Never ever go rpm for your caster blocks That's an area that you want to be aluminum, even stock is better then rpm.
Aluminum just transfers the breakage to the next part in line. It's good for the bearing carriers. The RPM plastic is very breakage resistant. You can't break their a arms. You can twist them over 90 degrees and they snap back. Not the best for precision racing but great for avoiding breakage.
Indeed. Sept the caster blocks are a 90's design made around brushed NiMH power. Until I went to aluminum blocks I couldn't count how many king pins I turned into pretzels. my rear setup I have rpm arms in with the tie rods rear mounted to accomodate the GTR 4x4 shocks. If the truck bottoms out the a arm twists. I find about 80% of why the rear shocks bend is cuase the rear tie hit them and having them mount to the rear of the axle carrier aleaves that. But I don't think it would do well bashing since the tie rod is at enough of an angle that if the wheel got hit from the topic think the shock tower mount would bust
My traxxas rigs are animals. They never break. I've only broken one castor block on two vehicles in a year and a half and my one boy drives like he's insane. He has a castle 4600 4pole in a rustler. It may be faster then mine.
Yee bud I got the 3800kv with mmp on 2s. What gearing are you running? I think I threw on 23/76 48p. Back when I had the stamped chassis in I was running 32p but as to what gearing that was atleast a year ago I'd rather have 2.8" trenchers on again to put the power to the road as the 2.2" rear buggy trenchers wrapped on 2.8's aren't taking anything.... To much power, or the roads to cold. Plus the ballooning of the 2.8s gave me a real good top speed maybe bout 60kmh
I am grabbing a used emaxx today that comes with 4 traxxas batteries, two 2s and two 3s but doesn't come with a charger. It seems the easy way to go is the traxxas ez dual, but what would you recommend and why?
@NorseMythology Man sorry to say I've been out of the charger game for a couple of years as I dropped $400 on the crem a la creme, but in those couple of years traxxas has gone anti competitive with there power systems by pulling all there third party patents on their battery connectors so they are the sole sellers.( No other company is allowed to sell there batteries with a TRX connecter) Basically traxxas wants their customers to to only buy traxxas chargers and batteries. Wich in unfortunate cuase both there batteries ( over priced by a good $20, and less than equal in quality) and chargers ( fixed chemistry and relative low charge current) aren't all that. As for a charger look for something over $150 as to avoid quality issues and protect your batteries as some lower budget chargers over volt and could potentially kill a lipo, in extreme cases make them vent... Like we're talking a good 3 to 4 foot flame shooting out at over 700 degrees. You want something that will do a slew of battery chemistries as the market is changing from the dead NiMH current lipo to HV, high voltage, lipo. Aswell look at the total wattage most chargers razel dazel you with wattage and cell count, when in honesty it's the current your looking for to charge your battery. As with an e maxx that runs two batteries try looking for a dual port or pickup a parellel charging harness ( for battery and balance ports) or board to charge two at once. And always balance charge your batteries. The power lab 8x2 2688 watts of charging capability nice thing about this is you can get updates for any battery chemistry you want from the manufacturer and can charge at 40amp per port no matter what cell count you have. Where as other chargers are quight limited claiming an awesome charge current but fall flat on there feet when the total wattage runs out
I have an old a Team Losi stadium truck. It was super fun and way too fast for my steering skills. I'd break something about every third time I took it out. I bought it used and it had already been modded some. Now it just sits with a broken steering arm or something.
Burned through two gears already... I better read up on what I am doin wrong. Holy shot this thing is fast with 6S Lipo.
what gears are you talking about? hate to break it to you but the e maxx diffs aren't made to handle 6s lipo. if they are a continus problem check out fastlanemachining.com they have enclosed bulkheads with proper 8th scale diffs that are designed to put the power down... at a cost. I remember reading up on the e-rveos and people have dropped 300 and more on diff upgrades per diff and they still don't hold up. traxxas really dropped the ball when designing these things.... using 1/10th scale diffs
The spur gear I believe. Ill have to upgrade, irk if my bearing is bad or what happened... Well see for yourself, something got too hot
Ya your slipper clutch is to lose. Classic sign. If I remember right the pressure nut should be backed out a ¼-⅝ turn from tight. But if the pads are glazed (easily happens) then I'd go maybe an ⅛-¼ turn from tight. Does it sound like it's squealing. Like when you're hard on the throttle is there a high pitch "Reeeeee". For the most part "upgrading" your spur gear isn't necessary ( as the least expensive fail safe in the drivetrain) and a Harden steel gear requires a hardened pinion too. It may be more beneficial to have Xtra long aluminum pads as it allows for a bigger tuning window and they don't glaze over like the stock pads do
Yep, got a new gear and set the gap properly and it is going great. Before it wouldn't pop a wheelie, now I know why.
I dont claim much tbh. I'm certainly not rich, but again I guess it relative. I did buy a land rover discovery last week to go green laning and ragging it around in fields. So yeh totally get its all about the fun, I'm currently after a LR defender too after smashing my jeep up. I got bored of RC when I was like 17, but its great for the kids like you say.
I have a question. I have 2 2s traxxas lipo and 2 3s traxxas lipo and a ez peak dual charger. So my question is, is it safe to charge them whenever? I have found the batteries last plenty long and I haven't run them to the point where they lose performance. Is it okay to charge them if they are only, say, 50% discharged? Or is there a point where they shouldn't be discharged beyond? It seems like traxxas makes their stuff idiot proof so I assume I don't need to worry too much, but those things aren't cheap and are potentially dangerous so I would like to know for sure.
Rcs like these are great for adults too. Not sure what green laning is....sounds environmental....Im in the process of buying another Chevy Duramax ..nothing environmental about that
It's safe to charge from what ever( unlike NiMH and nicad where they developed a memory). I have 8200mah packs for my summit and there's no way I'm driving it for 4hrs to drain them. I usually get to storage voltage by the time I'm tired Storage the cells should be kept at 3.85volts per cell, discharge the cells shouldn't be below 3.2-3.3volts per cell to avoid damaging them. And full charge is 4.2v per cell max unless it's a HV pack
LOL not exactly environmental. 10,20,30 + people racing Land Rovers down 'green lanes' (countryside) then chasing each other off road. Its great fun, and british police are not exactly set up to deal with it (or care). That chevy looks sick, right up my street - dont get many of those kind of cars over here - mostly jap versions. I was looking at a ford ranger but decided to go with the defender now they are making them again. It wont be shiny for very long long. I do miss that jeep though, 3 tonne but it moved like shit off a stick.
Accidently blasted a curb and broke my axle carrier, skid plate and probably my front diff. This shut is annoying but I can't be mad at anyone but myself lol.
ya reminds me of the last curb wreck I had..... I eight scaled my 2wd stampede 8th scale tires and shell. and ways I could do power drifts with it i'd run into a corner tap the breaks into an oversteer and gun it and leave rubber on the black top. I was getting pretty good at it then the last drift I was gunning it and I forget if the rear taped the curb or the rear got traction sending me int a curb. but man I was killing it then boom right into the curb . I bent the 5mm stub shaft, sheared the camber rod, bent the steering rod, fucked the aluminum caster block, cracked and tore the a arm out of the bulk head, bent a shock shaft. and split a rpm revolver 3.2"rim. fucking creamed the corner out of existence I did. which for its size it shouldn't of done that.... but my custom chassis weighted the truck down a far couple pounds so it had a lot of inertia. yup same car as first posted just a different chassis