R/O water filter question's

Discussion in 'Hydroponic Growing' started by igotagun, Feb 25, 2011.

  1. just buy a regular ro system they are not hard to install or uninstall. they are easy to take out. just get one that has atleast a 1:3 waste ratio. otherwise you are wasting to much water
     
  2. it says nothing about wast water, that is info u need, when shopping for one make sure it has a check valve to insure no waste water is flowing when the unit is not in use, with out a check vale the unit will run 24/7 and continue to send wast water down the drain even if u are not using the unit, or ur tank is full (if u have a vessel or tank)

    0ppm is not necessary, as long as ur RO unit produces 20ppm or less ur good, DI resin is expensive, although useful if ur on well water where arsenic or other dangerous heavy metals are present in ur water table.
    DI resin is usually used for autoclaves, or other applications where extreme purity is needed, not so much for plants nutrient solutions

    also make sure u have a high flow unit, 100+ gallon a day unit depending on how much water is used throughout a week, the last garden i built uses a 300gal a day unit
     
  3. also there is no such thing as a 1:1 ratio with RO's alot of them claim they are but when put to the test they fail, the only way to get close to 1:1 is with a check valve, this cuts down the average product water vs waste water being created throughout the units life
     
  4. #7 janemba, Mar 1, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 1, 2011
    those 2400gal, msp is over $25,000... my brother owns a water purification company.
    trust me when i say there is no such thing as a true 1:1 ratio unit.

    in fact we tried our hand at making a zero waste high purity water purification unit, it was a pressure driven system, meaning what pressure u feed the unit ur product water was at approx 10% reduction in Psi.
    we ran it into a bulk sediment filter then a fine sediment filter at 5 microns, then to a custom scale reduction filter, then two 7.5lb KDF filters then two 10" x30" brine tanks filled with DI resin...

    we had zero waste water, and out going ppm was at .5 but the unit could only do 3000gal of water before KDF and DI filter replacement
     

  5. Credibility most definitely established here. What do you recommend for the best waste-to-cost ratio? I am interested in possibly buying another unit if I can find a good one for under $300 preferably. If that's too much to ask I will just stick with ye ole wasteful :(
     
  6. I'd like to keep up to date with this thread.

    I use RO water for my hydro so bought a small GE RO filter. 2.5 gallon res, believe it says 2 g ph or something not sure. Perfect for my household water needs and my reservoirs, filled with 6 g apiece. The waste water I bucket to my washing machine.

    I was going to buy a pump to increase it's efficiency but in the near future, I'm going to be feeding 12+ bubble buckets from 2 res, and need water for my veg/clone room.

    I may have to get a bigger one, and definitely more efficient.

    Side note, a RO filter really makes you realize how much water youcwastw on a daily basis when you use it to fill the washing Machine, water house plants, etc...
     
  7. we use proline, just because the distribution hub that we get our parts sock this unit.
    we use the 3 stage but took off the pre stage carbon filter and swaped it with a KDF filter and swapped out the 50GPD (gallon per day) membrane to a 300GPD.

    the 300 GPD RO is inline with a 50 psi booster pump, 40 psi pressure switch.
    and came with a solenoid shut off on waste water line prevents system from wasting water.
    Uses 50/5 micron depth sediment pre filter and KDF-55/GAC (GAC is carbon) filter to remove sediments, toxic metals , scale, chlorine, free chlorine, and destroy organisms in the water before entering the TFC membranes.

    A 120 gallon food grade UV resistant tank stores water and a 60 PSI pump with pressure switch delivers water anywhere we want.

    the system i believe is a 1:3 ratio, but by adding the solenoid shut off valve, ur damn near close to 1:1, also lower ppm going in means ur membrane has to work less creating less waste.

    so when buying a unit make sure it has a sufficient membrane for ur weekly use, a solenoid shut off valve, 50/5 micron sediment filter (the 50 will get out larger extending the life of the 5, its one filter duel mesh) KDF and DI filters are not necessary but they will either add life to ur membrane, enhance membrane production, or give u 0ppm product water. but carbon filters are a must, a 4 stage will come with pre and post carbon filters.
    4-7 stage RO units are for drinking, 3 stages are for aquariums and plants, but ur tap/ well water may have things in it requiring additional stages
     
  8. yeah u can collect waste water and water ur lawn or out side plants
     



  9. How about

    Vertex Puratek Deluxe 100 or 200 GPD RO/DI SYSTEM - eBay (item 150459106663 end time Mar-19-11 08:42:25 PDT)
     
  10. thats pretty sick, look it up see if it has a shut of valve, it may be to much flash, it has a DI filter so u will get 0ppm product water, and there is an in/out ppm meter cool but they break.
    has a booster pump to increase membrane performance, it says its 1:1.5

    i couldn't tell u if it can actually do 1:1.
    the merlin claims it was 1:1 but independent test show it isnt
     

  11. Says, "Back-pressure shut off solenoid for reservoir applications..."

    That sound right?
     
  12. yeah, turns water off when unit is not producing water, other wise waste water will be sent down the drain 24/7
     

  13. Cool, this looks like it will probably be my new unit. +rep for days, broski! :hello:
     

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