This guy is one of my favorite RC youtubers. Check out what a 6s battery can do in an electric. This is 6 years ago. Spoiler alert. Those tires explode.
I took some pics of my sc5m with the b5m body and two wings like I've been running it. Also a shot of the battery tray mod and inline electronics. This thing handles like a beast like this. It outhandles the standard stadium truck. It's made to have that heavy sc body on top. With the buggy and two wings it feels like a lambo that gets offroad traction. It's a chore to keep the ball diff and slipper adjusted right with all the torque. I'm probably going to order a gear diff. The other vehicle is my traxxas stampede with a rustler chassis and a proline body. It also has a slash rear bumper along with aftermarket wheels/tires. It's running a reedy esc with a 3000kv brushless reedy instead of the brushed motor it came with. I've clocked it at 30mph with an iphone. It could go plenty faster but I have it geared for power so it doesn't get burned up because the 10 year old drives it. We painted it together.
It might be a jconcepts body on the stampede. I can't remember who made it. It's pretty nice though. Still have the original. I cut apart a decal I have from the rustler so my original stampede body says stampler. I called it that because of the rustler chassis. The rustler handles like a dream compared to the standard traxxas stampede which is a wheelie and rollover machine. The vehicles are identical except the steering parts, chassis and shock towers. I think it cost me about $20 to do the rustler chassis mod because I never replaced the shock towers. I just modded them. I only bought the rustler chassis and the steering parts from ebay. RPM front bumper and RPM rear bumper from a slash on that stampler.
Imo tboneshuffles you need a width kit on your pede. I went with that plus full front offset rims and roll overs are hard to come by now plus the suspension picks up too. Personally Something traxxas should add to there 90's production model other than power plants. The only stock parts are the transmission now adays on my stampede every part has been changed out and I have to say it's everything a 2wd monster truck should be.
Just because nitro isn't as big Just because nitro isn't as big in your area does not mean it's dying bro. Not even close. And if your nitros were unreliable that's on you or junk parts. Mine are very reliable because I take care of my stuff and dont buy junk. And if domething does happen to guys like me thats half the fun. I tear down full size motors just for something to do. Wrenching is a great hobby i really enjoy. Plugging in a baterry isnt the same. So if I continue to post nitros on here please don't get but hurt and unecessarly go off about how they're obsolete.....they're not even close. I could go on about how electrics are for lazy people that arent smart enough for nitros but I don't because I like both. So can we just keep this thread about rcs without all your uneccessary bashing and straight up coming off as a douche. Just because I enjoy an aspect of rc that you don't doesn't mean you need to cry about it anytime I post something nitro related. I see it all the time nitro guys bashing electric, electric bashing nitro. It's just like the endless battle of chevy vs ford. Who cares as long as you enjoy what you do. Nitro isn't going anywhere. It's alive and strong all over. Battery is growing but that's not the end of nitro. It's like those 200mph+ nitros after you daid electric was faster , you obviously don't know everything. I can't find anything on 200+ electric yet nitro had comps for such dpded.I wish I could though that would be awesome to see a brushless that fast. I run both types of rcs because I like both types. Batteries are alot more convenient for sure and that is a great selling point and appeals to alot of people that don't have that gear head mentality. Doesn't mean nitro is going away. There will always be enough of us around to keep it alive.
Okay. I have no idea why you get so offended but whatever. I could care less if you post nitro stuff. I like nitros. I don't remember the last time I even saw one. I seriously haven't seen anyone driving around a nitro RC in years other then if I visit a track when I'm traveling. Battery isn't even growing. I would say that in all RC car racing is shrinking a little as a whole in the US. It's definitely not as popular as even when I was a kid. People are all about drones now and VR. The popularity in RC racing right now is really growing in Europe and Asia. The newest cars/trucks have models specifically made for carpet racing because that's what's more popular in europe. The Team Associated new B6 has a carpet edition. People really like carpet tracks because they're more competitive. There's more then one good line on a track and conditions are more consistent. In dirt conditions can vary like a mofo and you always get grooves that become the fastest lines then it gets very hard to pass people sometimes. I didn't mean that electric has the top speed record compared to nitro. I just meant on average they're faster now days if you want them to be for just your mid range cost vehicles. I'm not even sure about that. There's probably electrics that can go just as fast if you look around at youtube. People doing crazy shit and it's not like the motors aren't powerful enough. I can't even buy nitro fuel here. I would have to get it shipped and it's far from cheap or easy to get someone to ship.
The Pede is alright once you get used to how it handles. The problem is I bought one kid a pede and one kid a rustler. The rustler smokes the pede around a track. It's basically the exact same car with a lower profile more aerodynamic body and a lower center of gravity chassis. It was much cheaper for me to just grab a plastic rustler chassis and used steering parts from ebay then replace all the parts. Those proline wheels/tires make for much better handling then those stock hockey pucks it comes with. The pede out of the box with stock tires is almost undrivable as far as any kind of race. It's fun yeah but stock it does handle like dog crap.
Ya the bumpsteer is something problematic. Man I'm going to have to convert back to the stampede. All's I need are new titanium camber rods and a set of strc locking hinge pins.( Never run without a bumper) my "rustler" stampede. 2.2" trenchers over 2.8" rims. The 3800kv 4pole motor just chews them up unlike the 2.8" trenchers, but the truck is pridictible like a mustang with buggered hinge pins you'll be going and all the sudden she will pull hard to one side
hey t bone how is your resume for broken front stub shafts? I've bent 2 and sheared 2 (1/2" aluminum dug out chassis) I wrecked one time in this setup I literally broke the whole front corner of the rc. the only thing that made was the hinge pins and maybe the shock mount. it was bloody glorious though. the tires on the stampede XL were hard and the weight of the aluminum chassis allowed for some mad drifting to happen. I was doing full speed drifts drifting around the street corner. ended up sliding out further and right at that moment when your flooring it just about to get off the power to exit the drift and the rear end tapped the curb. the front tire connected and the rest was shattered, and bent, into history as the truck violently spun circles away front the curb.
