development.

    Fulvic/Humic Acid - 'nuff said.

    So here's how I use the root cubes like you're using (BTW - all of these type of products come from a single factory in Springfield, Oregon. They're made from by-products from the timber/wood industry so buy price).

    Take your cuttings and place them in this solution and they can sit for as long as you need.

    Since you've been using the root cubes you know what the hydration level should be. Take the cubes and soak them in the mixture for 15 minutes or so. Then squeeze out enough of the solution to return to your preferred hydration level.

    Take some of the Clonex Rooting Gel (about 1 tsp. or so) and add 1/8th tsp. of endomycorrhizal powder. Mix well.

    This will inoculate the roots as soon as they start to develop. It will not make the cuttings root faster. It will not increase root mass. It will not save 3rd World Countries. What it will do is take care of the inoculation process as early as possible and also saves you big money vs. using processes which use far more powder with little to show for it.

    Do your process with one exception. Take the solution and put it into a condiment bottle (like the plastic ketchup or mustard ones) and use that to water the cubes as needed. Between the rooting compounds in the aloe vera and seaweed you have the full range of rooting compounds used in horticulture, i.e. IAA, IBA, NAA and Salicylic acid.

    This mix is also good for general plant maintenance during veg and flower. I apply it 1x per week to the soil and 1x as a foliar spray.

    One thing you should consider about this mix - after mixing you must refrigerate it because of the Benzoic acid it contains from the aloe vera. It will ferment (easily) which can cause problems for you.


  17. Advanced Nutrients....Grandma Enggys H2

    Humic Acid (derived from Leonardite) 2.62%
    inert ingredients 97.38%

    4L size from advanced nutrients online = 97.42

    4L size from homemade = less than two dollars (excluding water)

    DIY replacement recipe

    Humic Acid 80% (leonardite) 125.76 grams
    1.2 grams sodium benzoate (as a preservative)
    top up with RO water to 4L mark

    2.5 - 5.0 ml per liter in Hydroponics
    5.0 ml per liter in soil

    to be use in both veg and bloom cycle
  18. Overdrive 1liter

    MgSO4 107g
    KH2PO4 109g
    KNO3 17g
    CaNO3 62g
  19. Here is Grandma Enggy's F1

    Advance has listed it as .39% fulvic acid and 99.61% inert ingredients.
    Man this has got to be the biggest robbery going at $97.42/4L on their website.

    Homemade version should cost roughly 6 dollars per 4L


    19.5 grams of the 75% fulvic acid
    3 grams of sodium benzoate as a preservative
    top up with distilled or RO water to the 4L mark

    addition to nutrient tanks
    2.5ml per litre

    foliar spray
    5ml per litre of water, spray 3-4 times a week during veg and flower until the last 7 - 10 days of flowering

    odd that foliar is higher than nutrient addition, usually it is the other way around but that is what their website says
  20. Lots of good info here man, thanks for posting.

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