Re: Sick Plants? Have A Question? Ask Here.

Discussion in 'Sick Plants and Problems' started by Knowmadic, Aug 2, 2015.

  1. This is my first grow and I have a few questions regarding my plants. They are Northern Light AF coming up on week two of growing in their 5gal bucket of FFOF mixed with perlite. They are each receiving 126w of 6500K light for 20/4. So far I have been watering lightly on the 3-4 day. Bulbs are about 6-8" from the plant. No fertilizer has been used yet.


    Plant 1 -
    [​IMG]


    Stunted growth in comparison to the others. Bleached white spot / streaks. Stem is slightly red. Cotyledons drooping, true leaves pointing up.


    Plant 2 -
    [​IMG]


    Growing very well just slight concerns with the leaf tips curling upwards and tiny spots.


    Plant 3 -
    [​IMG]


    Also growing well, similar concerns to plant 2, but the leaves are sort of twisting in the middles. *plant does not actually look lime green*


    Plant 4 -
    [​IMG]


    Stunted growth, similar concerns to plant 1, but tips of true leaves are slightly yellow and pointed up. Cotyledons are drooping and one leaf has a yellow/brown patch.


    Bugs -
    [​IMG]
    Tiny gnat looking bugs that seem to fly. Not many of them, but I've seen 1-2 sitting under the leaves. Any ideas for what these are and solutions for getting rid of them?

     
  2. Buy food grade diatomaceous Earth and dust it around, not too much on the leaves and it works best dry. Gets rid of most gnats and is completely safe (I drink it as a health supplement). Watering every 3 days would surely get gnats this early . Instead stick your finger in an inch and a half and see if it's dry, otherwise don't water.
    DT earth is about 10$ a pound or 17$ for 10lb.

    Usually those large brown spots so early are caused by getting the plants wet under the hot light in my experience
     
  3. Foxfarm burns again...
     
  4. I'm pretty sure I remember seeing the gnats from the beginning when I first put the soil in the buckets, but oh well. I've started using the diatomaceous Earth and am waiting to see results from that. I haven't been just watering to water, thats when the soil has been dry / crusty. Thanks for the info on the brown spots, I think I do recall getting some water on the seedlings. Any other advice on why their growth would be so stunted and the yellowing of the leaves?
     
  5. Also, do you ph balance the water? Many people don't have a problem with their tap water. I do. My ph is 9.6 and that stunts growth on all my indoor plants. I always knew it was high but I just tested it with my first grow here and boy did I have a LOT of random problems. Each plant looked like it had a seemingly different deficiency for each set of leaves. Every week new spots showed up and fixed themselves eventually until I pH'd it and now I'm growing steady
     
  6. Anything I can do to remedy, or do I just let the plants power through?
     
  7. The gnats may not be your fault. They pop out a lot in fresh dirt and I wouldn't worry about it unless you've been treating for them for a week and you still have a swarm. I still notice 1 or 2 in my tent sometimes but my house is from 1896. I'm gonna have bugs no matter what.
     
  8. For the first week or so I just used a purified water bottle so that might be it, once that ran out I started using my actual watering system (pump wasn't in yet), and that water has a pH of 6.9 . The series of random problems looking like different deficiencies is exactly what I feel like I'm going through..
     
  9. You can flush the soil with water, but don't do it unless you really need to. Just don't use nutes until you're a few weeks in, they should make it as long as nothing else is hurting them
     
  10. I haven't used ANY nutes yet. I'll probably post some update pics later today to show where things are at.
     
  11. Fellas, so after like 6 months of no grow time, I ventured my way back to growing and planted ten bag seeds, got lazy and didn't ph my first watering and I feel I screwed my plants for life, I believe I locked out my iron causing major yellowing all over. Honestly idk what I did differently from my last grows, same batch of SSM#4 soil, distilled water, same Dutchmaster nutes. In the meantime while I got around too ordering more seeds I wanted to get rid of all my bagseed first too make sure I still knew what I was doing, and I'm glad I did cause I'd be pissed if I killed another 15$ seed. Anyways I haven't flushed them at all and they just entered flowering so I'll do one in a week or so. My last grow were seeds bought from Bonza seedbank so maybe genetics are why my plants aren't as bushy and beautiful along with my lazy ass screwing the ladies. But I can't seems to chase down the root problem (don't mind the pun). Since in using Sunshine Mix Advanced 4 which is technically soilless mix I run my water in at 5.8 and my runoff is a little high at 6.8 and it's a decent orange red color. Recently switched to RO drinking water from Walmart with 3-5 ml of cal/mg added per gallon. I'm at a loss fellas, seems like basic shit but I can't trace it down. Any help is much appreciated. Hiphopaddix out. <SKI.THE.EAST.>
     