I like RPM stuff for replacing broken suspension. I know you scoffed at them earlier but I've only ever broken one RPM item and it was a front bumper. Those go out eventually. They make ridiculously tough parts. When you say stub shaft do you mean the tie rods? I hear that the aftermarket traxxas metal ones are great. They come in blue and a bunch of colors. I haven't replaced mine yet because the stock parts are still working great. The only thing I've broken on both the rustler and the stampede is the front steering knuckle on only one car and my middle boy drives the rustler like a psycho. His has a 4600kv 4 pole and probably easily does 50+ with it's current gearing. I added the wheelie bar to it. The slash bumper on the stampede pretty much functions as a wheelie bar.
I've caught him trying to jump the thing at near full speed and I was like "WTF are you doing?" It's not a lets see how high in the air we can launch this thing until it breaks contest.
The main thing that happens with the stock stampede is if you're on the throttle it won't turn. It's too top heavy. As soon as you give it power there's no weight on the front wheels. The stock tires have little traction so it will just continue to go straight until you let off the throttle. Then it turns. Driving a stock stampede is a dance between letting off the throttle so you can turn and trying to go fast.
Hmm ya with the stock tires, but never had stock talons, are light stick on a meaty set of trenchers and it'll help. Oddly enough though I find the rustler pushes like a mofo but I got narrow tires up front so that could be why. Or go XL with a slash chassis and a 1/8th scale mt body and pushing won't be a problem lol
If I was looking for a new car which I'm probably not but I would love to pick up one of these. Team Associated RC8.2e RS. 4WD 1/8th scale buddy. They're pretty insane for an RTR. I spent significantly more on my SC5m by the time I bought motor/tires/wheels/servo/radio/battery. Team Associated RC 8.2e RS 1/8 Brushless RTR Buggy [ASC80908C] | Cars & Trucks
Rpm is good for a arms and bumpers the only things I scoff at is there caster blocks are a scam that's the last place you want their plastic, aluminum is good cure all, and even stoçk is better then rpm in that area. And stay clear the fuck away from there transmission too. It's a really good concept but there plastic doesn't hold worth a dam. so the toe blocks hollow out in 2 runs flat giving the truck 20 degrees of toe in/out. they designed it to fit into the slash chassis as the stampede and rustler chassis have slightly narrower shock tower mounts by a couple thousandth of a inch so the tranny needs cutting to fit in properly along with a need for shorter screws for those modles. I tried fixing the toe blocks on their transmission to hold them true. I used m4 lock nuts, thread locker, ca glue and still couldn't get the blocks to hold true. The only way rpm could fix that is if they made a 1 piece toe block instead of two separate ones. Or down grade to a brushed motor so there isn't any real torque being applied to the blocks, but what fun is that? As for the traxxas upgrade links they're aluminum and only good for show. The steel vxl model links is what you want and they still bend. I upgraded to Lunsford titanium links and they will take some insane abuse and lunsford carries a bend it we will replace it warranty. So far I have only 1 link bend on me. What I meant by stub shaft is the front axles that the wheels bolt to.
don't know a ton abut rc cars, but I have a team losi mini t that's a hell of a lot of fun. eats up gearboxes though. My favorite rc car I ever had was a really high end electric rc lamorghini diablo from the mid 80's that I got at a garage sale. That thing just looked great. It seemed really fast for the time, even in the late 90's and 2000's when I was playing with it. unfortunately, it eventually gave up the ghost and I couldn't find any replacement parts.
Awh man i had a ecx smash. Horizon hobbys revived the mini t for the ecx line. Little pos it was. They used threaded screws on every pivot, the truck lasted a month before it got real sloppy and the tires bald. But it was a tought as fucking nails. I tried to break it and I couldn't. I actually wish I didn't sell it as I later found out I could use the traxxas 1/16 revo rod ends and cut m3 screws solving the insane wheel slop.
What I've always heard is that most times when you go to aluminum for a part you transfer the pressure to the next part and that's what breaks instead. If you get aluminum caster blocks then every time you wreck the front wheel it's going to bend the pin that holds it in and probably break the bearing carrier/spindle instead. If you replace everything with metal then when you wreck it bends out of alignment instead of breaking then it performs like shit. It's a trade off. I think aluminum is good for the bearing carriers front and back but I don't like going further then that. The Traxxas trucks are so tough that if you break something you probably hit really hard and should be expecting to replace at least a few small parts.
Ya exactly nor does one want a rubber caster block as the pins bend so easily. As for the aluminum caster being bad and transferring force I don't find one negative at all there. With plastic that wheel is coming right off no arguing that. But with aluminum the truck is going to bounce off it. Or at worse bend a camber rod or steering rod but we are talking big beefy plastic here. It's best to have rpm bearing carrier mated to an aluminum caster block then the block to a plastic a arm then the arm to an aluminum bulkhead. That seems to be the best setup period. If you want to do some digging on the traxxas forums in the stampede section look for absoloot he's done more then a couple stampede builds and outlines part selection perfectly. Also diggerpede has a 8th scale stretched stampede build. All those guys ragged hard on their rigs. Above all though the best upgrade one can get is a rpm slash front bumper. That thing saves money by catching almost everything