    Attached Files:

  12. Hey, This is my first time ever growing so I apologize in advance if you see these questions everyday.
    My plant is a clone, it's well rooted and I've had it for about 10 days now. Just transplanted it last night from a solo cup in miracle grow to a 2.5 gallon pot in Happy Frog. I have minerals and plant food and all that but haven't used it yet.
    My question is why are these leaves turning lighter green? The plants sit about 2" away from 2 200W CFLs that I think only actually use 65W.
    Thanks
     

    Attached Files:

  13. Classic nutrient lockout . Your runoff should be a red flag right away. If you PH at 5.8 the runoff should only be slightly higher. Runoff color should be almost clear to VERY light yellow/orange/brown/whatever you want to call it. But pretty much clear. This is the basic rule:

    PH much higher than you want it to be - high salt buildup in medium prevents nutrients from being absorbed by plants.

    PH much lower than it should be - bacteria or high acidity from STRONG nutrient mixes and/or overzealous use of PH down. This means either your reservoir or growing medium is verging on toxic for the plant and pythium will most likely be right around the corner.

    Solution - Flush plant medium with x3 volume of water or water-only for several days. Observe new growth first before switching to nutrients again. After recovery, water with 1/4 strength nutrients. Also remember that 'soiless mixes' and potting soils alike come packed with nutrients already, so you should be doing 1/4 strength anyways. Never go above 1/2 strength of what bottle suggests but always err more towards 1/3 strength max.




     
  14. the twisted leaves and pale color brings to mind a Zinc deficiency ,,,,,,,mac


     
  15. #15 Laurie_keets, Nov 17, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 17, 2015
    Hi guys. Having a little bit of concern with my plants. Some Info on my plants. They are second generation seeds from plants I grew last year, strain unknown. The plants are 7 1/2 weeks old. The 2 smallest plants are 8cm tall (3 inches) and the 2 tallest plants are about 11cm (4 inches) the taller ones have some brownish spots forming on some leaves and the lower leaves are yellowing. stems are purple. soil has been pH tested and is neutral. The soil used is a soil mix suited for tomatos. I gave them a light dose of seasol a couple of days ago. I'm a bit concerned as they are quite small for plants that are 7 weeks old. Plants are growing out doors.
    Plant 1 picture
    [​IMG]
    http://imgur.com/gGlsiTY"]http://imgur.com/gGlsiTY
    [/url]
    plant 2 http://imgur.com/wtEhm3C"]http://imgur.com/wtEhm3C...]
    plant

    number 3 http://imgur.com/u8LzA3U


     
  16. #16 HipHopaddix, Nov 17, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 17, 2015
    Yo GC professors, I'm back again with another problem similar too my previous post. As of now I have one Trans-Siberian and one Northern Lights Blueberry both AutoFem and are just under two months old. Before I go too far, let me start at the beginning. When I popped these seeds the Trans-Siberian was such a nice vibrant green and the Northern Lights Blueberry was a little on the lighter side but still green. Now my Trans-Siberian is a lot closer too lime green but my Norhter Lights Blueberry is a very bright lime green or even yellow. Also the Trans-Siberian also has some rust like spots on the yellowing leaves. I'm beginning too worrying because I can pinpoint one symptom of yellowing to an N def but I've never seems the rust spots accompanying the yellowing. The yellowing seems too start with the oldest leaves and also the stems of the oldest leaves are dark red maybe even purple. I'll try and get some whole plant pictures tonight when my HPS shuts off, but the leaf on the right below is off the Northern Lights Blueberry and the left is off the Trans-Siberian. When I fed my plants a few days ago I feed them at 550 ppm and when I was reading my bottle of nutes I realized I've never shaken any of my liquid ferts...like ever, could it be my rookie mistake of skimming all the water off the top of all the liquid fert bottles and they just haven't been getting the correct homogenous mixture of the nutes? Let me know what you guys think, I've also been thinking I'm P and K def as well but I'm honestly gonna flush if I can't find a definitive solution soon. Thanks fellas.
    Hiphopaddix out


    SKI.THE.EAST
     

    Attached Files:

Share This Page